Topic: Using movie (or any other) film loaded into 35mm cans by someone else

[Kayos]

I recently bought some re-spooled Kodak movie film, that had already had the remjet removed, quite excited as I thought it would be an easy way to get good colour film cheap.
So far it isn't really, even accepting the "its experimental film" caveat I am unimpressed

Roll 1 (250 daylight, shot at 320) was rolled into a 24 exp can, the DX code wasn't covered but the "24" was so I didn't know, loaded into my EOS 3 for accurate metering it rewound at 24, then came out very purple and thin. I put the first down to an oversight and the second down to me, but now I'm not so sure

Roll 2 (500 tungsten, shot at 640) was shot in a non DX camera and I did get 36 shots, however regardless of the lighting the colours were just flat, I can buy Poundland film if I want to tweak every shot in Lightroom

Roll 3 (250 daylight, shot at 320) again shot in a non DX camera, did feel a bit tight on the advance but nothing scary, got to shot 32 however and it went very tight, so I left it, when I tried to rewind however it snapped, I've shot many rolls with this camera and never had this before. I unloaded in a darkbag, there was only a stub of film left so wasnt even 36 exposures
When developing it came out very purple and thin (like roll 1) however i also developed a roll of Fuji Superia at the same time (in the same tank, so exact same chemicals and agitation) and that is spot on

I'm not claiming to be a C41 veteran but I have around 100 films I have developed myself so I'm not a beginner either, I'm guessing the daylight stuff doesn't like my chems.

I don't think i will be buying any more, as 2 out of 3 rolls have had problems caused by the loading into old cans and the one that worked was underwhelming to say the least

I'm going to try  the Kodak Vision in my freezer and remove the remjet after shooting, at the minute tho I'm in no rush

For now I will stick to commercial film, or roll my own in proper reusable cans, as I don't get any of the snagging or DX problems listed above

[Indofunk]

So far, I've gotten all my bulk loaded film from James, and they've all turned out great A+++++ seller would buy again

[jharr]

HA! Thanks Satish. I have completely given up on my Watson daylight loader (the frame counter never worked right) and now I just do it all in the dark by hand.

As for shooting movie film, I agree that it is a bit hit and miss. I just developed 2 rolls of expired Fuji Eterna 500T. I shot them both at iso 400. The shots in full sun came out pretty good exposure-wise. Shots taken in the shade were all very under-exposed. Shots taken indoors are a mixed bag. I hand meter, so the exposure should be consistent. Not sure what is happening there. I removed the remjet with washing soda before developing (shake and bake method). There are some strange color swirls that I imagine are from the remjet removal step, but I'm not 100% sure.

Here is one that came out okay on the exposure and the color is good (to me). You can see some yellowish smears.

FTn-Eterna400-007 by James Harr, on Flickr

This one was taken in the shady evening light. Exposure is poor and the chemical flaws are much more pronounced. I still sort of like these, even with their obvious technical problems. This film is good, but seems to be a bit on the unpredictable side.

FTn-Eterna400-018 by James Harr, on Flickr

[Kayos]

All tho I have only done 2 rolls, as it's technically cross processed in C41 I'm wondering if it doesn't like the Digibase kit I use?

I have a truly ancient film loader and it seems spot on, but I only use re-usable cans, until the felt starts wearing then I bin them

[jharr]

I use Unicolor which seems to be a good general purpose kit (no separate bleach, so no bleach bypass option).

[Peter84]

Where did you buy the film with the remjet pre-removed? The only one I know that's doing that so far is Cinestill, I'd love to give other stuff a go.
FYI I've used the tetenal C41 kit on some vision 3 500T and it works out pretty well for me only that d*mn remjet keeps staining  the negs in a way that I can't seem to get it of.

I might try that washing soda tonight on a roll I shot this weekend

[Kayos]

This is the 320D, going to attempt scanning later

Cinevision 320d by Stuart Burrows, on Flickr

The tungsten stuff seems to work, it just (imo) needs a lot of post processing



https://kayosphotography.wordpress.com/2015/07/30/cinevision-film/ for more

It came from Cinevision, I think the link is in the for sale section

[Francois]

I guess it's not for me.
I don't see the point in spending hours on Photoshop to fix something that could have been perfect on the first go...

[Late Developer]

Recently, whilst in "The Photographer's Gallery" in London, I failed to resist temptation and bought a 36 Roll of CineStill 800 Tungsten.  Other than the little I've read on FW, I have no real knowledge of how best to use it - save for the fact that I should use an 81B filter if I want to correct the tungsten balance.  However, as I intend using it at twilight / dusk, this seems a bit pointless as (a) the filter will rob a stop of much needed light and (b) the effect of using tungsten-balanced film might be interesting when photographing London's city lights.

However, it definitely says to process in C41 chems.  I'm assuming that's right.  Anyone got any examples of dusk / night-time shots without colour correction and processed in C41?

[Francois]

I remember that in the old Film show they had an entire episode where they used the film and the results were definitely good. It might be worth revisiting that show before burning through the roll. It's on YouTube.
Also, they didn't use any correction filter.

[Terry]

I was talking about this with a filmmaker friend (who always processes his own footage) this past weekend.  He said he used to use hypo clearing agent to remove the remjet from b&w film.

[Peter84]

Recently, whilst in "The Photographer's Gallery" in London, I failed to resist temptation and bought a 36 Roll of CineStill 800 Tungsten.  Other than the little I've read on FW, I have no real knowledge of how best to use it - save for the fact that I should use an 81B filter if I want to correct the tungsten balance.  However, as I intend using it at twilight / dusk, this seems a bit pointless as (a) the filter will rob a stop of much needed light and (b) the effect of using tungsten-balanced film might be interesting when photographing London's city lights.

However, it definitely says to process in C41 chems.  I'm assuming that's right.  Anyone got any examples of dusk / night-time shots without colour correction and processed in C41?

This is from my recent trip to london, Cinestill 800T at night time, shot with my AE-1 and vivitar 28mm wide open at F2.5 at 1/30 f I remember correctly, This roll was also push developed two stops to 3200 with a tetenal c41 kit. It is expensive but if you can do stuff like that it's almost worth it.... 

[Francois]

I know that since it's lacking that ah layer, it tends to make neon signs look especially good...

[Indofunk]

Recently, whilst in "The Photographer's Gallery" in London, I failed to resist temptation and bought a 36 Roll of CineStill 800 Tungsten.  Other than the little I've read on FW, I have no real knowledge of how best to use it - save for the fact that I should use an 81B filter if I want to correct the tungsten balance.  However, as I intend using it at twilight / dusk, this seems a bit pointless as (a) the filter will rob a stop of much needed light and (b) the effect of using tungsten-balanced film might be interesting when photographing London's city lights.

However, it definitely says to process in C41 chems.  I'm assuming that's right.  Anyone got any examples of dusk / night-time shots without colour correction and processed in C41?

Cinestill was built to be shot at nighttime in a city, imo


Your stereotypical Soho at night in the rain car commercial by Satish Indofunk, on Flickr


Waiting by Satish Indofunk, on Flickr

[Peter84]

Cinestill was built to be shot at nighttime in a city, imo

You'd almost think kodak would have developed the film specially for that.... 

[Kayos]

I still have 2 rolls of the 640T tungsten stuff if anybody would like it, maybe on a swap basis?

The tungsten rolls I shot both worked and developed as expected