Topic: 4x5 film developing

[moominsean]

I've looked at various options, and was curious what some of the folks here do for self developing 4x5 sheet film? I see canisters with spools, and boxes with hangers, and just using trays. Any preferences?

[astrobeck]

since I only shoot a couple of sheets at a time, I use a tube thing made by Randy over at Holgamods.
works great, you just load it in a changing bag and then the rest is daylight.   

I'll see if I can rustle up the link for it.

[original_ann]

I use the Jobo 2521 (2 reel) tank and 2509 reels and place it on an inexpensive unicolor print drum roller.  

[gregor]

when I use sheet film instead of pos/neg polaroid, I go with tray development.  Just seems easier, but probably because that's the way I learned and have always done so...

[johann]

I too always wanted to try 4x5. I was thinking of tray development as I already have trays for printing, I don't need to buy anything more. Some time ago I found a very thorough tutorial on your tube explaining 'Processing Sheet Film in Trays'. Haven't got around to invest in that format yet. Keep us posted with your experiences.

[Heather]

hmm not sure why this was so hard to search for in the forums (maybe something to do with 5 x 4 spaced out) but I found it eventually and re-uploaded my picture
http://www.filmwasters.com/forum/index.php?topic=1918.msg16689
I hate sitting around in the dark developing in trays. Used to do it when I enlarged negs onto panchromatic (normal) 4x5 sheet film. Bleh.
In other news, I now have an HP Combiplan tank and it's lovely if you do decide to keep up the 4x5. Does 6 sheets at a time for 1litre of dev. Really *really* read the instructions carefully first since you can't just pick it up and use it how you think it should be used, which seems to be the biggest whinge about it. They are a bit pricey but I decided I had enough of developing 1-2 sheets at a time when I started shooting more.

[Paul Mitchell]

I use a modified Paterson Orbital, by modified I mean the base has been scored to stop the film from sticking to the bottom. You can process 4 sheets in only 200 ml as opposed to 1000 ml for 6 sheets in the Combiplan tank.

Paul

[Photo_Utopia]

I use the same method as Heather, I put 2 sheets (emulsion inwards) in a Patteson Universal daylight tank (with centre spindle!) and about 1L of chemistry.
Works OK for me.
Mark

[Karl]

Combiplan tank. Stille arly days so I'm not an expert. It's fiddly but, as with 35/120, I hope to get better. Trouble is I do less of it so I always feel like a beginner!

[LT]

another combiplan user here.  it does make life easy but isn't very economic with chems - also have some problems with uneven development around film edges in some developer types. I also have a paterson orbital processor which I have adapted for film development - works quite well too and VVV economic with chems.

[mikeg]

I too use a Paterson orbital processor. Instead of scoring the base of the tank, I've added small blobs of epoxy resin all over the base. Works great and as others have said it uses hardly any chemicals.

Mike

[moominsean]

I will probably just do pan for now while I look at the options. I have a Grafmatic back so I will have six shots at a time. I don't think I have the patience to develop one at a time in the dark!

[sapata]

I use the HP Combiplan as well and I really like it, easy to load the film and the chemicals, you can adjust the size and even use to process glass plates.

It takes around 1000ml of chemicals but you can develop 6 sheets at once, I normally use Rodinal stand development 1:100 and the results it's been great so far.

[johann]

also have some problems with uneven development around film edges in some developer types.

I read somewhere that pre-soaking helps with the edges (for 120). Maybe it works also for 4x5.

[Francois]

Pre-soaking was originally intended for sheet film is memory serves me well.

[LT]

also have some problems with uneven development around film edges in some developer types.

I read somewhere that pre-soaking helps with the edges (for 120). Maybe it works also for 4x5.

thanks Johann.

I habitually presoak film no matter which format - although I do it to ensure a constant temperature. Manufacturers will tell you not to presoak for evenness issues as the AH layer already includes additives to aid developer uptake.

My issue is with catechol based developers. I consistently get problems on edges when using these in my c-plan - no matter if I use 6, 4 or 2 sheets. Home brew d23 works fine though. I've spoken with other tan/stain dev users who report using these with the c-plan and experience no problems. Weird. 

[moominsean]

i have 75 sheets of shanghai bw film to mess with so i'll try some different things.

the few times i've pre-rinsed film, i've lots a lot of detail in the highlights. tends to be more grain. maybe just a d-76 thing?

anyone every use PMK developer? i'd like to try, but it makes 50L of developer!

[LT]

Sean - pre-soaking shouldn't make any difference to highlights or grain ... must be something else at play. Maybe a huge difference in pre-soak temperature and developer temperature would give some grainy reticulation?

PMK is a great developer - any of the pyrogallol developers will be brilliant with LF.  Pyrogallic Acid is quite toxic compared with many other developing ingredients tho.  I personally think you can't beat pyrocat hd if you're wanting to try tan and stain developers.

[astrobeck]

I'm a pre-soaker too, always have been.  I like Arista's developer from Freestyle.

Lasts forever and is priced right for my budget. 

[Ken B: eyes, I just do eyes.]

I use a Jobo tank and reel, be careful when doing inversion 1.2lt od fluid weighs a bit more than the 400ml that goes into a stainless tank for 120 


Smashed the back of my hand into the darkroom bench and doubled my vocabulary at the same time.

[original_ann]

Ouch Ken!  that is a valid warning!   (I, too, presoak...)