Topic: I just picked up...

[Francois]

General question to the very knowledgeable contributors to the forum about the life of camera electronics: do they generally wear out due to constant use, or do electronics components age regardless of use?

It depends a lot on which component fails.

Chips mostly fail from static electricity discharges or heat. They're also voltage sensitive so if the camera uses a 6v battery but the chips are designed to run on 3v, if anything fails in the step-down circuit it's bye-bye chip. In the great north, it's static that kills almost all electronic stuff since the place gets to be very dry in the winter.

Electrolytic capacitors are also notorious for failing. In the 90's there was a lot of them that were made using a contaminated electrolyte that caused them to fail prematurely. But even well made ones don't always age well and get replaced in every vintage computer worth saving. They tend to expand in their container and spill corrosive fluid everywhere. Just age makes these go bad. And since they are often part of a voltage regulation system, when they fail they can cause some serious damage

LCD screens can go bad, but I don't know why. At home we have two P-touch machines that were bought at the same time. One of them has a failing screen and the other one is still going strong even if it gets more usage.

Solder joints can go bad if they weren't made properly.

Then, there's general corrosion that can eat-up the traces in no time and cut the power.

As you can see, plenty of things to go wrong there.

[Pete_R]

I've just asked for a shipping quote to get a print version of the service manual. $18 + shipping is not too bad. If I manage to get it I can scan it for anyone interested here on the forum.

Is that from photobooksonline.com (goodygifts on ebay)? The postage will be more than the manual. I've bought from them in the past but the postage makes it expensive.

By the way, are you able to service the Yashica FX-2?

Not one I've worked on before and I don't have a repair manual for it but it depends on what the problem is. Send me an email if you want to discuss. Email address is on my website.

[zapsnaps]

Thank you Francois & Bryan for your thoughts on the ageing of electronic components. If cameras can age that quickly in a display case, no wonder my face looks so old exposed to the elements.

[rmd]

Yashica FX2:

This any use ?

https://learncamerarepair.com/downloads/pdf/Yashica-FX2-Parts.pdf

[Pete_R]

Yashica FX2:

This any use ?

https://learncamerarepair.com/downloads/pdf/Yashica-FX2-Parts.pdf

Thanks but I do have that. In fact, I suspect learncamerarepair got it from me as they took copies of most of my manuals and stuck them on their website without any sort of attribution. Even after I pointed out the time and cost I had invested in the manuals and asked them to, at least, mention where they got them from, they ignored me.

[zapsnaps]

2 packs of Instax for my first shoot after lockdown ends in the UK and a really cool photobook by a photographer I've long admired - Masao Yamamoto & Small Things in Silence.

[Bryan]

Found this beauty at an estate sale, too nice to pass up.  It takes 118 film but I can use it as a one shot with sheets of 9X12 film.  Everything about this cameras condition is excellent, even the little mirror device for framing shots is clear, those things usually are losing silver after 100 years.  The lens cleaned up really nice, no haze, scratches or fungus.  the bellows are in great condition and the shutter works as it should. 

One thing I noticed is that it has two focus scales, one for film and one for plates, see photos below.  There was a 3 1/4" X 4 1/4" plate film back available for this model that had a ground glass focus screen.  I'll have to keep an eye out for that. 

Kodak 3 Autographic Special Model A by Bryan Chernick, on Flickr

[Jeff Warden]

Wow that looks new. Great rescue Bryan!

[Francois]

Depending on how much bigger than a roll of 120 the spool is, you could probably make an adapter for it.
I did that for 616 format. It took me two tries in CAD to get it right but now I have a working design that I can churn-out on the 3D printer.

[astrobeck]

Wow Bryan, that is a beauty! And the scale for plates is an extra cool feature. I didn't realize they would have one, but it makes perfect sense when you think about it.
You scored! 

[Bryan]

I let my GAS get the better of me again.  Zeiss Ikon Super Ikonta 532/16.  Now I have Super Ikontas in 4.5x6, 6x6 and 6x9.  This was a great deal considering it had a recent CLA and what I paid for it was a little more than what that cost.  This is a newer model than my others.  I think they started making them out of lead for this model.  It weighs almost a full Kilogram, it may fit in your pocket but it will pull your pants down.   

Zeiss Ikon Super Ikonta 532/16 by Bryan Chernick, on Flickr

[LEAFotography]

I let my GAS get the better of me again.  Zeiss Ikon Super Ikonta 532/16.  Now I have Super Ikontas in 4.5x6, 6x6 and 6x9.  This was a great deal considering it had a recent CLA and what I paid for it was a little more than what that cost.  This is a newer model than my others.  I think they started making them out of lead for this model.  It weighs almost a full Kilogram, it may fit in your pocket but it will pull your pants down.   

Zeiss Ikon Super Ikonta 532/16 by Bryan Chernick, on Flickr

This had me chuckling first thing this morning! Thank you

[Francois]

I can just imagine the sight

[cs1]

That's a lovely camera.

[Kai-san]

I let my GAS get the better of me again.  Zeiss Ikon Super Ikonta 532/16.  Now I have Super Ikontas in 4.5x6, 6x6 and 6x9.  This was a great deal considering it had a recent CLA and what I paid for it was a little more than what that cost.  This is a newer model than my others.  I think they started making them out of lead for this model.  It weighs almost a full Kilogram, it may fit in your pocket but it will pull your pants down.   

You should have kept a pair of those baggy pants from the 80's!

[Bryan]

I let my GAS get the better of me again.  Zeiss Ikon Super Ikonta 532/16.  Now I have Super Ikontas in 4.5x6, 6x6 and 6x9.  This was a great deal considering it had a recent CLA and what I paid for it was a little more than what that cost.  This is a newer model than my others.  I think they started making them out of lead for this model.  It weighs almost a full Kilogram, it may fit in your pocket but it will pull your pants down.   

You should have kept a pair of those baggy pants from the 80's!

I don't think Parachute pants around my ankles will improve the look much.  I think I got rid of them in the 90's. 

[Francois]

Suspenders anyone?

[Bryan]

Not sure exactly what I purchased here.  Pretty sure I got 9X12 glass plates from the FSU, expired 1976.  I'll have to figure out what speed to shoot them at and how I'm going to develop them.  I think I'll probably tray develop them in a darkroom with something like Rodinal.  I've never shot plates before, if anyone has a suggestion let me know. 

[Francois]

Never done plates before.
All I know is the the Russians used a speed rating called GoST and that it's different from the ASA/DIN of the time.

[Kai-san]

Here is an ASA / GOST conversion chart, they are almost the same:

https://rafcamera.com/info/imaging-theory/gost-asa-din

I do plates, but in an old bakelite tank made for the purpose. I suppose you could develop in a tray with the emulsion facing upwards. Stand dev. in Rodinal should do the trick, don't you think?

[Bryan]

Here is an ASA / GOST conversion chart, they are almost the same:

https://rafcamera.com/info/imaging-theory/gost-asa-din

I do plates, but in an old bakelite tank made for the purpose. I suppose you could develop in a tray with the emulsion facing upwards. Stand dev. in Rodinal should do the trick, don't you think?

Thanks for that Kai!  I assume these are GOST (ГОСТ) 130 which would convert to about ASA 145.  That's based on what I can't read on the back of the box but it gives me something to start with. 

[Francois]

Try using Google translate, it should translate it from a picture no problem.

[Bryan]

Try using Google translate, it should translate it from a picture no problem.

Google only seems to want to do it from an android phone or with an app.  I found another translator online that does it from photos, this is what I got.  If it's isochromatic I assume that means I can process it under a dark red light? 

[Bryan]

Here is an ASA / GOST conversion chart, they are almost the same:

https://rafcamera.com/info/imaging-theory/gost-asa-din

I do plates, but in an old bakelite tank made for the purpose. I suppose you could develop in a tray with the emulsion facing upwards. Stand dev. in Rodinal should do the trick, don't you think?

Rodinal worked.  I did a bracket test from ASA 50 to 3 and stand developed for an hour in Rodinal 1:100 in a tray.  It looks like somewhere around ASA 25 should work.  I was expecting it to be slower.  From left to right ASA 50, 25, 12, 6 and 3.

[Francois]

25 does seem to work like you said.
I find those little "stars" on the image a bit strange as they look like something's growing in the emulsion.

[Kai-san]

Isochromatic is the same as orthochromatic, which means you can load and process them in red light. The plates from Jason Lane can be handled in red light as well. I've shot 100 ISO Agfa plates, they are panchromatic and must be kept in the dark. I'm often surprised how long B&W films can keep their sensitivity, I've shot films that are 30 years old at box speed and they are fine. So, how many plates have you got left to shoot, Bryan? I think glass plates are just so nice, and there are no worries about flatness when you scan them. I must get out soon to shoot some plates in my Plaubel Makina IIs, there should be light enough now to use the Speed plates from Jason Lane (25 ISO).

[Bryan]

Isochromatic is the same as orthochromatic, which means you can load and process them in red light. The plates from Jason Lane can be handled in red light as well. I've shot 100 ISO Agfa plates, they are panchromatic and must be kept in the dark. I'm often surprised how long B&W films can keep their sensitivity, I've shot films that are 30 years old at box speed and they are fine. So, how many plates have you got left to shoot, Bryan? I think glass plates are just so nice, and there are no worries about flatness when you scan them. I must get out soon to shoot some plates in my Plaubel Makina IIs, there should be light enough now to use the Speed plates from Jason Lane (25 ISO).

I shot and developed one today so I have 10 left from that pack.  I may buy some from Jason Lane, his plates are actually cheaper than ordering expired plates once I figure in shipping.  I think this batch is going to be a learning experience.  I think I did my test shot through the back of the plate so that may have had an effect on the speed.  Do they put an antihalation layer on glass plates?  I'm feeling for the emulsion so I'm not sure how I messed that up.  It looks like Jason Lane puts a notch on his plates so that will help.  When you look at the test shot negative from the emulsion side it's oriented correctly rather than reversed.  The shot I did today looks a bit overexposed but it's oriented correctly.  It was shot on an overcast day and in a shaded area so not ideal conditions. 

[Kai-san]

If you have a darkroom with a red light it should be easier to identify the emulsion side. The Agfa plates were far too expensive, not buying more of those even if they are very good. The Jason Lane plates are quite affordable even with shipping to Europe.

[John Robison]

Actually bought something new. Normally, being your typical cheap guy don’t even consider buying new but was so frustrated trying to get a compact working light meter that I finally gave up and spent the $140 for a new one.
It is a Sekonic L208 Twinmate.
So far I’m happy with my purchase. It is much more sensitive than the Gossen Pilot that I had for 15 years and even the incident function seems to work well. I’d still have and use the Pilot except for a drop onto concrete and that, as they say, was that. Tried to replace it with a Pilot 2 but although pristine it was DoA.
Other than consumables, chems and film and paper this is the second new item bought in the last six months, I’m on a roll. Before this year the last new item was a tripod, about 2007.

At this rate I may be kicked out of the ‘bottom feeders club’.

[Francois]

New photo cells are definitely a lot better than the old ones.
You're definitely going to enjoy that new purchase.

[Bryan]

Purchased an Eastman Plate Tank that will hopefully make it easier to develop 9X12 glass plates.  It adjusts from 14X10 cm down to 6X9 cm. I just ordered another box of J. Lane Dry plates, the 2 ISO ones this time.   

I also bought an Ica Toska 215 plate camera for $20.00 which included a plate holder.  I think this is an early model, around 1910, they only made them up to 1914.  I don't think the seller knew how to open it, I took a chance since it's about the same cost as the plate holder by itself.  It looks rough but a little work and it will be a usable camera.  The bellows need to be glued back on but they seem to be in great condition.  The shutter works and the lens just needs a little cleaning.  It's a Doppel-Periskop 135mm f/11 lens in a Zenith shutter.  There is very little information online about this model, I think it may be kind of rare.  One nice think is it has the bellows extension so it can do closeups like my Trona and Ideal. 

[Francois]

You just have to love the indicator on that plate tank!
I know it can't be a timer so I really don't know what's the purpose of it?

[Pete_R]

Just got these from a local auction. One is in good shape but the other needs work. I've always wanted an Ikoflex.

[Francois]

Even with the peeling leather, they do look mighty good.
I just hope they don't also smell like that Argus C3 I got years ago and that I never pulled out of the garden shed (I really need to take it out of there and give it a full CLA... the rangefinder is especially stiff on this one)

[Indofunk]

Inspired by Irv's generous film giveaway, and wanting to squeeze more than 12 exposures from a 135/12 roll, I got this super cute little half frame camera that I hadn't heard of before. I present to you the Russian AGAT18:



So it does have aperture control, but the weird thing is that shutter speed is coupled with aperture. So at 2.8 to 5.6, the shutter speed is 1/60, then from 5.6 to  11 it's 1/125, and at 16 its 1/250. So, I don't honestly know what I'm doing, but for this first roll I just pretended to follow sunny 16. We'll see how it comes out.

[Bryan]

Inspired by Irv's generous film giveaway, and wanting to squeeze more than 12 exposures from a 135/12 roll, I got this super cute little half frame camera that I hadn't heard of before. I present to you the Russian AGAT18:



So it does have aperture control, but the weird thing is that shutter speed is coupled with aperture. So at 2.8 to 5.6, the shutter speed is 1/60, then from 5.6 to  11 it's 1/125, and at 16 its 1/250. So, I don't honestly know what I'm doing, but for this first roll I just pretended to follow sunny 16. We'll see how it comes out.

Interesting camera.  The old Polaroid roll film cameras were kind of like that with the shutter speed tied to the aperture.  With my 800 you just set the light value.  I guess you would just meter for the film speed to get the light value.  Each light value setting is an aperture/shutter speed.  The lower apertures are at 1/60 with higher shutter speeds as the light value increases.

[Francois]

You are sooo gonna love this one!
I've got one and it's definitely my favorite half frame of all time.
On mine I find the shutter button to be a bit finicky so I added a soft release button on it and it helps a lot.

[Indofunk]

Yeah, it's really fun, if finicky 😉 So, tell me if I'm doing this right ... I twist that inner ring (the one between the aperture adjustment and the focus) until the black line lines up with the film speed (in GOST, so basically I'm just guessing 😁). Then once the film speed is set I use either the top black line to set the cloudiness value, OR the bottom black line to set the aperture (again, just totally guessing all the time 😂). Then click? Given the variable shutter speed, I'm thinking sticking between 5.6 and 11 is probably safest if I'm thinking sunny 16. Opening wider than 5.6 will slow down the shutter speed so those stops are essentially multiple stops, and 16 is essentially 32.

[Francois]

I have one that was made for export, so I have a bit more information on it.
On mine, the sensitivity is below the lens. You just align the line with the DIN value. On top, there is a sailboat, sun, snowflake, light cloud, middle cloud, dark cloud that correspond to the aperture.
From experience, the lens is pretty much equally good at all apertures, so I use it.
The camera has variable shutter speeds they say, but listening to mine and looking at the shutter, I don't think it's the case. If it is, it's going to be one of those slow-fast deals, so not really good for most situations.

As for the GOST values, mine has a handy conversion chart on the back. Here's a scan of it

Mine also has a place for a cable release... I just put a nice fat soft release button on it to make it easier to use.
Hope this helps...

[zapsnaps]

I've got one of those! But mine has a red dial around the lens, rather than yellow. I really like half frame cameras. And with so many folk just reviewing their images on monitors these days, perhaps it's sufficient.
Although I still want a Blad X1D ii 50 - the other small camera for people on the go. Oh wait - I don't go anywhere anymore. Bring back business travel. Please! I don't have that much time left this side of retirement

[zapsnaps]

Comrades! I've just had a look at my version; it doesn't have a film speed setting! Clearly the yellow version was the bourgeois mk II iteration. I use sunny 16, cross my fingers and hope for the best. Rather like the central planning committee in the days of the USSR. But with more sun.

Mine, with the red dial has a matching red threaded shutter release and was made at the Vilejka factory. It's an 18, rather than the more popular 18k.

INDOFUNK: one thing to note, if it hasn't already occurred to you, is that unlike most half frames, which usually shoot two side-by-side portrait mode pics on a 24x46 frame, the film is loaded vertically in the 18, meaning that the default orientation is landscape!

Those crazy Russians - got to love their sense of humour.

[AJShepherd]

I've got an Agat, though I've not used it for a while as the bit in the centre of the wind wheel, the part which switches from normal mode to rewind mode, is almost impossible to turn. I think there's a fix but haven't got around to trying it yet.

One thing I found though is that the inside is very shiny black plastic which resulted in weird effects on the first film I shot as light bounced around inside. I bought a fine brush and a small tin of matt black enamel paint of the type used in model making (Humbrol was the brand I used) and that fixed that!

Really must use it again but haven't been doing much filmwasting for some time, alas!

[John Robison]

Half frame is fun, and with 35mm B&W or color approaching $10 a roll for some brands the economy is appreciated. With modern materials and some of the top tier half frames like the Olympus Pen F and it’s lenses 6x8 prints on 8x10 paper can be really smooth and crisp.

[Antonio]

Hi!

I've just got a Kodak Pony Premo no.4 ... it seems to be in good shape.
It's fitted with a Unicum shutter. I guess that the lens is a Rapid Rectilinear 6" f/8-f/128? (I cannot say because I cannot read the numbers)
Looking for 5x7 sheath for the plate holders.



Cheers!
Antonio

[Francois]

The shutter really looks good on this camera.

[Antonio]

The shutter really looks good on this camera.

Hi!
Yes :-)

¡Saludos!

[Bryan]

Hi!

I've just got a Kodak Pony Premo no.4 ... it seems to be in good shape.
It's fitted with a Unicum shutter. I guess that the lens is a Rapid Rectilinear 6" f/8-f/128? (I cannot say because I cannot read the numbers)
Looking for 5x7 sheath for the plate holders.



Cheers!
Antonio

Very nice camera Antonio!  This company sells 13X18cm film sheaths, not sure if they are compatible with 5X7 inch. 

https://alternativephotographicsupplies.com/category/large-format-photography/wkladka-negatywowa-13x18cm

I think I have three metal plate holders with film sheaths at home but I would have to measure them to see if they are 13X18cm or 5X7 inch.  Let me know if you are interested in them.  I won't be able to check the size until I get home in a few weeks. 

[ManuelL]

That is a pretty camera Antonio!
I ordered an Argentum 5x7 some time ago. They have a 1 year lead time at the moment. Hope I can photograph some 5x7 next year. 

[Kai-san]

This is a follow up of an earlier post regarding a Kiev 4 that I acquired at a nice price. As expected the selenium cell was no longer working properly and I accepted that I would have to use an external light meter. By chance I discovered that my favourite repair resource (Oleg Khalyavin in Russia) has got more than a hundred brand new selenium cells for the Kiev 4 in stock. These will also fit the Kiev 3 + the Contax rangefinders. Since the slow speeds on my Kiev were a bit sluggish I decided to send it to Oleg for service and at the same time have the selenium cell replaced. It looks pretty accurate, but I have not finished the first film yet. I thought this might be of interest for people with Kiev and Contax rangefinders.

[Bryan]

This is a follow up of an earlier post regarding a Kiev 4 that I acquired at a nice price. As expected the selenium cell was no longer working properly and I accepted that I would have to use an external light meter. By chance I discovered that my favourite repair resource (Oleg Khalyavin in Russia) has got more than a hundred brand new selenium cells for the Kiev 4 in stock. These will also fit the Kiev 3 + the Contax rangefinders. Since the slow speeds on my Kiev were a bit sluggish I decided to send it to Oleg for service and at the same time have the selenium cell replaced. It looks pretty accurate, but I have not finished the first film yet. I thought this might be of interest for people with Kiev and Contax rangefinders.

Brand new, so someone is making them specifically for that camera?  I wonder if they are making them for other cameras as well.  I have Kiev 4 with a working meter that I purchased from the Russian eBay seller fotofilmcam a few years ago.  I think it was serviced before I got it but I don't know if they put a new selenium cell in it.