Author Topic: Total Newbie Developer Queries  (Read 8035 times)

p4portra

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Total Newbie Developer Queries
« on: September 25, 2014, 11:05:02 PM »
I am interested in learning to develop HP5.

Is someone able to recommend a setup that would allow me to develop and scan my own films? I am not interested in enlarging/printing at this stage.

I would rather not compromise on quality, but would be good to understand what the options are at each of the following levels:

1. Just get the job done, compromised quality
2. Get the job done, good results with practise but not necessarily fast
3. All the gear, no idea!

Indofunk

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Re: Total Newbie Developer Queries
« Reply #1 on: September 25, 2014, 11:55:26 PM »
I have perhaps the least developing experience here, so I'm going to go ahead and qualify myself to be the first person to reply :D

Glad you're starting with B&W. Very little need to temperature-control it. A friend of mine dived right into C41 and hit it out of the park right away, that would've scared me if I hadn't had B&W experience first.

So you're gonna need a Paterson tank with a reel (they come with 2), and a changing bag to load up the film. Then you'll need a couple of graduated pitchers to mix up the chemicals, then the chemicals themselves. Developer, stop bath, fixer. You got lots of choices for developer, everyone has their favorites, I've tried D76, Rodinal, and HC110 and settled on HC110. Look up a bunch of HP5 photos on Flickr, find out what developer was used, choose your favorite. Or just get Rodinal, because it will develop anything (I'm gonna copyright that phrase one of these days ;) ). Then finally get a couple of jugs to store the stop and fix in, since they can be reused. I got all of my equipment from http://freestylephoto.biz

The development process itself is fairly simple, you can Google it for all sorts of tutorials, as well as recommended dilutions and times. So I'm going to assume that you have developed, dried film at this point. To digitize them, you can use a scanner (I have an Epson V500 flatbed that works great), or some people use a DSLR or even a cellphone with a backlight and precise control over the distance from the negative. That seems to work out great for those who use that method, so if you have a DSLR or cellphone, you might want to look into doing that.

I think all told I spent about $150 on development supplies, $100 on the scanner (refurb'd) and I was up and running. Good luck!
« Last Edit: September 25, 2014, 11:58:13 PM by Indofunk »

timor

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Re: Total Newbie Developer Queries
« Reply #2 on: September 26, 2014, 12:08:07 AM »
You are presenting us with an interesting problem. developing own film is not that straight forward as people think. Yes, it is, if you do not care for the quality, just to have some images. For the past century and a half photographers are trying to find the gold solution to that problem, but, as Gary Ayala said:
"You haven't a clue how B&W film can be more craft and artistry than science."
Any advice we will give you, it may work or not for you.
Let start with questions, do you have any space you can darken out, just for the time to put film into developing tank ? Are you ready to waste few roll for the process of learning the basics ? What camera do you have ? This is an important question as the good development of film starts with good exposure and here the gear, it's physical state, is of paramount importance. If your gear is wanky and every time the shutter speed is inconsistent or aperture is closing each time differently there is no way, to get proper results. And down the road is more variable which will have influence on the outcome of development.

Bryan

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Re: Total Newbie Developer Queries
« Reply #3 on: September 26, 2014, 12:19:00 AM »
I agree with Indofunk on the Black and White, I'm new at developing as well.  I do Semi-stand development with Rodinal, it's easy and I like the results even though they may not be professional quality.  I have a lot of fun doing it but I still have a lot to learn.  I don't have a dark room, I load the film into a developing tank in a film changing bag and use the sink and counter in my laundry room to slosh the chemicals around.  This is a great tutorial on Stand development:
http://jbhildebrand.com/2011/tutorials/workflow-tutorial-2-stand-development-with-rodinal/

I use a digital camera to scan my negatives.  I use my iPad as a light table with a piece of white translucent plastic to diffuse the pixels.  If you don't use the plastic you will be able to see the pixels through the negative.

Adam Doe

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Re: Total Newbie Developer Queries
« Reply #4 on: September 26, 2014, 12:19:06 AM »
To add to Indofunk's suggestions, if you have a smartphone you can get the Massive Dev Chart app. It has lots of developing times for different combinations of films and developers. It also has a timer app, that is quite useful as it will count the times for all the steps Dev, stop, fix, hypo, rinse. It will even remind you when to agitate. Very handy for when you are first starting out. Once you've done a dozen rolls it gets quite easy. Best of luck and please share some of your results with us. Also remember Rodinal, it will develop anything ©Indofunk.

Indofunk

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Re: Total Newbie Developer Queries
« Reply #5 on: September 26, 2014, 12:23:45 AM »
Also remember Rodinal, it will develop anything ©Indofunk.

Thank you  :D

timor

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Re: Total Newbie Developer Queries
« Reply #6 on: September 26, 2014, 12:37:22 AM »
Also remember Rodinal, it will develop anything ©Indofunk.

Thank you  :D
So does D76 and every other developer in the world. Heck, use a coffee (instant), it is effective to.

Indofunk

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Re: Total Newbie Developer Queries
« Reply #7 on: September 26, 2014, 12:40:18 AM »
Also remember Rodinal, it will develop anything ©Indofunk.

Thank you  :D
So does D76 and every other developer in the world. Heck, use a coffee (instant), it is effective to.

The difference with other developers is that you have to let it soup for a certain amount of time, at a certain concentration, depending on the film used and the speed at which it is shot. Rodinal 1:100 for an hour will develop any film shot at any speed and it'll look pretty much as good as it will ever get.

timor

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Re: Total Newbie Developer Queries
« Reply #8 on: September 26, 2014, 12:56:50 AM »
Also remember Rodinal, it will develop anything ©Indofunk.

Thank you  :D
So does D76 and every other developer in the world. Heck, use a coffee (instant), it is effective to.

The difference with other developers is that you have to let it soup for a certain amount of time, at a certain concentration, depending on the film used and the speed at which it is shot. Rodinal 1:100 for an hour will develop any film shot at any speed and it'll look pretty much as good as it will ever get.
How long are doing this ? Film development ? If that would be the truth life would be boring. Luckily this is far from it.

Indofunk

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Re: Total Newbie Developer Queries
« Reply #9 on: September 26, 2014, 01:13:19 AM »
Also remember Rodinal, it will develop anything ©Indofunk.

Thank you  :D
So does D76 and every other developer in the world. Heck, use a coffee (instant), it is effective to.

The difference with other developers is that you have to let it soup for a certain amount of time, at a certain concentration, depending on the film used and the speed at which it is shot. Rodinal 1:100 for an hour will develop any film shot at any speed and it'll look pretty much as good as it will ever get.
How long are doing this ? Film development ? If that would be the truth life would be boring. Luckily this is far from it.

See my original post. MUCH less time than you've been developing! :D I know very little and post from ignorance! This is after all the internet!

limr

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Re: Total Newbie Developer Queries
« Reply #10 on: September 26, 2014, 01:51:06 AM »
Satish, I think I might have been developing for less time than you. I have been doing my own black and white for exactly one year, come the 29th of September, and I still don't do my own color. So I might have to take the title from you ;)

But since it has been mentioned, there are a number of Caffenol devotees here, so I'm sure it will be mentioned in more detail at some point. It's a great developer anyway, but also a very good choice if there is any concern over the disposal of the developer. You still need traditional fixer, but that lasts for a while, and water is used as a stop bath, so you're only dealing with disposal of fixer. This isn't an issue for some, but it's one of the reasons I use Caffenol exclusively. Not the only reason, mind you. After a year, it still amazes me that I put a soup based on instant coffee into a tank, and out comes developed negatives!

Developing might eventually lose its magic, but I still get such a kick out of it :)
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timor

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Re: Total Newbie Developer Queries
« Reply #11 on: September 26, 2014, 02:02:57 AM »

See my original post. MUCH less time than you've been developing! :D I know very little and post from ignorance! This is after all the internet!
Don't ridicule this forum pls.  ;D You just used a global statement and there are no global statements in film developing. I know, there is a big fun club of Rodinal users or, for that matter D76 users, but that hype was created by Internet. There is simplicity and low cost involved in using this developers, but, if you look around very few famous photographers actually used them. And there is a good reason for that. But of course, for starters this is a good stuff. For HP5 Rodinal might be to rough. Rodinal patented some 128 years ago was formulated for ultra large format, for negatives of the size of finished print. D76 was created for cinema industry to replace unreliable staining developers. Turned out it was unreliable as well and went out of use only two years after introduction. Remaining stock was dumped on still photography market for cheap price and became the most popular developer. It doesn't mean it is the best. It is satisfactory, but by no means infinitely satisfying.
For starters I would propose rather HC 110 in dilution of 6 to 8 ml per 300 ml of working solution and 10 to 11 minutes of development in 20 C with moderate agitation. Prolonged wetting of HP5 will cause it's emulsion to become so swollen and so soft, that every darn speck of dust gonna sink in it during the drying, not to mention things like dislocation of grains of silver, cracks and easy scratching.
« Last Edit: September 26, 2014, 02:05:05 AM by timor »

jharr

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Re: Total Newbie Developer Queries
« Reply #12 on: September 26, 2014, 04:16:58 AM »
Timor, please correct me if I'm wrong, but it sounds like you are coming from the perspective of printing photos. I agree that for that work, precision and accuracy are vitally important to create the highest quality of negative possible. However, for those of us who scan our negatives, the process is much more forgiving. I generally do stand development with either Rodinal or Caffenol with 35, 120 and 4x5 film. I have yet to have this process fail. It worked the first time I tried it after reading a few blog tutorials. It is dead simple and with the right film, the negatives are absolutely gorgeous. The latitude of modern films coupled with stand development make it fairly difficult to really screw up the exposure. Most of my shutters are off by as much as 1/2 stop at higher speeds, but I have never noticed it on the negative. I've never used HP5, but Acros 100 and Caffenol stand development give imperceptible grain and good accutance. The tonal range is long and silky smooth. The scans come out gorgeous and if I've done my part behind the camera, the quality approaches what a "professional" can achieve. The bottom line is to start out with a process that will work consistently, even if your technique is not. After some successes, you can decide whether you want to take it to the next level of precision that is necessary for wet printing.

P4portra, Satish's equipment list is a little heavy for my taste. I use the cheapest graduated measuring cups I can find for well, measuring. I use a 10mL syringe that came with my ink jet printer to measure small volumes. I store my 'keepable' solutions in plastic 1L bottles covered in gaffer's tape. The one piece of 'brand name' equipment I have is the Patterson developing tank, and a MOD54 film holder. Just jump in and develop a roll. You will succeed, don't worry.
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mcduff

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Total Newbie Developer Queries
« Reply #13 on: September 26, 2014, 04:37:14 AM »
Haha the advice is all over the place which I think shows that everyone gets their own groove for it and finds a process that fits their workflow and general temperament ;-)

I have been doing this for a while and I am the unfortunate mixture of lazy and wanting predictable results. I will add to the hc-110 cheers as for me hc-110 is my fave beginner developer (and it really is the only one I use - I do have some xtol I wanna try tho). I like hc-110 because it is a syrup that is quite stable when it is not dilluted, not too toxic (ok maybe not as benign as caffenol haha but close), easy to get and cheap.

I have done stand development but like doing it the normal way of timing. I like getting the job done and if you are not using a lot of films it makes for a workflow that is not really that confusing and fast. It seems like stand is popular now but maybe I am an old dog in this regard ;-)

I am not printing now but "shoot for a print" - I intend to get back into printing and will want to print some of these old negs. So I want a neg that will have a tonal range that is worthy of a print  - I don't always get that tho haha.

Note: edited as I incorrectly said "worthy if a scan" not "worthy of a print" as intended. 

« Last Edit: September 26, 2014, 06:51:41 AM by mcduff »
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timor

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Re: Total Newbie Developer Queries
« Reply #14 on: September 26, 2014, 07:39:48 AM »
Timor, please correct me if I'm wrong, but it sounds like you are coming from the perspective of printing photos. I agree that for that work, precision and accuracy are vitally important to create the highest quality of negative possible. However, for those of us who scan our negatives, the process is much more forgiving.
Well noticed, James, about me, wet printing.  :) Preparing negative for that is maybe somewhat different, than for scanning. I don't scan, I can't tell. However I don't think it is in general that much different. The rules are the same: capture maximum of dynamic range, capture maximum of detail, achieve maximum sharpness inside the DoF and achieve minimum of grain unless grain is desired.
Maximum DR is easy, enough to have something totally black and totally white and we have span from zone 0 to 10. Problem is, how many zones we captured in between. Rodinal is not the best in doing that, it is too contrasty, it was made for materials, which were lacking contrast comparing with modern negative materials. With too much contrast something will go missing, will be it detail in shadows or in highlights depending on exposition. However it is good for negs shot in soft light conditions with not much of DR span, 4-5 zones. I achieved best results pairing Rodinal with Agfa APX 100, but that was before I discovered real capabilities of HC 110. I was never really impressed with negs from stand in Rodinal, they seems to be way too thick. Yes, they look great when I look at them against light, but under enlarger problems associated with over development were well too obvious. In scanning it is maybe not too bad as scanner software is correcting some of them and after that there is always PS to "correct" a bit more. You James, maybe not notice it that much as your film of choice has thin, tabular emulsion, but HP5 with thick, silver rich emulsion will suffer from strong physical development which is a good part of Rodinal stand method. Much better for HP5 is Stoeckler, very simple, two bath, also fully"automatic" developer, yet one, which gives real compensation,  better retention of detail and smaller grain. However it, as Rodinal stand, is devoid from any control over what it is actually doing. Another belief is, that Rodinal stand will correct deficiencies of the exposure. Well, grain not exposed to light will be not developed, however base fog may be mistaken for part of image. Consequently grain over exposed will be overdeveloped and base fog will only exaggerate that fact. In general the idea is to achieve negative as thin as it is possible without loosing any detail in any zone. Doesn't it sounds like something perfect for scanning ? It is certainly close to perfect for printing.
What I mean with all this here is' if we are here to waste some film, let's waste it with honor, trying to understand the process and to control it for the results we want to achieve, not, what comes out.

timor

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Re: Total Newbie Developer Queries
« Reply #15 on: September 26, 2014, 07:50:55 AM »

I have been doing this for a while and I am the unfortunate mixture of lazy and wanting predictable results. I will add to the hc-110 cheers as for me hc-110 is my fave beginner developer (and it really is the only one I use - I do have some xtol I wanna try tho). I like hc-110 because it is a syrup that is quite stable when it is not dilluted, not too toxic (ok maybe not as benign as caffenol haha but close), easy to get and cheap.
HC 110 is for everybody and for basic to advanced developing methods. Methods D76 or Rodinal can't do. If you interested let me know.  ;D

Chalky

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Re: Total Newbie Developer Queries
« Reply #16 on: September 26, 2014, 09:20:48 AM »
I'm a total beginner, and don't do that much, so use ilfosol3 as it is a one shot developer which you use then throw away, rather than use multiple times, which removes the shelf life issue slightly. It's also made by ilford so presumably Ok for HP5.

good luck :-) 

gsgary

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Re: Total Newbie Developer Queries
« Reply #17 on: September 26, 2014, 09:52:23 AM »
One of the best developers for HP5 is DDX when I get home ill post some shots with different developers and how I processed it where abouts in the UK are you based ? If near to me you could come round when I'm developing to see how I do it, within the next few weeks I will be printing

Photo_Utopia

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Re: Total Newbie Developer Queries
« Reply #18 on: September 26, 2014, 11:30:15 AM »
I am interested in learning to develop HP5.

Is someone able to recommend a setup that would allow me to develop and scan my own films? I am not interested in enlarging/printing at this stage.

I would rather not compromise on quality, but would be good to understand what the options are at each of the following levels:

1. Just get the job done, compromised quality
2. Get the job done, good results with practise but not necessarily fast
3. All the gear, no idea!

To develop HP5 you'll need:

A dark place (and I mean DARK) to load film in tanks.
A developing tank (I use Patteson system 4 universal that does 120 and 35mm)
Some developer (A simple liquid type is a good place to start any brand will do)
Some rapid fixer ( liquid like Ilfofix)
A wetting agent (Ilford or even weak washing up liquid) for final bath.
A measuring cylinder 600ml-1l size ideal.
A thermometer scale 20°C-38°C is nice.

Keep it simple, developer types/brands are irrelevant for your first go, I developed my first film under the stairs at the age of 13 I'm now much older.
Ilford has a nice developing your first film on their site
http://www.ilfordphoto.com/aboutus/page.asp?n=31

just follow it for now, later you'll be able to try the funky stuff out like stand developing etc but for now just stick to 'mr average' methodology.

Have fun.
There's more to this photography thing than meets the eye.

p4portra

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Re: Total Newbie Developer Queries
« Reply #19 on: September 26, 2014, 12:16:40 PM »
Right. I've only just come back to this thread... A lot of stuff to consume for someone that knows very little about development, but I think I have an understanding of what is required! I understand that this is more of an art than a science, but I am definitely interested in learning.

It sounds like the main points of contention are which solutions etc. but recognise that this is part choice of film/personal preference/experience etc.

I watched the following videos which were also very helpful:

http://erickimphotography.com/blog/2014/05/10/introduction-to-darkroom-film-developing-and-printing-with-taylan-bagci-in-istanbul

It sounds like I need to buy this:

http://www.ag-photographic.co.uk/paterson-film-processing-kit-2562-p.asp

And then maybe this:

- Ilford Ilfotec DD–X
- Ilford Ilfostop
- Ilford Rapid Fixer
- Ilford Ilfotol

@gsgary - I am based in Kent. What about you?

gsgary

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Re: Total Newbie Developer Queries
« Reply #20 on: September 26, 2014, 12:32:42 PM »
Derbyshire

p4portra

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Re: Total Newbie Developer Queries
« Reply #21 on: September 26, 2014, 12:40:24 PM »
Derbyshire

LOL

Ok, that's a long way from Kent; And much more beautiful by all accounts... Are you in/near the Peak District?

gsgary

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Re: Total Newbie Developer Queries
« Reply #22 on: September 26, 2014, 12:42:03 PM »
10 minutes by car, my partner is going hunting on her horse tomorrow so should have some nice shots to show next week

Photo_Utopia

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Re: Total Newbie Developer Queries
« Reply #23 on: September 26, 2014, 12:44:41 PM »


- Ilford Ilfotec DD–X
- Ilford Ilfostop
- Ilford Rapid Fixer
- Ilford Ilfotol

All those will be just fine for your first try, DDX is a 'full speed' or even speed enhancing developer I get EI 640 from HP5 with it. Ilfosol is a good alternative and is more 'bog standard' also you should note stop bath can be replaced with a water rinse if you wish.
« Last Edit: September 26, 2014, 12:47:09 PM by Photo_Utopia »
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mcduff

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Total Newbie Developer Queries
« Reply #24 on: September 26, 2014, 12:50:14 PM »
]C 110 is for everybody and for basic to advanced developing methods. Methods D76 or Rodinal can't do. If you interested let me know.  ;D
Timor I should have clarified that. I think hc-110 is excellent AND I think it is a great beginner developer. I may not be a pro but I certainly am no beginner in the darkroom ;-) and it still is the one I like to use.

(A disclaimer: I am not that experimental in the darkroom as I find chemicals and stick with them. Their could be better developers for different films but for what I shoot, fp4+, i like the look hc-110 gives me. As I said I gotta pack of xtol I gotta try, as an example)
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Re: Total Newbie Developer Queries
« Reply #25 on: September 26, 2014, 02:48:45 PM »
P4,
Like you, I had avoided developing my own film (even though I had done a lot of that as a kid).  A friend taught me stand development and that got me into the habit of developing in my kitchen.  That was six years ago, and I have drifted away from stand development although I do like one-shot developing.  I have come to like HC-110 though I still use Rodinal with certain films too.

But my point here is that stand developing in Rodinal is a great way to break the ice and start souping your own.  It may not yield the best (technical) quality but you'll get images, practically guaranteed.  And that can be addictive--the pleasure you get from unrolling wet negs and seeing the images for the first time is enormous and a hell of a confidence boost.  As you shoot more and develop more, you'll probably go for more subtle results, but stand developing is a great first step.

gsgary

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Re: Total Newbie Developer Queries
« Reply #26 on: September 26, 2014, 03:37:00 PM »
Some HP5 in DDX iso400





iso800



HP5 stand developed in Rodinal in the fridge


timor

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Re: Total Newbie Developer Queries
« Reply #27 on: September 26, 2014, 03:52:51 PM »
]C 110 is for everybody and for basic to advanced developing methods. Methods D76 or Rodinal can't do. If you interested let me know.  ;D
Timor I should have clarified that. I think hc-110 is excellent AND I think it is a great beginner developer. I may not be a pro but I certainly am no beginner in the darkroom ;-) and it still is the one I like to use.

(A disclaimer: I am not that experimental in the darkroom as I find chemicals and stick with them. Their could be better developers for different films but for what I shoot, fp4+, i like the look hc-110 gives me. As I said I gotta pack of xtol I gotta try, as an example)
;D Here we go. Glad to hear this. I also like the look HC110 generates, however my base film is Eastman Double X Negative, a ISO 250 movie stock film which I expose at ISO values from 50 to 500 but most likely at 160.  :)
You try this Xtol, your FP4 gonna like it and you to. IMO Xtol will give you different and very, very nice tonality. I like it to, however Xtol present a problem for me. Comes in 5 litre package, dissolved it may not keep too well and when it dies, it dies with scream, without warning. So I would be forced to use it fast (the last batch I made died after two months,) and I don't like that. With HC110 there is no such a problem. But you are right about me, I am very experimental, always looking for ways to make negatives better fitting my goals. Here I should assume a titel of grand master of film wasting  ;D As a matter of fact, last night, when I was writing my lengthy posts I was also developing piece of Tmax 100 in glycin based developer of my own design. And guess what, came out perfect, but in the process I used about 20 feet of film (not that all is bad, no no) to get the feel of my brew.  ;)


timor

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Re: Total Newbie Developer Queries
« Reply #28 on: September 26, 2014, 04:02:56 PM »
One of the best developers for HP5 is DDX when I get home ill post some shots with different developers and how I processed it where abouts in the UK are you based ? If near to me you could come round when I'm developing to see how I do it, within the next few weeks I will be printing
Hello Gary, yes, you're right about DDX and HP5, it's a good combo.
Nice pics. And too bad, I am sooo far from you. I would like to watch you printing.  ;) Did you look for Foma RC papers ?

gsgary

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Re: Total Newbie Developer Queries
« Reply #29 on: September 26, 2014, 04:09:49 PM »
Not yet im going to get back in the swing ot it with the cheap paper first been given a lovely Focomat 1c with a Walner colour head

timor

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Re: Total Newbie Developer Queries
« Reply #30 on: September 26, 2014, 04:22:20 PM »
Not yet im going to get back in the swing ot it with the cheap paper first been given a lovely Focomat 1c with a Walner colour head
Foma paper oaths to be cheap. Do you have list of filters settings for contrast values corresponding to #1,#2 and so on contrast values for paper ? It is good to know that, but off course colour head gives totally stepless  contrast settings. Which is a beauty.

gsgary

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Re: Total Newbie Developer Queries
« Reply #31 on: September 26, 2014, 04:24:47 PM »
I used to print at grade 5 which I believe is magenta @ 170

gsgary

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Re: Total Newbie Developer Queries
« Reply #32 on: September 26, 2014, 04:32:44 PM »
I used to print at grade 5 which I believe is magenta @ 170

This is what i'm getting to practise with http://www.firstcall-photographic.co.uk/products/4504/lucky-everyday-paper-grade-2-glossy-8-x-10in-pack-of-100
But i have just checked else where and Kentmere is a bit cheaper
« Last Edit: September 26, 2014, 04:35:10 PM by gsgary »

timor

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Re: Total Newbie Developer Queries
« Reply #33 on: September 26, 2014, 04:36:51 PM »
Right. I've only just come back to this thread... A lot of stuff to consume for someone that knows very little about development,
;D Off course there is a lot to digest. About 150 years worth. ;D
I watched the following videos which were also very helpful:

http://erickimphotography.com/blog/2014/05/10/introduction-to-darkroom-film-developing-and-printing-with-taylan-bagci-in-istanbul
Just judging from the fact, that you were able to watch that video in full I can expect, that you have infinite patience. This is a horrible piece of work, forget it, really, too bad you even watched it. Don't get too impressed, that there was some "street prophotographer". It means nothing. The best one, HCB, didn't process own films at all.  ;)

timor

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Re: Total Newbie Developer Queries
« Reply #34 on: September 26, 2014, 04:52:51 PM »
I used to print at grade 5 which I believe is magenta @ 170

This is what i'm getting to practise with http://www.firstcall-photographic.co.uk/products/4504/lucky-everyday-paper-grade-2-glossy-8-x-10in-pack-of-100
But i have just checked else where and Kentmere is a bit cheaper
I am a bit crazy here: you have a colour head on your enlarger and you are going to use graded RC paper ? You are on the way to practice dipping that paper in the fluids only. How do you know, that your negatives are good for #2 contrast ?
Get this:
http://www.firstcall-photographic.co.uk/products/2052/kentmere-vc-select-fine-lustre-8-x-10in-pack-of-100
or this for starters:
http://www.firstcall-photographic.co.uk/products/2048/kentmere-vc-select-fine-lustre-5-x-7in-pack-of-100
and make a proper use of that beautiful enlarger you have. The idea of VC paper is to get the longest scale of tones, longer, than you can achieve with graded papers even, when you have all 5 grades on hand.
I will shortly send you a filtration table.
« Last Edit: September 26, 2014, 05:10:35 PM by timor »

thatguychad

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Re: Total Newbie Developer Queries
« Reply #35 on: September 26, 2014, 06:09:40 PM »
Just judging from the fact, that you were able to watch that video in full I can expect, that you have infinite patience. This is a horrible piece of work, forget it, really, too bad you even watched it. Don't get too impressed, that there was some "street prophotographer". It means nothing. The best one, HCB, didn't process own films at all.  ;)

Wow...I just tried to watch that video, even using the handy guide to skip to information that might be useful. I've seen his videos before, but his annoying personality and lack of useful information in the videos is fairly aggravating.

p4portra:
I don't know that I can recommend many alternatives to the awful video you linked, but Ted Forbes of The Art of Photography is always pleasant for me to watch. I haven't seen this particular B&W development video (linked below), but judging from his other videos, I think he's a good teacher that (mostly) stays on topic and is informative.

Here's his video on developing black and white.

I have watched his video on developing C-41, and it's a decent video (I've had more experience and have been able to hone my C-41 process a bit more than he has), but I wouldn't call it an instructional video....it's more of a video of him learning the process along with you.

Francois

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Re: Total Newbie Developer Queries
« Reply #36 on: September 26, 2014, 06:12:28 PM »
I am interested in learning to develop HP5.

Is someone able to recommend a setup that would allow me to develop and scan my own films? I am not interested in enlarging/printing at this stage.

I would rather not compromise on quality, but would be good to understand what the options are at each of the following levels:

1. Just get the job done, compromised quality
2. Get the job done, good results with practise but not necessarily fast
3. All the gear, no idea!
I just want to add a few things the others might have mentioned or not.
For fixer, get Ilford Rapid Fix... it works very fast and you'll thank me for it. If you get regular fixer, after swirling that tank for 7 minutes continuously I'm sure you'll have second thoughts about the decision.

For all the "pots and pans" stuff, don't forget the Dollar Store. For measuring cups and stuff like that, you can't find anything cheaper that does the job.

Also, don't forget to get some Photo-Flo. It's a wetting agent that prevents water spots from forming on the film.
Francois

Film is the vinyl record of photography.

thatguychad

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Re: Total Newbie Developer Queries
« Reply #37 on: September 26, 2014, 06:25:02 PM »
I just want to add a few things the others might have mentioned or not.
For fixer, get Ilford Rapid Fix... it works very fast and you'll thank me for it. If you get regular fixer, after swirling that tank for 7 minutes continuously I'm sure you'll have second thoughts about the decision.

As I'm sure you've seen by now, there are so many choices out there and everyone will recommend something different, based on what they know and are familiar with. I started with Kodak Professional Fixer and fixed for 5 minutes (agitate for 1 min, then 10 secs each additional minute.)

I've since moved to Photographers Formulary TF-5 which requires no stop bath (I use distilled water for one minute) and only 4 minutes of fixing time (I also use the same agitation scheme outlined previously.)

Side note: I also got my amber glass bottles from Photographers Formulary. And, of course, I just now realized that Photographers Formulary products are shipped out of Montana, USA and I'm unsure if you can source them easily in the UK.
« Last Edit: September 26, 2014, 06:28:26 PM by thatguychad »

mcduff

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Re: Total Newbie Developer Queries
« Reply #38 on: September 26, 2014, 06:45:52 PM »
[
 ;D Here we go. Glad to hear this. I also like the look HC110 generates, however my base film is Eastman Double X Negative, a ISO 250 movie stock film which I expose at ISO values from 50 to 500 but most likely at 160.  :)
You try this Xtol, your FP4 gonna like it and you too.

Haha I fear that I will like Xtol! As I previously said I am both lazy and like good results (a bad combo), and HC-110 is a great fit for that. I fear the Xtol will be more work (and only good for a certain period of time) but I also fear it will look good (a funny fear to have  ;))
---------------
check out Don's stuff at http://www.flickr.com/photos/mcduffco/

timor

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Re: Total Newbie Developer Queries
« Reply #39 on: September 26, 2014, 08:32:11 PM »
Haha I fear that I will like Xtol! As I previously said I am both lazy and like good results (a bad combo), and HC-110 is a great fit for that. I fear the Xtol will be more work (and only good for a certain period of time) but I also fear it will look good (a funny fear to have  ;))
More work  ;D If you gonna go with 1:1 ratio then it will be 10 liters of working solution to use. Some 33 films to develop. What's your shooting speed ? ;)

Dave Elden

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Re: Total Newbie Developer Queries
« Reply #40 on: September 28, 2014, 12:12:26 AM »
To the OP, if you can, and if it suits your temperament, I'd suggest signing up for a basic course if there is one offered in your area. This is a practical skill while not hard in principal is surprisingly hard to learn efficiently (i.e. without making lots of unnecessary mistakes) from a book (or the web). You'd also get the opportunity to meet and learn from other photographers doing the same thing.

The advice to use variable contrast not graded printing paper and to use rapid fixer (e.g. Ilford Rapid Fixer or Hypam) is sound. The settings for the filters on your enlarger will probably be in the instructions inside the box your paper comes in, if not check the manufacturer's web site.

Just my 2 cents worth and, full disclosure, I am a darkroom instructor.

Dave.

« Last Edit: September 28, 2014, 12:15:58 AM by Dave Elden »

SLVR

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Re: Total Newbie Developer Queries
« Reply #41 on: September 28, 2014, 04:53:30 AM »
Xtol is king. I love it. It develops with a linear curve and has grain solubility which smoothes out that added grain. It's perfect. Especially with Xtol.

I found Xtol + XX@200 @ 8:00min was perfect.

timor

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Re: Total Newbie Developer Queries
« Reply #42 on: September 28, 2014, 02:54:48 PM »
Xtol is king. I love it. It develops with a linear curve and has grain solubility which smoothes out that added grain. It's perfect. Especially with Xtol.

I found Xtol + XX@200 @ 8:00min was perfect.
Both thumbs up ! XX is an incredible material.