Topic: Pyro Film Devs.

[monofan17]

I have long considered using a Pyro film dev, but a few things put me off them.

1, I don't want to presoak before pouring in the dev.

2, I like to use normal room temperature rather than warming up to 24C.
Those are what is recommended for some of the pyro developers I have looked up.

3, I don't want to mix from raw chems.

For those who use Prescysol or Moersch or self mixed, what benefits do you see over regular film developers like ID11, HC110 or Perceptol?

[imagesfrugales]

I never used pyro because it's probably one of the most poisonous developers for man and environment.

[jojonas~]

have you tried caffenol? maybe that might suit your itch

[jharr]

have you tried caffenol? maybe that might suit your itch

Not sure if that was sarcasm or not Jonas, but Reinhold is responsible for getting caffenol on the map for most of us. His experiments and blog showed that this 'green' developer was really a very good choice for most films.

I have never used pyro for the reasons both you and Reinhold have stated. There are perfectly good devs out there that aren't going to endanger me or the water table.

[Francois]

For me, the only reason to use something like PMK is it's eternal shelf life. You can take some century old pyro developer and it will still work like new.

But when you think about it, if something keeps for that long it can't possibly be good for you!

[imagesfrugales]

  good jokes are always welcome  Jonas and I we go back a quite long virtual way.

[jharr]

good jokes are always welcome  Jonas and I we go back a quite long virtual way.

HA! I thought maybe that was the case, but I am good at sticking my nose where it doesn't belong. 

[Andrej K]

I have been using Moersch Tanol for some time (now I have switched to Pyrocat HD for LF negs, but I may get back to Wolfgang).
The difference for the eye is not that big, but I have to say that the Tanol negatives print more easily - less fiddling with finding the correct grade... Often a scene that from a normal neg would need to be printed split grade prints nicely in a normal way when done in Tanol (other pyro dev.)

I am not sure if it would be a benefit if someone is just scanning their negatives. I don't do that. But for wet printing there is a benefit - and especially for larger negs that when done in pyro they print nice both on regular silver paper as well as under UV like a kallitype...

[jojonas~]

good jokes are always welcome  Jonas and I we go back a quite long virtual way.

HA! I thought maybe that was the case, but I am good at sticking my nose where it doesn't belong. 

hehe, it's fine.

not only a joke though as I've seen some peeps just wanting pyro for that staining effect and that can be done in a way with caffenol if you hold the citric acid. I might be out on deep pyro waters saying that though

[monofan17]

I have been using Moersch Tanol for some time (now I have switched to Pyrocat HD for LF negs, but I may get back to Wolfgang).
The difference for the eye is not that big, but I have to say that the Tanol negatives print more easily - less fiddling with finding the correct grade... Often a scene that from a normal neg would need to be printed split grade prints nicely in a normal way when done in Tanol (other pyro dev.)

I am not sure if it would be a benefit if someone is just scanning their negatives. I don't do that. But for wet printing there is a benefit - and especially for larger negs that when done in pyro they print nice both on regular silver paper as well as under UV like a kallitype...

Thank you, I will take a look at Tanol.