Author Topic: KONICA INSTANT PRESS - Body but NO LENS! (Read 8344 times)

imagecom · « **on:** September 16, 2012, 04:36:41 PM »

Hello Everyone! I saw that Mijonju, Skorj and Moominsean have experience with this camera, and I have one without the lens, that I'd like to
bring back to life. I also have several lenses that might fit, like a 135mm W-Nikkor in Copal 0, a 114mm Tominon in Self -cocking Copal 0 (goes only to 1/125th of a second, another Tominon 114 with standard Copal-0 that goes up to 1/500th, but needs cocking, and a Tominon 105mm in Copal-0. Anyone have any ideas how should I approach this? It would be much appreciated to hear from you guys, as I am totally inexperienced
in doing this (although not totally having two left hands).
Any suggestions are welcome!

Francois · « **Reply #1 on:** September 16, 2012, 11:27:59 PM »

Welcome Imagecom.

Nice camera you have there.
The press shutters (that's what self cocking shutters are called) can be used with Neutral density filters, so the slow speed is not much of a problem.
But personally, I tend to like the regular ones. Probably has to do with a press shutter going bad on me...

I just checked and the original had a 110mm lens. Going for a lens with longer focal length would throw the rangefinder completely off. So, I would suggest going with the closest thing you have.

imagecom · « **Reply #2 on:** September 17, 2012, 07:47:32 AM »

Thank you, Francois! Is there a way to re-calibrate the rangefinder if I need to?

Milos

jojonas~ · « **Reply #3 on:** September 17, 2012, 09:08:32 AM »

hi milos!

Quote from: Francois on September 16, 2012, 11:27:59 PM

I just checked and the original had a 110mm lens. Going for a lens with longer focal length would throw the rangefinder completely off. So, I would suggest going with the closest thing you have.

~~I'd try going with the 105mm and see if it would be possible to shim it up to 110mm~~

wait

that wouldn't work.. right? now I'm confused and I'll just shut up before I confuse anyone else

haha

good luck though!

imagecom · « **Reply #4 on:** September 17, 2012, 01:24:14 PM »

@ jojonas: Yeah.....thanks......

Francois · « **Reply #5 on:** September 17, 2012, 02:44:14 PM »

Quote from: imagecom on September 17, 2012, 07:47:32 AM

Is there a way to re-calibrate the rangefinder if I need to?

I have no idea on this model. I know some use a set screw while others use a complex cam system (well, not so complex but you have to manufacture a custom one for each lens you use)

SLVR · « **Reply #6 on:** September 17, 2012, 07:14:17 PM »

I was thinking this, but if you were to use a different focal length lens wouldn't that change the camera's closest focus distance? If infinity is set properly then wouldn't everything be slightly off as it gets closer?

This may help?

I hope Mijonju doesn't mind

http://www.circlerectangle.com/?p=515

imagecom · « **Reply #7 on:** September 17, 2012, 08:56:43 PM »

Thank you Francois, is seems logical.
TinTin, I saw this Mijonju post, its exactly the opposite of what I want to do. Does anyone have any experience with calibrating the Konica rangefinder?
I don't think there is a CAM that needs to be changed, as there are no interchangeable lenses on Konica.
Anyone?....before I open the rangefinder myself, I'd like to hear from someone who did it already, to avoid any mistakes....

ludoo · « **Reply #8 on:** September 18, 2012, 08:18:36 AM »

I'm envious :-)

A shorter focal length has a shorter flange to film distance, which would mean bringing the lens closer to the film plane in order to be able to reach infinity. A slightly longer focal length (a 114mm for example) would be better, as you can use shims to bring the lens slightly forward.

In my limited experience though the flange to focal plane distance is slightly less than the declared focal length of the lens: my two 105mm (Zeiss and Angenieux) both have flange distances less than 100mm. Your best bet is to put each lens on the camera and use a ground glass and a loupe to check which one fits best.

Unless you are extremely lucky, the rangefinder will not be consistent with the new lens, so you'll have to decide if you want to have it usable for near or far distances. In my Polaroid hybrids I calibrate it for near distances so I can use it for portraits with sufficient precision, and I make sure the infinity stop is ok so I don't need the rf for longer distances.

Sent from my LT15i using Tapatalk 2

DS · « **Reply #9 on:** September 18, 2012, 11:09:28 AM »

Quote from: imagecom on September 17, 2012, 08:56:43 PM

Anyone?....before I open the rangefinder myself, I'd like to hear from someone who did it already, to avoid any mistakes....

I haven't- but from repairing other stuff with varying degrees of success I learned that If I'm calm, methodical and don't force anything it'll be fine. It's when I get carried away that I break things. Take lots of pictures. I set my digicrap & a flash up on a tripod where I'm working so it's easy to snap working photos as I go.

Take apart an old film pack and put a bit of ground glass or drafting film on the rails so you can check the focus at the film plane with a loupe. This trick is quite useful for setting infinity: http://elekm.net/zeiss-ikon/repair/collimate/.

Quote from: ludoo on September 18, 2012, 08:18:36 AM

A shorter focal length has a shorter flange to film distance, which would mean bringing the lens closer to the film plane in order to be able to reach infinity. A slightly longer focal length (a 114mm for example) would be better, as you can use shims to bring the lens slightly forward.

This is very good advice- on some cameras it's difficult / impossible move the infinity stop

Quote from: ludoo on September 18, 2012, 08:18:36 AM

Unless you are extremely lucky, the rangefinder will not be consistent with the new lens, so you'll have to decide if you want to have it usable for near or far distances. In my Polaroid hybrids I calibrate it for near distances so I can use it for portraits with sufficient precision, and I make sure the infinity stop is ok so I don't need the rf for longer distances.

Yeah- I've done this (on a broken Isolette III with an oscilloscope lens) so that the rangefinder was fixed at the closest focus distance- what I really like about it is that all your photos come out at the same scale (a bit like the some of the cheaper packfilm cameras with a fixed rangefinder)

imagecom · « **Reply #10 on:** September 18, 2012, 03:36:10 PM »

THE DECISION HAS BEEN MADE!
I decided to put the 1-1/500th of a second Tominon in Copal, because it has a very similar construction and position of levers like the original Konica lens.
Although I would prefer a press-copal a self-cocking one, because, being a not-so-old photographer, I didn't get used to cocking the shutter before every shot, since I started with a 35mm slr, in my youth, and this leads to me often forgetting to do the cocking thing, causing me to miss a shot (like I am going to shoot action with this thing.....NOT!)
I will post pictures of how it looks and possibly a few of WIP photos, if I take any....
Stay tuned....cross your fingers!

And thank you ALL, guys! Suggestions and advices are appreciated a lot!

Milos

imagecom · « **Reply #11 on:** October 06, 2012, 11:44:46 AM »

WELLLLL,
AFTER some weeks of idling and taking car of more important stuff, I finally got on to it!
The problem was to find some screws (four of them) that can be used to hold the bellows to the front standard, since the camera didn't come with any.
The lens is held by a regular retaining ring, which I have on my copal 0 shutter.

In my search for those screws, I remembered that I had a Yashica Electro somewhere, that was flooded or exposed to sever moisture in someone's attic
or cellar, and I was given it for nothing.
So I started digging into it with my screwdiver, removing every screw I could come by, hoping that I'll find four that would be an exact match. Using my caliper, I measured that there are about 4-5 varieties of screws in Yashica, from 1.3mm to 1.8mm thread, and various lengths, and various head shapes.

I learned that the original ones that hold the bellows to the front standard were 1.7mm thisck and about 3mm long, but when tried this size, I couldn't screw them in, so I tried smaller sizes and about 1.4 to 1.5mm thread size seemed to fit.

imagecom · « **Reply #12 on:** October 06, 2012, 11:49:36 AM »

Here is the finished job!

The red arrow shows a release tab on the lens that fits perfectly inside the release lever housing on the front standard, which is connected to the relase
button on the camera cover. I only had to remove the two screws that held a cable release socket and replace them back without the socket.
Now, I checked the close focus using a piece of tracing paper and it is off, I haven't yet shoot some film.

Has anyone ever adjusted the rangefinder on the Konica Instant? I need to know which screws are the ones I need to turn, when I remove the RF cover.
I don't want to mess it up now, that everything else looks nice.

Thanks guys!

imagecom · « **Reply #13 on:** October 08, 2012, 11:41:02 AM »

Anyone up to helping me determine which screws to turn in order to calibrate the RF???
After i lift of the rangefinder housing held by two side screws, there are several screws there that look like they
could be the candidates, but I know there should be only two, maximum 3 that are usedfor RF adjustment.....HELP!

ludoo · « **Reply #14 on:** October 08, 2012, 11:48:33 AM »

It should not be too hard to figure out. RF calibration is done in two steps: vertical calibration (if it's off), then horizontal.

Vertical calibration usually involves one of two things: either changing the angle of the non-transparent mirror so that rays will reflect higher or lower, or turning a circular lens which is set at an angle and will deflect rays higher or lower according to its position. Look carefully at the non-transparent mirror and at the light path and you'll be able to figure it out.

Horizontal calibration is the same but in the other direction, and it's easier since you can see what changes at different focusing distances: look at what moves in the RF assembly when you focus the lens, and you'll be able to figure out what to do. Again, usually it's either a screw that acts as a stop or distancer in the RF arm or cam.

Post detailed pictures of the RF insides at minimum and maximum focusing and we might be able to help, but I'm sure you can figure it out. You just need to understand what each part in the RF does and if/how it can be tuned.

As a last resort, sell me the camera and get one with a calibrated RF.

imagecom · « **Reply #15 on:** October 11, 2012, 10:19:49 PM »

thank you ludoo. I will post the pictures of the rangefinder screws exposed tomorrow, hoping you might be able to show me which are the ones to turn.

That's quite a bit of expertise you gave me, I am not 100% sure I have understood everything, but with pictures, I am sure I'll figure it out.

Thanks again!

Brian Scott Peterson · « **Reply #16 on:** October 13, 2012, 08:21:50 AM »

Sorry, I just posted in the wrong thread. I'm looking for a Konica Instant Press Body without the lens. If its for sale, mail me at zebrio@gmail.com. Thanks!

imagecom · « **Reply #17 on:** October 13, 2012, 05:59:17 PM »

@ Ludoo:

Here are the photos of rangefinder guts after I removed the cover. I hope it is visible for you which screws do what, if not, please let me know
and I will gladly re-photograph it.

Looking forward to your reply

Milos

ludoo · « **Reply #18 on:** October 13, 2012, 07:51:52 PM »

I don't see anything in the pics you posted, which could mean calibration is done not in the rf, but in the parts that transmit the front standard movenet to the rf. Or the screw is below the rf assembly and is not visible in the pics.

Francois · « **Reply #19 on:** October 13, 2012, 09:49:42 PM »

Same here... no adjustments possible there. Just like the Graflex which hides everything under a panel inside the camera's frame.

imagecom · « **Reply #20 on:** October 17, 2012, 08:54:15 AM »

Francois, Ludoo, are you sure?

Does this mean I am busted?
I can't believe I won't be able to use it/adjust it. Is there a way around it?
I was so excited on the possibility to have this camera up and running again.....

Maybe I didn't take enough detailed photos, because there are lots of screws inside the rangefinder assembly looking from the side I took photos from

I am devastated....

ludoo · « **Reply #21 on:** October 17, 2012, 08:58:57 AM »

Quote from: imagecom on October 17, 2012, 08:54:15 AM

Francois, Ludoo, are you sure? Does this mean I am busted?
I can't believe I won't be able to use it/adjust it. Is there a way around it?

OMG read carefully what we wrote: it does not mean there's no adjustment, but simply that the adjustment is elsewhere, either in the mechanism linking the front standard to the rf, or on the underside of the rf assembly.

As usual with repairs, you need to figure out what each specific part does and how the whole of the mechanism works, then you'll have no problems fixing or tuning it, if you are careful and have good tools. Don't rely on other people's knowledge, rely on wht you have in front of you and your powers of observation.

And I repeat, if all else fails, send me the camera lol.

Francois · « **Reply #22 on:** October 17, 2012, 02:34:45 PM »

Actually, the focusing cam and adjustments could be at many places. And some of them are just plain counter intuitive!

Just as an example: On the Crown Graphic, they're under the top. On the Linhof they're in the flip down tray.
Each camera is different, the only thing to do is try and follow the linkages and try to figure it out.