Author Topic: I just made/fixed ... (Read 126496 times)

Francois · « **Reply #450 on:** May 21, 2020, 03:56:29 PM »

If he uses acrylic paint, it will also work like an adhesive if the paint seeps to the underlayer.

Bryan · « **Reply #451 on:** May 28, 2020, 05:55:22 PM »

I repurposed a few more slide carousel's, another clock and a tiki torch centerpiece, both for the back patio. I have about 37 more carousels so any ideas for them would be helpful.

Francois · « **Reply #452 on:** May 28, 2020, 09:09:36 PM »

Insect cottage?
Large lamp base?

Pete_R · « **Reply #453 on:** June 11, 2020, 06:22:11 PM »

I got one of these with too many problems to list

and did this to it

and now it works. Yay!

hookstrapped · « **Reply #454 on:** June 11, 2020, 08:21:34 PM »

Excellent!

Kai-san · « **Reply #455 on:** June 11, 2020, 08:55:44 PM »

Excellent indeed! But it looks a bit scary, did you have a repair manual or did you just make notes as you went along? I have a Petri 7S that could need the same treatment, one day I might pull myself together and get it done.

Francois · « **Reply #456 on:** June 11, 2020, 09:18:01 PM »

Those things can sometimes turn into a nightmare if you don't separate the screws properly.

I took one look at the instruction on how to take apart a Retinette and went Nope...

Pete_R · « **Reply #457 on:** June 12, 2020, 10:28:03 AM »

Quote from: Kai-san on June 11, 2020, 08:55:44 PM

Excellent indeed! But it looks a bit scary, did you have a repair manual or did you just make notes as you went along? I have a Petri 7S that could need the same treatment, one day I might pull myself together and get it done.

No manual. All the fixed lens rangefinders are generally the same construction. As long as to take a few pictures along the way. I did have an issue where all the shutter leaves just fell out but I found a picture of how they went back. Usually you can find someone who's done it before.

I did a Petri 7s once. Too long ago to remember any details but don't think there were any issues.

cs1 · « **Reply #458 on:** June 12, 2020, 08:35:59 PM »

That's a really lovely looking Konica, Peter. Good job! I have this thing for Konicas. This doesn't help.

Bryan · « **Reply #459 on:** June 17, 2020, 09:07:15 PM »

I just finished my second set of bellows. This was for a Kodak Vest Pocket Autographic Model B that I have had lying around for a while. In addition to bad bellows it's still missing a few parts but it's still usable. Sandeha saw what I was doing on the other one and sent me some fabric that he uses. His fabric is definitely thinner than what I used on the first one so I will be getting more of it.

I did a few things different on this set. Instead of gluing the tabs onto the fabric I printed the pattern on a sheet of self adhesive label paper, the full sheet type (Avery 8165). This made it a little easier but it probably won't work as well on larger bellows. I also painted the bellows with flat black acrylic paint, not sure this was really necessary though. My bellows are still far from perfect but I'm learning a little each time and some tips from Sandeha helped.

Kodak Vest Pocket Autographic Model B by Bryan Chernick, on Flickr

Bryan · « **Reply #460 on:** July 12, 2020, 12:33:24 AM »

A few years ago this Leica IIIc started giving me problems, so I wrote "shutter problem" on some masking tape and stuck it to the bottom. This weekend I decided to try to figure it out. I took some video of the shutter moving with my iPhone using the Slow Motion setting. I looked at that frame by frame and could see the first shutter curtain was bouncing back into the frame and didn't move until the second curtain pushed it on. This Leica IIIc is a bit rough and I have never sent it in for servicing. I think I bought it because of the lens that was on it. The slow speeds didn't work when I got it so I took it apart and cleaned the slow speed escapement. I used it for several rolls before it started giving me problems.

I found this manual, linked below, that talks about adjusting the shutter brake eccentric to stop the shutter bounce. The shutter brake eccentric is a small offset wheel that controls the amount of braking pressure. Not having a tool to adjust it I sharpened one of my forked screw drivers with a Dremel grinding wheel. After each adjustment I shot a slow motion video to see what was happening. Too much brake and the first shutter curtain stopped before it exited the frame. To little brake and it still bounced. It took very small adjustments to get it to where it was braking just right.

By the way, I didn't have to take the camera all the way apart to make these adjustments. Just need to take the bottom plate off that says "Stop! Nicht weiter herausziehen". While I had it apart I cleaned the shutter gears and checked the curtains for leaks. Now I need to put a test roll in and see how it does.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwjHuPnar8PqAhWKJDQIHYGjC7IQFjAGegQIAxAB&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.pentax-manuals.com%2Fmanuals%2Fservice%2Fscrew_mount_leicas.pdf&usg=AOvVaw0YTpVKOQyO2sWhZaAeWvl3&fbclid=IwAR01bi3lo8r-8gl5kSWaS7R9NZ9lJyUS9IdtUXvJAzWPigHRd1At0G4Fi8M

hookstrapped · « **Reply #461 on:** July 12, 2020, 11:21:47 AM »

Good work!

Francois · « **Reply #462 on:** July 12, 2020, 02:23:12 PM »

Good work.
Could this have been done without removing the casing?
I've got to cla my Grandpa's 1C and it scares me a bit since I never had great success repairing SLR's. Leaf shutters I'm ok with, lenses I'm ok with too, but this seems to be another ball game.

Bryan · « **Reply #463 on:** July 12, 2020, 02:30:06 PM »

Quote from: Francois on July 12, 2020, 02:23:12 PM

Good work.
Could this have been done without removing the casing?
I've got to cla my Grandpa's 1C and it scares me a bit since I never had great success repairing SLR's. Leaf shutters I'm ok with, lenses I'm ok with too, but this seems to be another ball game.

Three screws hold the bottom plate on, two on the edge shown in my photo and one in the middle of the plate. If the gears for the shutter curtain need cleaning then you have to take the casing off.

Francois · « **Reply #464 on:** July 12, 2020, 08:19:17 PM »

I guess I'll have no choice...
The shutter feels like it's running in molasses, and that camera has no slow speeds!

grit · « **Reply #465 on:** July 15, 2020, 01:00:21 AM »

Not a huge accomplishment, but I spent today replacing the light seals and the leatherette on an RB67 I bought on ebay for a song (presumably the price was low because many of the existing seals were next to gone). It came out pretty good! Working on a test roll now but I'm pretty sure I won't see any more leaks for awhile.

Out of curiosity, I also have an RZ67 that has a lot of peeling rubber. Does anyone have any ideas on how to restore it to cosmetic glory? It doesn't seem like there's anyone out there selling a prefab replacement, but I'm willing to make my own now that I'm stuck at home.

Pete_R · « **Reply #466 on:** July 15, 2020, 08:43:31 AM »

Quote from: grit on July 15, 2020, 01:00:21 AM

Out of curiosity, I also have an RZ67 that has a lot of peeling rubber. Does anyone have any ideas on how to restore it to cosmetic glory? It doesn't seem like there's anyone out there selling a prefab replacement, but I'm willing to make my own now that I'm stuck at home.

Rubber covers on SLRs I clean using IPA and/or a mild detergent and, for bad cases, I scrape them first. I wrote a bit about it here.

For resticking covers, including rubber ones, I use Gem-bond which Sandeha put me on to. Use it as a contact adhesive - coat both surfaces, leave to dry then press together. It's the only thing I've I've found that successfully sticks rubber covers.

grit · « **Reply #467 on:** July 17, 2020, 04:52:00 PM »

Good tip, thanks Pete! I'll give it a shot. Some of the material is missing, but this will at least save what I still have.

grit · « **Reply #468 on:** July 21, 2020, 04:03:18 PM »

OK, now I'm moving on to the 35mm cameras, and I have a bit of a mystery. I got an old Minolta XD-5 from my aunt's attic and I now have it cleaned and mostly working. BUT it doesn't fire unless it's in O or B mode. If I depress the shutter button in any normal mode or in X mode, the button goes down halfway but no further (as if something is blocking it). This is true both in Manual and in Aperture or Shutter Priority. The interesting part is that if I use the self-timer, it not only works fine, but also the speed is accurate (at least to my ear test)! It's got brand new batteries in it. Any idea what the problem could be?

Pete_R · « **Reply #469 on:** July 21, 2020, 05:20:17 PM »

I know nothing but Googling suggests the O and B modes are mechanical and the others are electronic so probably electronic problem.

There's some info at https://www.rangefinderforum.com/classics/forum/messages/2/27649.html?1377879428 which might be relevant.

Also a very comprehensive guide to repairing the XD-11 (aka XD-7) which is probably very similar at https://www.suaudeau.eu/memo/manuels_rep/reflexes/minolta/minolta_xd_repair_guide.pdf

hookstrapped · « **Reply #470 on:** August 02, 2020, 12:48:42 AM »

I've been interested in Zeiss Ikon Super Nettels for the past few months, but they go for $400-$800. So, no way. There was a nice looking one a while back for around $380. I was tempted but I try not to spend more than $120 on a camera, preferably no more than $40. So when I went browsing again for them one showed up in my search for $120 on Bonanza, from a guy in the UK I've bought from before when he was on Etsy. So why was it so cheap? The shutter didn't work. It just so happened I recently watched a video on YouTube where a guy fixed a stuck shutter on a Super Nettel by spraying a load of lithium grease on the gears. It worked... But more importantly for me, he showed how incredibly simple it was to disassemble the camera. Oh, and it was missing the rewind knob.

After a sojourn in LA, the camera arrived today.

Just loosen four screws on the bottom, four screws on the front holding the lens/bellows assembly to the body, and two screws holding the housing for the film canister and take-up reel and you'e ready to clean up the shutter gears. I used lighter fluid, not lithium grease.

The lighter fluid loosened things up as expected. The fast speeds -- 1000, 500, 200, 100 -- worked great. On the slower speeds, the first curtain would begin to open as you cocked the shutter, then the second curtain would close rather slowly when you fired it. Not sure what's going on so will need to do a little research. Or I could just try spraying lithium grease on it.

When I put it back together, even the fast speeds were hanging up. Hmmm. I noticed that someone jerryrigged a little wire for a missing screw. You can see it at the upper right of the last pic. I removed it (it wasn't doing anything as another screw was still in place holding that little disc which itself doesn't seem to be doing anything -- it doesn't move (famous last words).

Anyway, put it back together for now to test the fast speeds. The shutter ribbons look in great shape. The rangefinder seems to be in proper adjustment. Lens looks great. The aperture blades are clean. The lens focus was very stiff at first but working it a bit it's fine now.

EDIT: oh, I see that disc holds the spindle for the second curtain. Maybe I should look for a screw

Francois · « **Reply #471 on:** August 02, 2020, 02:46:00 PM »

I'm never a fan of spraying stuff around. The overspray always goes where you don't want it to. I like using a syringe with sewing machine oil much better.

hookstrapped · « **Reply #472 on:** August 02, 2020, 08:21:36 PM »

Well, I went scavenging through my parts camera box and pulled out some candidate screws. Found one -- from the film retaining springy piece of metal in the take-up reel chamber of a Kiev 4A. Round head instead of flat head but the perfect thread and (very short) screw length.

I also squirted it with lighter fluid again and the slow speeds work (well, 50 and 25) and the fast speeds are much snappier. Dunno why I can't even turn the speed selector to 10, 5, or B but I'm not going to sweat it. The additional slow speed mechanism kicks in at 50 so it's not that.

Before I cleaned it again, when I tested it and cocked the shutter, it squeaked. So I guess it needs oil. I have sewing machine oil but am not sure where to apply it...

Francois · « **Reply #473 on:** August 02, 2020, 09:07:27 PM »

Usually, the oil is only applied very sparingly to the pivots.
Too much oil will slow things down.
Grease is only useful for regions of high friction, high pressures, low speeds or where oil would drip everywhere.
Most camera mechanisms I've seen so far except for the focusing helix don't need it. And even then the focus needs an insanely small amount.

I tried lithium grease on some things but had to remove it because it thickened with time and made things hard to move (I put some on the focusing ring of a lens).

BernardL · « **Reply #474 on:** August 16, 2020, 10:26:56 AM »

Bought last year at photo fair this Perkeo I with Color-Skopar. Test film: focus OK. Speeds sound OK, and exposure looks OK. Issues:

bellows mis-folded in one place, and delamination of inner lining, casting a shadow at the edge of frame
double-frame prevention works OK, but not the indicator
front door needs some shaking to be persuaded to open

Considered making a new bellows, read a lot on the interweb... Then considered buying one from Sandeha Lynch. Finally settled on repairing the existing bellows. Good thing I did not try to make one: the Perkeo being the smallest of all 6x6 folders, its design is putting pressure on every millimeter in the dimensions. For instance, the bellows folds get narrower towards the body, because there is only approx 2.5mm around the image gate to glue the bellows (at least in the vertical sides; in the horizontal sides a little more, I guess because the vertical size here is constrained by size of the film spools).
Anyway. Applied liquid paper glue between the inner lining and the ribs, through the delamination gap on the rear side; then re-formed the proper folds with small metal blades and plumber's PTFE tape, left to dry, and a whiff of matte black paint inside. With the bellows taken out, time to observe and lubricate the mechanisms for struts and transmission of shutter release. Remove top plate, clean v/f, re-install loose spring of film advance indicator. Since shutter works and speeds sound OK, leave it alone. No haze on internal surfaces, just minimal dust.
Re-assembly OK. Glued the bellows with period-correct shellac glue, just because. Possibly the bellows is a slightly tighter fit than before, not sure.
A word for rangefinder-less cameras: most pictures I take I can estimate the distance with sufficient accuracy (say, beyond 2m). For the occasional picture at closer distance, I bring out my assorted Voigtlander accessory rangefinder; can even leave it on the cold shoe.
Note: the distance scale on the lens is from the lens, not the film plane (test film with focus target); seems to be the norm for this kind of camera.

Francois · « **Reply #475 on:** August 16, 2020, 03:25:47 PM »

The fun thing with folders is that they are relatively simple, which also means easy to fix.

Adam Doe · « **Reply #476 on:** September 10, 2020, 09:26:55 PM »

With the current state of things meaning way more time at home, I decided to spring for a 3D printer. I wanted to learn how to do it and I hope that it will inspire my kids to learn how to conceptualize, engineer and create. Prices have come down a great deal in the few years since last I looked into it, so after a good bit of research I purchased a Creality Ender 3 V2. My younger son and I spent a few hours putting it together, then taking it apart to put back together again the right way. Then once more... After some fiddly bed-leveling and other jargon that I have just learned we printed our first test and it came out fine. Spurred by success I decided to engineer a wall frame for packfilm prints, since i have hundreds laying about. While the packfilm cartridges themselves make cool frames with minimal tweaking, my supply of those is finite. Using a simple, online 3D design program, Tinkercad, I designed a frame. It took about seven redesigns and three test prints to get a satisfactory model. It could still use some small adjustments, but I am pleased with the result.

3D Printed Packfilm Frame by adoephoto, on Flickr

Francois · « **Reply #477 on:** September 10, 2020, 10:11:15 PM »

That's pretty neat.
Do you have white filament?
If you do you need to print at least one lithophane

Adam Doe · « **Reply #478 on:** September 11, 2020, 04:26:31 PM »

Quote from: Francois on September 10, 2020, 10:11:15 PM

That's pretty neat.
Do you have white filament?
If you do you need to print at least one lithophane

Francois, I do not have white filament. And I had to google lithophane, and now I need to get some white filament and try it. Neat stuff!

Francois · « **Reply #479 on:** September 11, 2020, 08:26:32 PM »

I printed one at the library last December and gave it mo my mom.
She was really impressed. At first when you print it, it essentially looks like nothing. But when it's done, it's really fun.
But they are very slow to print because of all the detail. I later found that they don't require any infill to stay together. And since they don't get abused, you don't need to waste filament for nothing.

Adam Doe · « **Reply #480 on:** September 12, 2020, 07:38:53 PM »

Francois,

I ordered white filament. Will post results once I've made a good one. Thanks for the idea, they look like fun.

hookstrapped · « **Reply #481 on:** September 30, 2020, 05:07:24 PM »

This is an update on my Super Nettel. After getting the shutter to fire by using naptha in the mechanisms, one of the silk ribbons holding the lateral shutter slats broke. Rather than sending it to the Contax guy (its shutter is the same as in a Contax I) who insists on rebuilding cameras completely whether they need it or not and charging accordingly, and has a 10 year waiting list (his email was quite amusing and that was the punch line), I sent it to Oleg in Russia. Got it repaired quickly at a reasonable price. All the shutter speeds working well. Took my first pics with it the past couple days and I really like the results -- particularly the combination of sharpness and the way it renders out of focus areas, and the transition between the two. Anyway, like the look of the lens, a f3.5 Tessar.

More pics
http://www.filmwasters.com/forum/index.php?topic=10142.0

Francois · « **Reply #482 on:** September 30, 2020, 08:46:29 PM »

Looks like he's a pretty good repairman.

Kai-san · « **Reply #483 on:** September 30, 2020, 09:26:39 PM »

Oleg has fixed several cameras for me, he's really good. I still have more work for him; I hate cameras that doesn't work and throwing a camera in the bin is sacrilege!

Speaking of non-working cameras, I've got a Konica Autoreflex T3 that is un-repairable (auto firing syndrome) so if any of you are looking for parts just PM me. (I probably invented a new word there, un-repairable.

)

hookstrapped · « **Reply #484 on:** September 30, 2020, 09:30:07 PM »

It's hard to find someone with the experience and willingness to replace those ribbons. There are some DIY instructions floating around that I looked at but... Nah.

Though the Contax I, II, and IIa shutters are somewhat different, they're the same basic design. I think Oleg's experience repairing Kiev rangefinders has made him the go to guy for the metal slat shutters. He said he never worked on a Super Nettel but I sent him pics and my understanding that it's the same as a Contax I (that he lists on his site as a camera he works on). Anyway, great experience. He also replaced the missing rewind knob before I even asked him about it, all for the CLA price.

Sandeha Lynch · « **Reply #485 on:** October 01, 2020, 10:35:20 AM »

If he can get something close to the original ribbon dimensions that's good. I was looking for ribbons for a Zeiss Miroflex one time and it seems nobody makes them anymore.

hookstrapped · « **Reply #486 on:** October 01, 2020, 01:54:01 PM »

If I recall correctly from the DIY info I browsed, there is a Japanese supplier that has ribbon intended to fit the postwar Contax IIa, but it seems people differ on if it is the correct size. Fedka has ribbons for the Kiev, which should work on both the prewar Contax I and II. I'm guessing Oleg has access to these ribbons.

Francois · « **Reply #487 on:** January 17, 2021, 09:07:24 PM »

I just found something really neat on Thingiverse that I printed using the 3D printer mom got me for Xmas.
They are film speed reminders that fit on the hotshoe.

Apart from the design being a bit too big (I had to scale down to 94%), it looks pretty good and should be really handy.
Here's the link for the project: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3119153

Adam Doe · « **Reply #488 on:** January 18, 2021, 06:27:14 PM »

Quote from: Francois on January 17, 2021, 09:07:24 PM

I just found something really neat on Thingiverse that I printed using the 3D printer mom got me for Xmas.
They are film speed reminders that fit on the hotshoe.

Apart from the design being a bit too big (I had to scale down to 94%), it looks pretty good and should be really handy.
Here's the link for the project: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3119153

Those would help immensely on some of my cameras! BTW, what printer did you get Francois?

Francois · « **Reply #489 on:** January 18, 2021, 08:04:40 PM »

I got an Ender 3 Pro.
I put a lot of mods on it. Some were hand printed and other ones bought. I upgraded the springs on the bed, put in an adapter for a regular sized SD card and added an Octoprint server.

Adam Doe · « **Reply #490 on:** January 18, 2021, 10:51:08 PM »

Quote from: Francois on January 18, 2021, 08:04:40 PM

I got an Ender 3 Pro.
I put a lot of mods on it. Some were hand printed and other ones bought. I upgraded the springs on the bed, put in an adapter for a regular sized SD card and added an Octoprint server.

Nice Christmas gift! I have an Ender 3 V2. I really like it. I've also upgraded the springs to those yellow ones and replaced one of the fans to make it a bit quieter. Some film photography related prints I have designed and made:

A 4x5 pinhole camera that can use standard 4x5 film holders or the polaroid holders. Please excuse the cludgy tape for mounting the shutter mechanism as it was a proof of concept. Now I just need to figure out attaching things to things in a more elegant fashion.

4x5 Pinhole Camera by adoephoto, on Flickr

Test image from 3D printed 4x5 pinhole camera

Pinhole Test by adoephoto, on Flickr

A large format lens holder for my Intrepid 4x5 camera. Another proof of concept. But it works.

4x5 Lens Holder by adoephoto, on Flickr

Francois, I took your advice, purchased some white filament and made a couple of lithophanes from my photos. Those are quite neat.

Lithophane by adoephoto, on Flickr

Lithophane Lit by adoephoto, on Flickr

Gettysburg Lithophane by adoephoto, on Flickr

And lastly another design I'm currently fiddling with, I wanted to see if I could make a splitter so that I could get two images on a Fuji packfilm print. I based the part that holds to the camera on the Polaroid UV filter for Land Cameras. This is the first version and I need to tweak the dimensions of the tabs so it holds better to the lens. I also need to make it so it works as intended. But that's the fun of 3D printing. The engineering puzzles. And I printed one of those ISO tabs that you had printed, also at 94% and it fits perfectly in my hot shoes. So thanks for posting the link to them Francois.

Land Cam Splitter and ISO Chip by adoephoto, on Flickr

Francois · « **Reply #491 on:** January 19, 2021, 01:58:43 PM »

You're welcome.
For the pinhole camera, you might want to take a look at the Pinh5ad camera by schlem on thingiverse. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:143882
It's got some neat hooks for the rubber bands.

What program do you use for modeling?
I use FreeCAD. It's very powerful. It does have a few quirks but once you get used to it it's pretty darn good.
And best of all it plays nice with Inkscape for some things.

Adam Doe · « **Reply #492 on:** January 19, 2021, 03:43:17 PM »

Quote from: Francois on January 19, 2021, 01:58:43 PM

You're welcome.
For the pinhole camera, you might want to take a look at the Pinh5ad camera by schlem on thingiverse. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:143882
It's got some neat hooks for the rubber bands.

What program do you use for modeling?
I use FreeCAD. It's very powerful. It does have a few quirks but once you get used to it it's pretty darn good.
And best of all it plays nice with Inkscape for some things.

I've been using Tinkercad, which is very basic and hosted online. I will need to learn a more complex CAD program so I can do curves, extrusions, etc.

Francois · « **Reply #493 on:** January 19, 2021, 09:38:56 PM »

Definitely got for FreeCAD.
When I first got it, I kinds gave it the dirty eye. But once I did the short tutorial it all clicked. Now, I wouldn't switch it out for anything.
And best of all, it runs on anything. I use the 0.19 Pre-release version and it's very good
https://github.com/FreeCAD/FreeCAD/releases/tag/0.19_pre

I use the Conda file like was recommended to me on their forums.

One of the things I like is that if you want to extrude some complex shapes, you can initially draw them in Inkscape, save as SVG and then directly import it into Freecad to do the extrusion. That's how I do some text and markings on my designs.

Pete_R · « **Reply #494 on:** February 07, 2021, 04:09:13 PM »

Another chop job from me. This started out as a KF-M1, a camera made by Phenix in China for MAP Camera in Japan. It had a Nikon mount and, unusually, no branding. It's a well made mechanical camera with a top speed of 1/4000. Originally designed to compete with the Nikon FM2 though probably had little impact. The same camera was available as a Kenko KF-2N or, in China, as a DN-66. I've converted it to a Contax/Yashica mount which is more appropriate to my needs.

Nikon out and Contax in.

More on my blog if anyone is interested.
https://contax139.blogspot.com/2020/11/yashica-fx3-super-4000-anyone.html
https://contax139.blogspot.com/2021/02/yashica-fx-3-super-4000-part-ii.html

Francois · « **Reply #495 on:** February 07, 2021, 05:03:30 PM »

woah! that is definitely camera surgery...

Kai-san · « **Reply #496 on:** February 08, 2021, 10:11:30 AM »

Nice job! Does that mean that you now have a Yashica FX3 with a Nikon Mount?

Pete_R · « **Reply #497 on:** February 08, 2021, 03:43:41 PM »

Quote from: Kai-san on February 08, 2021, 10:11:30 AM

Nice job! Does that mean that you now have a Yashica FX3 with a Nikon Mount?

No, quite the opposite. It originally had a Nikon mount and I've replaced it with a Contax/Yashica mount.

The camera was made by Phenix who also made the Yashica FX-3 and Phenix utilised the FX-3 chassis for a number of other cameras using Nikon, Minolta, Pentax K and Yashica mounts. But this is the only one they made (AFAIK) with a 1/4000 top shutter speed. The last FX-3 had a 1/2000 top speed so I've finished up with a FX-3 with a top speed of 1/4000, something that doesn't otherwise exist. Also, the top and bottom plates are brass compared to the FX-3 plastic.

If you want an FX-3 with a Nikon mount, just look at the Kenko KF-1N as that's what it is. They turn up on ebay periodically.

And an FX-3 with a PK mount is otherwise known as a Vivitar V3800N.

Kai-san · « **Reply #498 on:** February 08, 2021, 06:32:31 PM »

Sorry, I might have misunderstood, but where did the C/Y mount come from?

Bryan · « **Reply #499 on:** February 08, 2021, 07:03:07 PM »

Is that just a straight swap or did you have to do any modifications? The housings look almost identical.