What camera and lens will you be using?
Do you want to sandwich images later?
I only ask because some photographs seen in magazines are two shots sandwiched (now Photo shopped) together.
A longer exposure for the foreground such as a cityscape (30 seconds to a minute depending upon the scene)
and then a shorter exposure (250) for the Moon since it will blur and blow itself out during longer exposures.
Another trick is to use a wide angle for the scenic part, and then switch to a zoom for the Moon to make it bigger.
If this is too much fiddling about, then just use your regular lens and bracket, bracket bracket!
General tips....
I normally use ASA 100 and use 250 for a starting speed and then bracket a stop or two.
Actually I think I use 125, 60 and 30 because the sky is deceptive.
I also almost always shoot at f/4 .
My main astro camera is a clunker- Pentax k1000.
The Moon doesn't change size as it moves from just above the horizon to high in the sky.
The "Moon illusion" where it appears to be huge when it is low is just that, an illusion. We use terrestrial landmarks as a size guide and this tricks our eye into believing the Moon is much much larger.
Also, let your loaded camera adjust to the temperature outside if possible before you shoot.
I am a big fan of having everything at temp if possible for night shots.
(If it's freezing, call me. I have shot in 24 degree temps.)
Cable release and tripod too.
Don't be afraid to use the flash if there is some nearby foreground object you want to highlight.
How bright (sky glow, pollution) your sky is overall is another thing to consider if you are doing shots at dusk.
Scout the scene a night or two before show-time to get an idea of where the Moon rises.
And don't be tardy. The sky waits for no one!
I should probably write an article with tables and examples?
Becky
