Topic: Kodak HC-110 & TF-4 / Gentle or Vigorous Agitation?

[Mind the Mix]

Kodak HC-110 & TF-4 / Gentle or Vigorous Agitation?
My first development experience and my plan as follows:

Film: T-Max 100 & 400

Development / 68F
TIME: 6 minutes
Agitate vigorous for 30 seconds, then 5 seconds (2 gentle inversions) every 30 seconds.
About 15 seconds before the time is up, pour out developer.

Rinse / 68F running water
TIME: 1 minute

Fix / 68F
TIME: 6 minutes, with 5 inversions once a minute

Final Wash / 68F running water
TIME: 5 minutes.

Soak in a wetting agent
TIME: 1 minute with agitation.

Hang the film to dry.

I have thousands of questions but my main concern at this point is the agitation. There's mixed point of views and I'd really appreciate your advice. Please correct my times if you think I'm wrong with my recipe.

Thanks in advance for all your help.

[LEAFotography]

My understanding is that agitation commonly increases contrast, and you've different types of agitation counts at different stages, including 'vigorous' at points. I'm not aware that either of those T-Max films require that level of agitation to get the process going. But there should be a difference between your approach and solely relying on equally spread agitations without the vigorous kick start.  I guess it will depend on the starting levels of contrast in the image, such that a high contrast original will be slightly enhanced - or if it's relatively low contrast to start with, you might bring out the contrast.

But I'm excited to see some results, as you'll see the effect of your plan for development.  Tempted to run off and try it out haha!

And you'll be able to reproduce it, so long as you follow those same steps, or vary it on subsequent tests for something different.

Let us know

[LT]

I wouldn't worry too much about it. Never vigorous, always gentle & consistent and you will be fine.

PS - critical agitation is only really an issue in the developer. Slap-dash & ballpark are fine at all other stages.

[LEAFotography]

My understanding is that agitation commonly increases contrast, and you've different types of agitation counts at different stages, including 'vigorous' at points. I'm not aware that either of those T-Max films require that level of agitation to get the process going. But there should be a difference between your approach and solely relying on equally spread agitations without the vigorous kick start.  I guess it will depend on the starting levels of contrast in the image, such that a high contrast original will be slightly enhanced - or if it's relatively low contrast to start with, you might bring out the contrast.

But I'm excited to see some results, as you'll see the effect of your plan for development.  Tempted to run off and try it out haha!

And you'll be able to reproduce it, so long as you follow those same steps, or vary it on subsequent tests for something different.

Let us know

Just had a look at the technical notes which suggest: 'continuous' agitation for sheet, and equidistant intervals for 35mm, and presumably dipping in-through and out again in rotary tanks...hmmm

[LT]

One other thing ... No one can correct your times. Your camera shutter, light meter, exposure technique, agitation technique, thermometer, water quality, measuring graduate, timer etc etc are all variables which will affect your own technique in a unique way. Take the manufacturers guide, use that. If your negs are generally too low in contrast, extend your dev time by 10% and see what happens, and reduce by same if too contrasty. If your shadows are black & empty, slow down your film speed a bit and see what happens.

Half the fun is the experimentation

[Francois]

And don't agitate the wetting agent. The stuff can foam-up like crazy!

[Mind the Mix]

I wouldn't worry too much about it. Never vigorous, always gentle & consistent and you will be fine.

PS - critical agitation is only really an issue in the developer. Slap-dash & ballpark are fine at all other stages.

Thanks for the advice Leon! I developed my film with a very consistent agitation and the outcome was extremely good.

[Mind the Mix]

One other thing ... No one can correct your times. Your camera shutter, light meter, exposure technique, agitation technique, thermometer, water quality, measuring graduate, timer etc etc are all variables which will affect your own technique in a unique way. Take the manufacturers guide, use that. If your negs are generally too low in contrast, extend your dev time by 10% and see what happens, and reduce by same if too contrasty. If your shadows are black & empty, slow down your film speed a bit and see what happens.

Half the fun is the experimentation

Thanks Leon. I changed the temp, inversions and time on my second development and it was far better than the first one. As you said, I need to experiment and understand the results based on all the variables.