Topic: First time developing color film

[huevos_rancheros]

I just developed my first roll, all went well! I'm in the midst of drying. I used Tetenal C-41 Press Kit, i have read on the directions that just a drop of blix will kill the developer. While developing, being my first time, when i went to put my developer back i used a clean measuring tube to pour back in my bottle, after that without washing i used the same measuring tube to pour the blix back. is that okay or did i ruin the blix?

[Fluminian]

You can't ruin the blix with that. In some kits like Rollei Digibase you use chemicals one after the other with no rinse in between.

[huevos_rancheros]

Thanks!!! I developed some 30+ vericolorii, cant wait to check it out!

[jojonas~]

I guess the developer is the most sensetive one?
either way, you should be fine but some water washing between each chem is a good routine.

looking forward to those vericolor shots! they can still shine if you're lucky

[Fluminian]

Yes, the developer is the most sensitive part of the kit. So, it must be kept 100% clean.

[Verian]

I use the Tetenal kit and have found it to be very good. I use the longer developing length, I think it's 8 minutes at 30 degrees, which has been fine for me, I'm not sure why I prefer longer developing times, I'm the same with B&W.

[Francois]

The order in which the chemicals are poured is always an indication of which chems can be contaminated and which can't.
The order is pretty much the same in b&w. Dev  can't contaminate stop but stop will kill dev.

[huevos_rancheros]

I use the Tetenal kit and have found it to be very good. I use the longer developing length, I think it's 8 minutes at 30 degrees, which has been fine for me, I'm not sure why I prefer longer developing times, I'm the same with B&W.

30 Celsius or Fahrenheit?

I'll try going a little longer next time to see how i like it, thanks!

& thanks to everyone else, glad i didnt ruin the kit!

[Francois]

Obviously Celsius.
30°F is below the freezing point of water

[Verian]

30 Celsius. I think that's 86 Fahrenheit.

[huevos_rancheros]

Obviously Celsius.
30°F is below the freezing point of water

Haha.
Well, its too late now, i already threw my chems in the freezer!

[Terry]

I'm wondering what the people who've used the Tetenal kit think of dividing up the dry chemicals in half and bagging them, so as to make 500ml per batch.  It would mean I could process 4-5 rolls in one go and not waste the remaining chemistry....

[Francois]

I'm wondering the same thing...
It could keep thing going for longer provided the pouches contain a uniform granulate and not various products of varying weight that could make the chemistry uneven in some way.

[Terry]

I was thinking of using a little scale I picked up--accurate to .1G.  I'd imagine that would be precise enough  The smallest quantity involved is 5 grams, and that's the stabilizer, which I imagine is least likely to go bad.  Could I make up the full liter of stabilizer and store it cold, but make up 500ml batches of the developer and blix as I need them?

PS--I take your point, Francois, about uniformity.  maybe I'd give the packets a good shake before dividing the contents!

[Indofunk]

I've mixed up 2x 500mL using both the liquid Tetenal kit and the powder Unicolor kit. In fact, I'm on the second half of my Unicolor kit right now. I stored those powders in the original foil bags (after I'd measured out half) and bagged those foil bags in plastic Ziplock type bags. I think they were probably sitting like that for about a month, then I mixed them and they've been going for at least 10 rolls so far, I'm about to do 2 more tonight then toss the chems.

That said, I'm just going to mix up the full liter of the new Unicolor kit I just got. I don't think it's worth the trouble dividing it, since I've been going through about maybe 6 rolls of color a month? So if I could make the entire liter last for 2 months and do 12-15 rolls I'd feel satisfied.

Oh, MAJOR caveat here: When you measure out the powdered chems, MAKE SURE THERE IS PLENTY AND I MEAN PLENTY OF VENTILATION.  I did not know to do this last time and I think I felt my life get shorter by a decade. Once those powders hit the air they're no joke!

[Kayos]

I use the Digibase kit, got 5l on the way but I will only mix 1l at a time and store in accordion bottles, only one to watch is part of the developer, have to keep the concentrate air tight or it goes bad

[Terry]

Thanks for the ideas.  Thinking I may spring for a respirator mask and lab goggles!  (Only half joking...)

[Francois]

It is very highly recommended to use at least a dust mask for fine particles and goggles.

One thing you could do is weigh your ziplock and reset the scale with it on and then add the content of the packet as both bags are taped mouth to mouth... that should prevent much of the dust from getting airborne.

[Terry]

I'm thinking of doing the transfer with a lab spoon to minimize dust and wearing a mask

[Indofunk]

Definitely wear a mask. I think I can still feel the chems in my lungs from 2 months ago.

[Terry]

I think maybe I'll try my first idea (before the slice-and-dice-the-chemicals one):  I'll make up a liter but divide in two 500ml brown bottles.  Then I'll see when it runs out of juice.  What Satish is saying makes me think that I may get weeks of use out of my liter--and if exposure to air is what depletes it over time, keeping it in a tightly capped 500ml bottle (full up) might well extend the useful life.

[huevos_rancheros]

Ill have to get a mask next time, it was pretty intense when i was pouring them in, but i had semi decent ventilation in my bathroom.

What do you guys think about what they have written on the instructions about the life of the chemicals being good for 8 120mm or 35mm(36) runs? Has anybody pushed it to 10+ rolls with good results, or does it never look as good?

[Indofunk]

I've been mixing up 1/2 liters, and dev'ing 10-12 rolls per 500mL. So that's 20-24 rolls per liter. I'm not positive that I can dev a full 24 rolls if I mix up a full liter, because of the time it would take me to actually shoot 24 rolls, but if I can get 15 or 16 rolls out of a liter I think I'd be happy.

[moominsean]

At worse you just thinned out the blix, making it less effective. You might want to add a couple minutes to the blix next time.

[huevos_rancheros]

Okay cool, i have around 10 old rolls i shot a few years back so i have stuff to get on for sure.

That's one think im confused about, & just looked up on some random flickr conversation, the guy was saying add 1:06 mins to development after every roll, is that viable?

Also if that is the case my other question is, should i be doing that with the blix in some way or the same way as well?

[Francois]

What do you guys think about what they have written on the instructions about the life of the chemicals being good for 8 120mm or 35mm(36) runs? Has anybody pushed it to 10+ rolls with good results, or does it never look as good?

I know we had a member (chemic al) who used the chems for a good 6 months... I think he kept the chemistry refrigerated. After so much use, the film gets weird weak colors but the scanner can easily fix things. The maximum usage is for those who do optical prints and want a consistent filter pack.

[Terry]

I guess I shouldn't get obsessive about it; if I get ten or twelve rolls per liter that's still good value.

[Francois]

If I did my C-41, I'd probably be squeezing the life out of the chems just like I squeeze the very last drop of toothpaste out of the tube!

Why? ... just because I'm frugal I guess...

[jharr]

Yeah, if color accuracy is your goal, follow the mauf. recommendations, but if you are like me and are cross processing expired film to begin with, use the chems til they are obviously going bad, like the negs are getting too thin.

[Indofunk]

If I did my C-41, I'd probably be squeezing the life out of the chems just like I squeeze the very last drop of toothpaste out of the tube!

Why? ... just because I'm frugal I guess...

You and I are alike! Although I prefer the term "cheap" I tend to use my C41 chems till they kick out a blank roll. As happened just yesterday as a matter of fact

[Francois]

Do a leader test first...

[Indofunk]

Do a leader test first...

Someone here (possibly you) advised me to do that a while ago, and I told myself I'd add that to my routine but never did. From now on, definite leader test every time

[huevos_rancheros]

Just read up on the differences of C-16 & C-41, i kinda get it, is it just fujis name for c-41? i loaded my hand tank with some  fuji 400pro, it says c-16 & c4-1 on the label. i noticed this all after i loaded it in my tank.
 Should be okay, yeah?

[original_ann]

That's one think im confused about, & just looked up on some random flickr conversation, the guy was saying add 1:06 mins to development after every roll, is that viable?

I use this kit and add 15 secs to the development times with subsequent runs.   How did your Vericolor II turn out?

[x100art]

Definitely wear a mask. I think I can still feel the chems in my lungs from 2 months ago.

Couldn't agree more, I'm still a little nervous for my last mixing of the powders, but everything went fine and the negatives after I scanned them came out looking great. I just don't like the powder it does seem they go airborne but I don't think I inhaled anything but I'm still a little nervous. Good thing my local Costco still develops C-41 35 mm for a $1.59 a roll. I'll think I'll go that route into they stop developing film.


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[Photo_Utopia]

Just read up on the differences of C-16 & C-41, i kinda get it, is it just fujis name for c-41? i loaded my hand tank with some  fuji 400pro, it says c-16 & c4-1 on the label. i noticed this all after i loaded it in my tank.
 Should be okay, yeah?

For Colour Negative process
Fuji CN16 is the same as Kodak C41 which is the same as Agfa AP70

For Colour Slides
Fuji CR56 is the same as Koak E6 which is the Same as Agfa AP44
So yes you'll be OK.