Topic: How long do b&w chemicals last?

[Mojave]

Was just reading the thread about the E6 processing and thought to ask a question about the shelf life of b&w chemicals. I know shelf life varies between products but I've heard that the HC110 syrup dev lasts indefinitely but it sure gets dark after sitting for a few weeks. And I've had a huge container of Arista fixer for quite a while and its going yellow. All chems have worked fine with these color changes but Im just curious if they are getting to the point now where they need to be replaced. I've got eyes only for instant films right now so my chemicals are just sitting there, not getting used. Is there some basic guideline regarding shelf life?

Thanks all!

[Greys on Grey]

I am still using TMax and Dektol --> concentrate <-- that expired back in 2009 (not working stock).  But it has remained at 55 degrees in a dark place.

I would never take a chance and use exhausted developer for negatives, you only get one shot. 

Disclaimer: The following is only my unqualified unscientific opinion based only on my own experiences.
 
But with paper it lasts as long as it lasts.  You could also expose a test pattern negative and print that any time you have concerns about your chemistry. 

[original_ann]

I've been using the same HC-110 syrup for 2-3 years.  I transferred it into tiny amber glass bottles so that they would remain quite full and use full strength just what I need.    I'm not sure how long the fixer lasts - - I have been meaning to purchase some hypo check for that purpose:  http://www.freestylephoto.biz/69800-Arista-Premium-Hypo-Check-.75-oz

[moominsean]

it lasts a lot longer if you can mix as you develop. powders like d-76 have to be mixed all at once so they don't last as long, though i've used mixed d-76 after a year. many liquid base developers will last a long, long time unmixed in an airtight container.

some can suffer from instant death, like diafine. it can last a few years but will suddenly not work at any given point in time. color developers suffer from instant death as well, sometimes.

[Heather]

I'm fairly sure that fixer doesn't go off for a very long time. I buy 5litres of concentrate at a time and that's about a year's worth for me.
Rodinal doesn't seem to go off, as long as it's not diluted to working strength. Rodinal also gets very dark after it's been open for a while but it doesn't affect its performance.
Stop bath shouldn't go off since it's just an acid. The indicator chemical in it tells you when it has turned too alkaline.
I tend to not leave working strength solutions around for very long except for stop bath. Probably not more than a month or two for working strength fixer but that's more because I forget how many films it's done so I just mix up fresh the next time I need it.

[LT]

echo all that's been said.

to add to long lasting list - Harman warm and cool tone paper developers seem to last in stock solution for ever.  Ilford Bromophen paper dev lasts in stock for a good 5 years or so (mine seems to anyway), and Agfa Neutol WA paper dev seems to have the same provenance as Rodinal - I have a bottle that is 10 years old this year and still working well, although it is as dark as guinness.

[Heather]

Oh that's a good point. I have Ilford Multigrade (stock/concentrate) that looks like black coffee and it seems to still work fine, despite Ilford official recommendations.

[Photo_Utopia]

Powders should last a fair while 5-10 years, I have Rodinal film developer that is the colour of Cola and is still OK.
I used Ilfotec HC which is similar to HC110 and had a bottle of syrup for about 2 years. I have had Paterson film developer die on me when it was dark straw colour so it depends on the developer and how much preservative it contains.

The way I test is to cut of a small amount of film ans submerge it in a working solution. If the film goes black after 10 mins it's probably going to be useable.
But er to the side of caution, especially with film.

I think the syrup type developers are better if you use rarely then buy smaller containers and split the bottle-oxygen is the enemy here.
Mark

[Francois]

I'm not sure how long the fixer lasts - - I have been meaning to purchase some hypo check for that purpose:  http://www.freestylephoto.biz/69800-Arista-Premium-Hypo-Check-.75-oz

Just use a film leader and an eyedropper. Put a drop of fixer on the film, wait a minute and dump the rest of the leader in a small jar of fixer. Start timing the process. You want to calculate the time it takes for the drop to become invisible. Fix for double that time and take note of the clearing time.

When the clearing time becomes double the original, it's time to move on to a fresh batch.

At least, that's the cheap way of testing it. The Fix test bottle is quicker and simpler.

[Greys on Grey]

As a follow up, last year I started using Perma Wash but I am unsure of the archival characteristics.  Any one have long term experience with using this to cut was times?
 

[Mojave]

Thank you all so much!!! Sounds like Im good to go for a while then. I still have some Rodinal that I was afraid to use because it was so dark and I was getting iffy about the HC110 when it started going the color of a blood orange but it sounds like its all good still.

Thank you all again!