Topic: Best polaroid image transfer technique for FP100c

[Thom Stone]

Hi all, I have recently been playing with fp100c in my mamiya rb67 polaroid back and trying some image transfers into my lyric book (which is very textured paper, similar to water colour paper)

I have a few questions about how to improve my results.

1. how long do you wait before you peel the film? some people say that you have to peel it early to transfer the image properly.

2. how long do you keep it stuck down for?

3. Does the paper have to be moistend with something first for best results? i.e. what seem to be spot wipes like in this video? "Ghetto" Polaroid transfer. You don't need special photo materials to do one! (although I realise that is real polaroid film)

4. does it really need to be done in complete darkness? this is another thing I have read online but cant seem to find out if it actually makes any difference.

5. finally what is the best way to flatten the image (without having to carry rollers and squeegees and such like around with me?)

my results are quite patchy, not all the image seems to take to the paper, I will scan some images in the morning when I can put my hands on my book.

p.s. I have spent quite a lot of time googling and searching for all these things but it would be nice to have some real examples and answers from real people :-P

[Chalky]

I'm nowhere near an expert, but not all films like transfers, for example I think it is 669 that does, and some of the other pola ones that won't.

I don't think fuji film is great for transfers?  Moominsean will know I expect.

Good luck anyway 

[moominsean]

i've never much been into transfers as i don't like the look particularly. i prefer the actual polaroid...so i don't know much about it!

[Francois]

I've never done Fuji FP transfers but I've found this how-to
http://www.alternativephotography.com/wp/processes/fuji/fuji-image-transfer

[Miller]

Thomo : Fuji image transfers are something that can be cool imo... Here's a how to that works for me with my printer using 35mm slides but you get the drift:-

At hand a pair of scissors, hard roller, safelight and paper of choice which I will go into later.

Darken the room and keep the safelight away from the action. Once I pull the image from the printer I've got 16 to 18 seconds to cut away the edge of the print that still holds the chemical residue (too messy when left in situ). Peel and drop the negative side onto the awaiting paper and roll hard and evenly for 40-50 seconds.  All the rest can be done with the lights on and after around another 30 seconds depending how I want the image to look, peel away....


Now paper of choice for moi is Fabriano 5, 300 gram hot press which is very smooth being 50% cotton and watercolour. It can be bought as a pad (Fabriano RKB Fat Pad) and that way cost effective at 2 prints a page. A lot of peeps like Arches 88 but I didn't get on with it... The whites have a yellow cast but I can live with that.

If you want to shoot in the field then a box to shade the light may be ok, otherwise you may want to shoot then peel when appropriate...

I have more in my FlickR and that ghetto vid' is laffs...

Jah guide

[Thom Stone]

Nice one miller, that's a real help, thanks. I do have a darkbag that I can always add to my kit when I'm shooting. so that's no biggy really. It seems these rollers are pretty key, will head out and find some in my local craft shop today. Will add some new results as soon as my film comes through the door, and some old results as soon as I can find my darn lyric booK!

[Paul Mitchell]

It seems these rollers are pretty key, will head out and find some in my local craft shop today.

Thomo - these rollers are normally used for making lino cut prints... it might help when asking for them.

Am fortunate that I still have quite a few packs of 669 left but the Fuji technique is something I'm keeping an eye on as my stock of Polaroid film is not going to last forever.

Paul

[gothamtomato]

@Miller, that's a great transfer! Do you use the paper wet or dry?

I too make my transfers with 669 (& a slide printer), and am hoping to be able to use Fuji once the 669 runs out (My favorite was actually 559, but that is looong gone.)

With the Polaroid, I've always had better luck with wet paper. And I always color my transfers with pastels once they dry.

[Miller]

Gotham

Dry set up, I like to keep things simple... I've worked with Polaroid as well as Fuji and I like the latter a lot...

I must say that the originals are far far better as they can be tricky to scan and no 'touching up' on my part...

Mlr

[Ed Wenn]

I tried Miller's method a couple of years ago after he first kindly posted it here and it works a treat. I've been meaning to return to it, but life keeps getting in the way.

Try it. You'll love how well it works.