Topic: Help: Kodak Tri-X 400 developing.

[MiguelCampano]

Hello everyone,

For some reason I have been experiencing some difficulties while developing some rolls of Kodak TX 400... This has happened with the last 5 out of 6 rolls:


flowers by Miguel Campano, on Flickr

poste by Miguel Campano, on Flickr

As you can see, it obviously didn't develop well. My assumption was that perhaps it lacked developing time, so I adjust it by 30 seconds in one, then even a full 2 minutes in other. I played with the dilutions so I went from 1:14 to 1:9 using Ilfosol 3 and nothing. The fixer, Ilford Rapid Fixer, changed the dilution as well to no avail. Water temperature and everything else is as usual, and I've followed the Dev Chart data for the film/developer.

In contrast, using the same developer and time I've been using since the beginning, this came out from another roll of TX 400:


Primas by Miguel Campano, on Flickr


cat by Miguel Campano, on Flickr

So... Could it be that my developer is losing strength? If so, how come I've developed other types of rolls without an issue? Is it the time of developing, or perhaps the time I leave the fixer on? A bad batch of emulsion?

Anyone else with a problem like this?

[Sandeha Lynch]

If your developer concentrate starts out clear when opened, as many do, then you can take note of the colour change as it ages and oxidises.  I just threw out a quarter bottle of Ilford DDX because it had gone yellow.  If it starts to yellow at all then it's getting risky.

Otherwise, you obviously did well on the last two.  Any chance your dev temperature is not consistent or that you have a light leak in your tank?  You'd notice the leakage probably so I'd go with stale developer.  Do you have any left to check?

[Indofunk]

First of all, I love the way that first picture came out. I'd call it an "undocumented feature" instead of a problem

The second shot shows signs of bromide drag (that's the banding pattern of alternate light and dark spots on the left side of the shot). That indicates insufficient agitation to me.

Did you develop the last 2 shots with the same developer at around the same time? In that case, it's probably not stale developer, although like Sandeha that was my first thought. Are you reusing developer or using it as a one-shot (mix up a working solution from the bottle of stock, use it on one roll, and throw it away)? I know HC110 is a one-shot developer, not sure about Ilfosol.

Is this in-date Tri-X or expired? Anything else that was different about the roll that came out and the rolls that didn't?

[MiguelCampano]

Same developer. I bought a 1L bottle of Ilfosol 3 and opened it 2 weeks ago... It's still very clear, almost imperceptible in the water.

I've developed other rolls/brands with it and no issues. Perhaps it's a matter of being more careful with the temperature/water and give it more agitation. Another thing that comes to mind is that sometimes the plastic reel of the Paterson system won't load up properly when wet, since I only have one and reuse it without proper drying, thus making the film sometimes a bit loose when wrapped and I'm assuming that somehow it can lead to uneven development.

[SLVR]

how fresh is your fixer?

When you pull out the film does the film have a slightly milky tint to it?

[MiguelCampano]

how fresh is your fixer?

When you pull out the film does the film have a slightly milky tint to it?

Yes!

I'd say that my fixer is around... 1 month old? Ilford Rapid Fixer. The milky tint only happens on these Kodak rolls, and as soon as I pull it out I can tell right away that something isn't right...

[Sandeha Lynch]

Plastic reels need to be dry, and squeaky clean.  They'll stay clean as long as you never let any soap get near them, or Photoflo for that matter.

Don't dry them with a hair dryer.  I know how tempting that is/was.  But don't.

Make the effort to keep your dev temp consistent (within a degree either way).  Agitation is personal - for example, I go for 3 gentle turns and swirls every minute or two on an eight minute dev.

[SLVR]

You're underfixing. Replenish your fixer.

Problem solved.

You may be able to save these rolls by refixing them also.

[cs1]

I agree with SLVR that it might be a fixer issue. Have you tried cutting off a part of the film leader before spooling the rest of the film onto the developing tank's spool? When you get to the fixing part you can prepare enough fixer so that you have some left after filling the developing tank. You can then put the snippet of film into the rest of the fixer after pouring the proper amount into the developing tank. Measure the time "t" until the snippet looks clear and leave the film in the fixer for "t * 2". If there're any issues with the fixer you can use the snippet as an indicator.

Edit: Oops, SLVR was quicker. Maybe you will still find the part with the snippet helpful.

[MiguelCampano]

You're underfixing. Replenish your fixer.

Problem solved.

You may be able to save these rolls by refixing them also.

I'll try refixing them now and see what comes out of it!

Thank you everyone for your help!

[Indofunk]

Get some hypo-check. Add one drop of it to your fixer, and if you see a white precipitate, discard the fixer.

[SLVR]

^ sounds expensive. Usually I just do a clip test with the leader to see if my fixing time is 5min or less. If the clearing time is more than 2.5min I just mix up a fresh batch.

Just drop the cut off leader into your beaker of fixer before you start developing to test the clearing time. FREE! 

[Indofunk]

I paid $5.50 for a .75oz bottle in 2013 (Freestyle stopped selling it, otherwise I would've linked to it) and it's still more than half full.

[Francois]

I still have a bottle I found in a garage sale years ago... but I still prefer the clip test.
I just soak the piece until I can see a line starting to form (I hold it with my fingers) and then drop the whole thing in the fixer and start timing. Then fix for about double that...

[MiguelCampano]

Yep, problem solved! It was the fixing time. I increased by 2 minutes and voila

Thank you all!