Author Topic: I just made/fixed ... (Read 126405 times)

Pete_R · « **Reply #500 on:** February 08, 2021, 08:21:51 PM »

Quote from: Kai-san on February 08, 2021, 06:32:31 PM

Sorry, I might have misunderstood, but where did the C/Y mount come from?

A scrap FX-3.

Pete_R · « **Reply #501 on:** February 08, 2021, 08:32:35 PM »

Quote from: Bryan on February 08, 2021, 07:03:07 PM

Is that just a straight swap or did you have to do any modifications? The housings look almost identical.

They are 'almost' identical. I've swapped Pentax K mounts and replaced them with Yashica mounts in the past and it's very little work. Swapping the Nikon for a Yashica was a more of a problem. The flange to film distance of the Nikon is quite a bit shorter than the Yashica (PK is almost identical) and the mount seems a bit wider. So there were a few mechanical differences. Plus, because the M1 has a metal top plate, it's constructed differently and didn't mate with the Yashica front plate so there were some modifications to do there. And the metering circuit was different - same in principle, but some different component values and it was easier to swap the complete circuit out. Although, the FX-3 circuit is designed for one less shutter speeds which is another issue I haven't totally fixed.

The object was to use the improved shutter and it might have been easier to just put the shutter in an FX-3 but I wanted to retain the M1 body and top and bottom plates too hence why I did it this way.

Francois · « **Reply #502 on:** March 19, 2021, 09:09:06 PM »

Well... I guess this is what happens when you apply the following formula:
Boredom + Lust for a new camera + 3D printer = Over-engineered madness

So, I present to you a cardboard tube can pinhole camera. With two shutters (one on the side and one on top) for two types of anamorphosis, a custom press-on lid and a built-in Manfrotto compatible tripod mount.

It's not fully completed as I still need to make some hold-downs for the lid, just in case.

Did I need to build it? Not really. Did I need another camera? Not really. Is it practical? Not the slightest.

Bryan · « **Reply #503 on:** March 19, 2021, 09:39:36 PM »

Quote from: Francois on March 19, 2021, 09:09:06 PM

Well... I guess this is what happens when you apply the following formula:
Boredom + Lust for a new camera + 3D printer = Over-engineered madness

So, I present to you a cardboard tube can pinhole camera. With two shutters (one on the side and one on top) for two types of anamorphosis, a custom press-on lid and a built-in Manfrotto compatible tripod mount.

It's not fully completed as I still need to make some hold-downs for the lid, just in case.

Did I need to build it? Not really. Did I need another camera? Not really. Is it practical? Not the slightest.

Looks yummy!

Francois · « **Reply #504 on:** March 19, 2021, 09:42:15 PM »

The fun thing is that even if I cleaned it pretty well, you do get a whiff of cocoa powder every time you pop the lid

irv_b · « **Reply #505 on:** March 20, 2021, 12:46:52 PM »

Quote from: Francois on March 19, 2021, 09:09:06 PM

Well... I guess this is what happens when you apply the following formula:
Boredom + Lust for a new camera + 3D printer = Over-engineered madness

So, I present to you a cardboard tube can pinhole camera. With two shutters (one on the side and one on top) for two types of anamorphosis, a custom press-on lid and a built-in Manfrotto compatible tripod mount.

It's not fully completed as I still need to make some hold-downs for the lid, just in case.

Did I need to build it? Not really. Did I need another camera? Not really. Is it practical? Not the slightest.

That looks so good Francois, a neat little thing to keep the brain ticking over.

Francois · « **Reply #506 on:** March 20, 2021, 02:21:23 PM »

I still need to make some hooks to really secure the top with rubber bands.
And yesterday I measured the interior and to my surprise I takes a full sheet of 5x7 paper without any trimming!
When does something like that ever happens?

Kai-san · « **Reply #507 on:** March 22, 2021, 02:08:33 PM »

Some time ago I purchased a Mamiya RB67 set in a metal case (1st picture). The equipment was set in some old and yellowing foam, so I decided to make something better out of this otherwise nice case. First I stripped all the foam from the case and set to work on a divider framework. For this I used 8 mm plywood screwed together with countersunk screws, the resulting maze can be seen in the 2nd picture. Then I covered the framework with 4 mm wool felt, and this is the tricky part. I used some felt that I had left over, ideally it should probably have been slightly thinner. I used contact cement to fix it, and that means you will get just one chance to get it right. Anyway it turned out quite acceptable, at least if you don't look too closely. Finally I put new foam into the lid and into the cells of the maze. The good thing is that I now have space for three extra lenses in this case. But it comes at a price, the loaded case now weighs in at 15.5 kg.

Francois · « **Reply #508 on:** March 22, 2021, 02:50:42 PM »

That's pretty neat.
All you need now is to fit it with a skateboard truck and some type of extending handle.
Check this out for some inspiration
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mou13GpMxIw

Kai-san · « **Reply #509 on:** March 29, 2021, 04:29:09 PM »

As mentioned in another thread I have a couple of Yashica FX-2 cameras with different issues. I contacted Peter about this and he set me thinking more clearly, thanks Peter!

One of the FX-2 had a meter that was 2+ stops off, and checking the assembly manual I could see there was an adjustment pot on the CDS meter circuit board. I popped off the top of the camera, and here is a warning if you do the same. Under the on/off switch there is a metal plate with three holes as shown in the first picture (marked "Watch this!"). Underneath the rightmost hole there is a tiny steel ball, about 1 mm in diameter. It's sitting loose on top of a tiny spring. This is the click stop of the switch, so be very careful when you take the top off this camera! First I tried the meter adjustment shown on the right, but that was not enough to get a correct reading. On the same circuit board as the on/off switch there is a pot which I assume is a voltage adjustment. I gave it a try and it works! So now I have a meter reading that seems OK, I just need to shoot a test roll to verify it. I added a picture of the second FX-2 as well (with a higher serial no.), here you can see that the meter pot is gone, and now there are two pots beside the on/off switch. I assume they have just moved the meter pot for some reason. The second FX-2 will go back into the drawer again as it has an erratic shutter + a non-working frame counter. If any of you need parts for an FX-2, just contact me.

Francois · « **Reply #510 on:** March 29, 2021, 09:19:01 PM »

I have a similar frame counter problem on my old FR.
There is a small nylon gear inside that is cracked and won't hold tight against a shaft anymore.

Pete_R · « **Reply #511 on:** March 29, 2021, 09:51:09 PM »

Quote from: Francois on March 29, 2021, 09:19:01 PM

I have a similar frame counter problem on my old FR.
There is a small nylon gear inside that is cracked and won't hold tight against a shaft anymore.

I think the FX-2 counter is different. But the FR one is fixable. I've fixed a few of them.

Francois · « **Reply #512 on:** March 30, 2021, 02:05:14 PM »

I've tried pretty much every type of glue I can get my hands on but never managed to get gear to stick together properly...
It's split on one side. I find it pretty sad in a sense because it was my first SLR camera.

02Pilot · « **Reply #513 on:** March 30, 2021, 02:23:57 PM »

Quote from: Francois on March 30, 2021, 02:05:14 PM

I've tried pretty much every type of glue I can get my hands on but never managed to get gear to stick together properly...
It's split on one side. I find it pretty sad in a sense because it was my first SLR camera.

Not sure how big the gear you're talking about is, but if you're willing to try something a bit different I might have a solution for you. I've used this on stressed broken plastics before with some success.

Find a piece of steel that is suitably shaped to bridge the crack - in this case something like a heavy-duty staple might work. Put a thin coat of epoxy into the crack, then clamp the gear around the circumference so it's the right shape and the epoxy is compressed. Remove any excess epoxy, heat the steel piece with a propane torch until it's red hot, then press it into the plastic (I usually hold it with needlenose pliers for this step). It should melt holes as you press it in, which will then harden back up as they cool, fixing the steel in the plastic. This reinforcement should allow the epoxy to hold the crack shut under stress.

Pete_R · « **Reply #514 on:** March 30, 2021, 05:00:45 PM »

Quote from: Francois on March 30, 2021, 02:05:14 PM

I've tried pretty much every type of glue I can get my hands on but never managed to get gear to stick together properly...
It's split on one side. I find it pretty sad in a sense because it was my first SLR camera.

The problem is the gear is pressed onto the shaft and is a tight fit so, once it's split it's impossible to get the split to close up. What I do is to take the gear out and glue the split back together using something to clamp it together while it dries. I use epoxy resin. Once it's dried I drill out the hole so it's easy to put back on the shaft without stressing it. I then fix it in place with more epoxy.

Francois · « **Reply #515 on:** March 30, 2021, 09:24:40 PM »

I'm going to have to try this next time I feel like digging in that thing once more... $:-\$

Francois · « **Reply #516 on:** April 16, 2021, 08:40:37 PM »

This had been bugging me for some time, so I decided to do something about it.
I have this Voigtländer Vito B that was in serious need of a CLA. So I opened-up the beast only to find some of the most sticky grease I've ever seen!
You know, the type that feels more like duct tape adhesive than actual grease?
Had a hard time taking it all apart, the skin on my thumb is still painful from trying to take it apart.
Now this camera is really strangely designed. I've never seen so many spacer rings and such a strange focusing helix in my live. It has more in common with an Acme threaded screw than anything.
But now everything is cleaned (the insides were not too bad), and re-lubed (including the pivots). Even the self timer works like a charm!

02Pilot · « **Reply #517 on:** April 16, 2021, 11:47:06 PM »

Those vintage Voigtlander Color-Skopar lenses do magical things with color film. I've never had the 2.8, but I have coated and uncoated examples of the 50/3.5.

Francois · « **Reply #518 on:** April 17, 2021, 02:53:40 PM »

I don't think I ever tried it with color film. One more thing to do when I get my color processing hat on.

I'm wondering something though, is the focus on yours slightly stiff when compared to other cameras?

02Pilot · « **Reply #519 on:** April 18, 2021, 01:51:25 AM »

It isn't. They are a bit annoying to service - at least mine have been - because they are front-cell focusing, and require a special wrench to disassemble. I've been lucky that mine haven't been gummed up too badly. I did have some uneven focus problems due to a bent standard, but that's a folder-specific problem.

Francois · « **Reply #520 on:** April 18, 2021, 02:43:05 PM »

On the 2.8 it isn't as bad as the entire lens assembly comes out in one piece. But I would really hate to open this module to fix the aperture blades!
On mine I had to put a surprisingly large amount of moly grease on the focusing helix to get it to work somewhat smoothly.
I think it would benefit from having some real helix grease like some Helimax, but I don't have any and this stuff is expensive.

Francois · « **Reply #521 on:** May 21, 2021, 05:09:43 PM »

Just made something that's so simple I don't know why nobody ever thought of it!
For years I've been drooling over the nice Tiffen Black Pro Mist filters, but I couldn't justify spending 40 USD for one.
When Kai offered some free UV filters, I instantly hatched a plan to convert a clear filter into a black diffusion filter.
The only thing needed in my plan were some nail polish remover to clean the filter (I really needed it to remove the "too much black" I put on the first shot), some lens cleaning paper, tape to protect the filter tread and a can of matte black spray paint.
I opted to spray the inside of the filter so that the paint would be protected if I need to clean the filter.
You just need to barely fume it and judge the effect by sticking it to your eye. If there's too much, just clean it with the nail polish remover (you need to scrub pretty hard), let dry really well and start over again.

Here's what I came-up with.

What do you think?

Pete_R · « **Reply #522 on:** May 21, 2021, 08:55:38 PM »

Quote from: Francois on May 21, 2021, 05:09:43 PM

Just made something that's so simple I don't know why nobody ever thought of it!
For years I've been drooling over the nice Tiffen Black Pro Mist filters, ...

What do you think?

Looks like the same effect as used to be got with a black stocking stretched over the lens. Such as this...

I used to stretch the stocking over the back of the lens as I found it could increase flare if on the front.

Francois · « **Reply #523 on:** May 21, 2021, 09:12:06 PM »

Probably is a bit similar.
I know the Black Mist is really good for night photos with neon lights, so I'm hoping this does the same.

LEAFotography · « **Reply #524 on:** May 21, 2021, 10:24:41 PM »

You've got me wondering now whether a light spray of red paint, or red stocking/tights stretched over the lens might work well also? It's a while since I've spayed anything, but a few tests on paper might help me get a feel for how light or fine might be good to start with.

Francois · « **Reply #525 on:** May 21, 2021, 10:38:37 PM »

What's nice about using black is that it doesn't give any color cast like other colors do.
Also, white tends to lower density while black is more unobtrusive.

Moto-uno · « **Reply #526 on:** May 22, 2021, 12:11:51 AM »

That enlarger looks awfully familiar , what might it be ? Peter

Francois · « **Reply #527 on:** May 22, 2021, 02:43:27 PM »

It's an Omega D II
It's an old version that was made before the D2.
It's pretty much the same thing but without the crank to lift it up. So it's a case of grabbing on to it whichever way you can and pulling.

Moto-uno · « **Reply #528 on:** May 26, 2021, 05:27:41 AM »

That explains it , I've got an Omega D3 , love it , but haven't gotten off my arse to use it in at least a year .
Shame on me , spending too much time eating and motorcycling . Peter

Francois · « **Reply #529 on:** May 26, 2021, 02:54:03 PM »

I must admit that I haven't used it in ages too. It's usually at the top position to avoid stretching the springs with a clear plastic bag over the head for dust control.

Francois · « **Reply #530 on:** May 29, 2021, 08:56:06 PM »

How do I call this?
It's a lensed pinhole camera I made out of a Cosmic 35 Soviet camera.
On mine, the shutter instantly broke and it turns out it was not fixable. So years ago I donated it's lens to my FED. But now I was stuck with this body I couldn't get rid of... gruesome isn't it

So, I decided to fix it and convert it into a mutant pinhole camera. Thing is I wanted to be able to use the viewfinder, so I found in my stuff a camcorder telephoto adapter that roughly re-adjusts the frame to the proper view.
Most people would have just made an external shutter for it. I don't know if it's insanity from my part, but I wanted to have an internal shutter on it. Not the easiest thing to do since the space is so cramped in there. It took me 6 design revisions to make one that actually works!
It's now got an f/134 aperture, custom shutter (complete with curved levers), custom Manfrotto compatible tripod mount, 46mm filter mount (with a nice metal 46-49mm adapter mounted on it). The cable release socket works. The rewind knob is not a thumb ripper anymore as I glued a gear on the spindle and lubed everything with moly grease. The shutter button locks in place to enable the rewind mechanism (that was one of the biggest pains to fix).

So, here's the monster... not so scary is it

Bryan · « **Reply #531 on:** May 29, 2021, 11:35:28 PM »

Hybrid pinhole, faux pinhole, notapinhole? I’ll be interested to see what the images look like, I have a similar lens but I think it’s for wide angle.

Francois · « **Reply #532 on:** May 30, 2021, 02:52:03 PM »

Before building it, I did some tests using a pinhole cap on my slr.
It's going to be just like a regular pinhole, only with added lens flare.

John Robison · « **Reply #533 on:** May 30, 2021, 05:41:41 PM »

I would think that at f134 the lens+pinhole would not produce an image much different than the pinhole without the lens.

I have a simple, plastic meniscus lens of 110mm focal length that is attached to a 4x5 (well, actually 95x95mm so 4x4) and limit taking aperture to f64 and viewing aperture to f16. The f16 aperture is only to check FoV with a ground glass. Since I’m using paper at about ISO 3-6 then most exposures run from 3 to 30 seconds.

Francois · « **Reply #534 on:** May 30, 2021, 08:35:02 PM »

Most probably won't. Especially since the lens I use is there only to adapt the field of view so that it more closely matches the viewfinder.
The lens I'm using is an afocal design (it's complete like a small telescope with an eyepiece that is focused on infinity) in contrast to a meniscus which would be a direct objective design.

(useless information courtesy of Edmund Science publications

)

Francois · « **Reply #535 on:** May 31, 2021, 05:19:35 PM »

For those interested, here's a look at my internal shutter. This is revision 5, but in the camera I use revision 6 which is slightly different but basically the same.

Bryan · « **Reply #536 on:** August 26, 2021, 08:20:07 PM »

Just finished repairs on my new ICA Toska 9X12 camera. I re-attached the bellows, gave it a good cleaning, re-painted some of the black paint and glued down the loose leather covering. I also lubricated the rails so the lens standard would move easier. It takes the same plate holders and ground glass as my Zeiss Ikon Ideal but I ordered some parts to try to make one that I can dedicate to this camera. My plan is to convert a pack film holder by attaching a ground glass inside it. I just need to figure out a way to shim it to the proper focal distance.

I wish I had the instructions for this camera, there are a few things about it that are confusing. It has a distance scale along the side of the small mirror viewer above the lens. It goes from 3 to infinity but I'm not sure how that is supposed to be used. Maybe it's a way to roughly judge distance based on an average person's height. The other thing is there are two locks when you extend the bellows. One locks it at infinity as you would expect, the other locks it about an inch further, past the lowest number on the distance scale. I'm not sure what the purpose of that is.

Francois · « **Reply #537 on:** August 26, 2021, 09:11:14 PM »

Could the distance scale be part of a parallax compensation mechanism?
I know my old Crown Graphic has one on the eyepiece.
Also, maybe the stops are adjustable?

I don't know about the exact size of the plate holders on this one but for making a groundglass holder you might want to consider using a filmpack adapter. If it fits, those are super cheap as there hasn't been any film made for them in the last 60 years.
Else, 3D printing always saves the day

If you're still near Albuquerque, you can get in touch with Ethan at Cameradactyl. He runs a printing farm and he's pretty good with stuff like that. He already knows Becky, Joe Van Cleave and me, so you shouldn't have any problems getting him to either print or laser cut something.

Bryan · « **Reply #538 on:** August 26, 2021, 10:59:58 PM »

Quote from: Francois on August 26, 2021, 09:11:14 PM

Could the distance scale be part of a parallax compensation mechanism?
I know my old Crown Graphic has one on the eyepiece.
Also, maybe the stops are adjustable?

I don't know about the exact size of the plate holders on this one but for making a groundglass holder you might want to consider using a filmpack adapter. If it fits, those are super cheap as there hasn't been any film made for them in the last 60 years.
Else, 3D printing always saves the day

If you're still near Albuquerque, you can get in touch with Ethan at Cameradactyl. He runs a printing farm and he's pretty good with stuff like that. He already knows Becky, Joe Van Cleave and me, so you shouldn't have any problems getting him to either print or laser cut something.

It could be parallax but it seems like too much compensation for that. At 3 meters it would put the subject completely at the top of the frame. The scale just slides side to side across the viewfinder.

I have a film pack holder coming, that’s what I plan on using. I’m home for a week, heading back to Gallup on Sunday, hopefully my parts come before I leave so I can take it with me. If not it’ll be a fall project.

Sandeha Lynch · « **Reply #539 on:** August 27, 2021, 04:37:25 PM »

Quote from: Bryan on August 26, 2021, 10:59:58 PM

Quote from: Francois on August 26, 2021, 09:11:14 PM

I have a film pack holder coming, that’s what I plan on using.

That pretty much answers your question I think. One infinity stop will likely be for using a sheet film holder, and the other for a roll film holder. You should be able to test this by comparing the distance between the rear of the body and your ground glass, and the rear of the body and the film position in the RFH.

Francois · « **Reply #540 on:** August 27, 2021, 09:29:10 PM »

That would make sense. If that's the case, they would be close together.
If they are far apart, it's a stop for close focus and one for infinity.

Francois · « **Reply #541 on:** September 24, 2021, 09:25:39 PM »

I didn't take any pictures this week but I id make something!
I printed and assembled the PINH5AD 4x5 pinhole camera from Todd Schlemmer.
I also modified it quite a bit by adding a filter holder and a custom Manfrotto compatible tripod mount.
It's got a 90mm focal length.
I still need to give it a better viewfinder clip.

Francois · « **Reply #542 on:** October 22, 2021, 07:24:40 PM »

OK, here's my latest contraption!
Born out of my obsession with wide aperture lenses and my innate desire to prove that with a bit of clever engineering you can make a square peg fit in a round hole, this was born: The Magnalux-Delta II
A few years ago I had made version 1. But after finding another rear projection TV by the side of the road, I was set on creating a better version of it.
Like the Bionic Man, I set to make it lighter, faster, stronger. It wasn't until I got a 3D printer that the project really started to take shape.
I have made a custom adapter plate, custom infinity spacer, custom focus knobs and even a custom lens cap.
The camera is attached using a lens reversing ring that fit in a printed thread.
I roughly estimated the F.L. to be at 85mm. Aperture: a whopping f/1.0
As expected, it doesn't like contrasty scenes. Depth of field is about as thin as a hair. But the lens is surprisingly lightweight allowing me to do night photography handheld. Highlights bloom like crazy with this one giving the photos a look as unique as the lens that produced it.

John Robison · « **Reply #543 on:** October 24, 2021, 01:42:25 PM »

Does that monster focus to infinity? You know, if you already have all the usual darkroom stuff you could test it using photo paper as a load in the darkroom, one shot paper negative. That would give an idea of image qualities without loading a whole roll of film.

Edit; I should have read your post with more care.
“…custom infinity spacer.”
Answers my first queston.

Francois · « **Reply #544 on:** October 24, 2021, 02:38:41 PM »

Yesterday I recalculated the aperture using a much more precise technique and came up with an f stop of 1.3 and a half

Francois · « **Reply #545 on:** October 29, 2021, 03:15:56 PM »

Here's another contraption that had been on the back burner for some time.
I have had for years an old broken Chinon CM-4 camera that had an issue (the mirror had skipped a notch and refused to move up). I tried to fix it but in the process of taking the camera apart I broke a few wires and couldn't figure out where they went. So, it was time for plan B.
I had an old Ansco Viking camera that took 620 film and that was in pretty rough shape. But the shutter and lens were flawless. So, what to do? I guess you know where this is going!
It took me a month to figure out how to dismantle the Chinon while keeping the frame counter working. I cut the interior film window to make it more of a panoramic. Made a custom lens cone for it. Light sealed the whole thing. Made a custom viewfinder for it. Custom lens mount.
So, here is the DX-Pan.

24x60mm frame. 90mm lens.

Bryan · « **Reply #546 on:** November 28, 2021, 07:54:41 PM »

I slapped this abomination together with Gaffers tape yesterday to make some prints from 9X12 negatives. I repurposed a 4X5 camera and an old Kodak darkroom light. I had to corp the photos a little since the darkroom light is not quite large enough to cover the whole negative. It vignettes on the corners so it will be worse with a 4X5 negative. I have a 161mm Kodak Projection Anastigmat enlarger lens that I tried to use but I didn't have enough extension to raise it high enough. I was just barely able to use a 135mm Graflex Optar lens which isn't an ideal lens for an enlarger. It's also too close to the tripod post so I can just barely make an 8"X10" print. This was mostly just a test to see how well it works. The prints look good but before I try this again I need to get a better light source and a block to kick the camera out away from the post. I may also figure out a way to raise it higher so I can use the Kodak Projection lens. I have a few ideas for that.

Francois · « **Reply #547 on:** November 28, 2021, 09:15:34 PM »

This so reminds me of my first DIY 4x5 enlarger!
I used a Burke & James monorail and a hand made light box...
To use the longer lenses you will want to make a lens cone to get the glass further away from the negatives. That's the way they do it on my Omega D-II.
For the light you might want to look into an LED panel or something like that. But be aware that the paper relies on an incandescent bulb for the grade calibration. So drifting from that will mess things up. In my enlargers I use some warm white 100w equivalent LED's and have had no problems so far.

Bryan · « **Reply #548 on:** November 28, 2021, 09:56:14 PM »

Quote from: Francois on November 28, 2021, 09:15:34 PM

This so reminds me of my first DIY 4x5 enlarger!
I used a Burke & James monorail and a hand made light box...
To use the longer lenses you will want to make a lens cone to get the glass further away from the negatives. That's the way they do it on my Omega D-II.
For the light you might want to look into an LED panel or something like that. But be aware that the paper relies on an incandescent bulb for the grade calibration. So drifting from that will mess things up. In my enlargers I use some warm white 100w equivalent LED's and have had no problems so far.

With the longer lens I can get the lens far enough away from the negative but that puts the lens too close to the paper. I'm going to look for an LED panel light that I can plug into my timer. The panel light I have right now is battery powered so I would have to use the shutter on the lens. I didn't want to do that because it could cause some shake with my rickety setup. Another option would be to build something to get the lamp a little farther from the negative.

Francois · « **Reply #549 on:** November 29, 2021, 02:10:06 PM »

Or just custom build something out of cardboard.