Author Topic: Hello, and a Hasselblad issue (Read 4213 times)

minicoop1985 · « **on:** May 24, 2014, 01:08:06 AM »

Hi everyone, new to the forum but not as new to film (Ok, not as advanced as most of you-I have no idea what the difference between Rodinol and Caffenol is). I'm having an issue with my Hasselblad 1600f. I think the first curtain is hanging up momentarily. It's producing a darker stripe (still an image, but a darkened one) on the right side of the frame, like this:

Grrrrrrrrrrrrr by longm1985, on Flickr

Does anybody know how on earth I can fix this? Strangely enough, the first curtain (the one hanging up) is in fantastic shape, and the second is all kinds of dented but works perfectly. $:-\$

Thanks in advance, I appreciate all the help I can get on this. I love this camera, and it would be an actually emotional experience if I had to give up on it.

02Pilot · « **Reply #1 on:** May 24, 2014, 04:32:44 AM »

Welcome to FW.

Let me preface this by saying that I have zero Hasselblad experience. In the case of a slow curtain in a focal plane shutter, my first instinct is always lack of lubrication (or binding due to old dried-up lubricants). If it were my camera, I'd open it up and apply a very small amount of oil to the shutter spindles where they fit into the body. If that doesn't solve it, you're getting deeper into the mechanism than I feel qualified to comment on (never having handled one).

minicoop1985 · « **Reply #2 on:** May 24, 2014, 04:49:30 AM »

That wouldn't surprise me-I've done a bunch of work to it already, trying to solve this as it's been going on for quite a while now. I think I haven't tried the spindles yet, so that's my next attempt. Couldn't hurt, that's for sure. Thanks!

Francois · « **Reply #3 on:** May 24, 2014, 02:53:11 PM »

Just don't use WD-40!
This stuff will gum up a camera like you can't believe.

moominsean · « **Reply #4 on:** May 24, 2014, 03:13:35 PM »

I would make sure it isn't the developing first. The few times I've had slow shutters, I get a lighter band, not dark (maybe makes sense, a slow shutter would lead to an unexposed edge?). This looks kind of like poor developing to me. I usually develop my own film for the very reason that most labs are shot at developing 120 these days. And in doing it myself, a slightly darker right side is fairly common, as well.

minicoop1985 · « **Reply #5 on:** May 26, 2014, 10:35:16 PM »

Well, I've ruled out developing-it's been doing this through several labs now, and they use different equipment. It's unfortunately not the developing, I think.

Don't worry-I don't use WD-40. I use a variety of lubricants-this thing seems to like loooow viscosity oils. The slow speed mechanism was revived with Rem-Oil-a gun oil left over from my last big hobby. WD-40, though, is FANTASTIC for trumpet valves.

I tried 02Pilot's idea. Gonna fire a roll of Ektar through it and see if it's still happening.

Indofunk · « **Reply #6 on:** May 27, 2014, 02:27:49 AM »

Quote from: minicoop1985 on May 26, 2014, 10:35:16 PM

WD-40, though, is FANTASTIC for trumpet valves.

Ugh, are you serious? I would never put anything other than water or Fat Cat on my trumpet's valves. Maaayyybe some dish soap if I felt like I had to get some gum/gunk off, but I've never needed to do that to date. And I have about 6 or 7 trumpets. Some older than me.

minicoop1985 · « **Reply #7 on:** May 27, 2014, 04:34:55 AM »

I had a Bach Strad lightweight. Used WD-40 in a pinch-valve got gunked up, long story. Worked fantastically until I got the chance to clean it out, actually, but I only used it that one time in that horn. I have a junk, beat to hell, have no idea what the brand even is practice horn now that's more decoration than usable (I haven't seriously played for about a decade now) that I've used good ol WD-40 in. Don't get me wrong-a Monette is a precision instrument worthy of the finest, but this pile of crap isn't.

Late Developer · « **Reply #8 on:** May 27, 2014, 12:37:24 PM »

I am a long-term Hasselblad user but only 500 series. I know nothing about the 1 series. However, a brief trawl through Google seems to suggest that (a few years ago) there was an outfir called Essex Cameras (camerarepair.com) in New Jersey that might be able to help. Whether they still exist or whether they still repair this model, I don'tknow.

If you were in the UK, I'd recommend getting hold of a chap called Chris (the repair guy at Aperture's store on Rathbone Place in London). Again, I don't know if he'd be up for the job but they sell a lot of 'Blad gear and he's "of a certain age" where he might just know the workings of such a machine.

Incidentally, if the rest of the photo is exposed correctly and the incorrectly exposed portion is too dark (on print film) then the curtain is too slow? If it's a lubrication issue (rather than a damaged part), have you tried leaving the camera in a nice, dry and warm airing cupboard for 24 hours to allow the camera to get up to the same temperature throughout? I did this with an old Pentax SLR with a sticky shutter curtain and it freed it up fine. The key was then to make sure I kept using it regularly to avoid the lube congealing again....

Best wishes with getting it up and running. Hopefully, it is repairable.

minicoop1985 · « **Reply #9 on:** May 27, 2014, 03:59:32 PM »

I think Aperture was one of the first places I contacted. Either they didn't get back to me, didn't do the old Blad stuff, or won't do international, but I know I contacted them. Essex, well, if I can't figure this out, I'll definitely try to find them. Thank you very much, it's been such an annoying search for someone to fix it in case I can't.

This cabinet-do you mean one with a dehumidifier? I keep this thing in a display when it's not in use (I shoot digital far more frequently, unfortunately) in a nice, dry cabinet that tends to get a little warm, and that's the closest I currently have-but if it needs more, I can rig something up.

gothamtomato · « **Reply #10 on:** May 27, 2014, 05:39:27 PM »

Why not just take it to a Hasselblad repair place directly?

tkmedia · « **Reply #11 on:** May 27, 2014, 06:09:16 PM »

Quote from: Late Developer on May 27, 2014, 12:37:24 PM

However, a brief trawl through Google seems to suggest that (a few years ago) there was an outfir called Essex Cameras (camerarepair.com) in New Jersey that might be able to help. Whether they still exist or whether they still repair this model, I don'tknow.

They are no longer in business. I did get one of my yashicas serviced by them. I sent it before the shutdown and received the camera a few months after they have shuttered.

02Pilot · « **Reply #12 on:** May 27, 2014, 06:09:45 PM »

AFAIK, Essex Camera went out of business in the wake of severe damage caused by Hurricane Sandy.

Late Developer · « **Reply #13 on:** May 27, 2014, 11:48:33 PM »

Quote from: minicoop1985 on May 27, 2014, 03:59:32 PM

I think Aperture was one of the first places I contacted. Either they didn't get back to me, didn't do the old Blad stuff, or won't do international, but I know I contacted them. Essex, well, if I can't figure this out, I'll definitely try to find them. Thank you very much, it's been such an annoying search for someone to fix it in case I can't.

This cabinet-do you mean one with a dehumidifier? I keep this thing in a display when it's not in use (I shoot digital far more frequently, unfortunately) in a nice, dry cabinet that tends to get a little warm, and that's the closest I currently have-but if it needs more, I can rig something up.

In the cold, dank UK, we have airing cupboards - usually where the central heating boiler is - where we can force dry our clothes in winter. In summer, they tend to be relatively disused but about body temperature and dry enough not to promote fungal spores. If you have a dehumidifier, then great. I just used the airing cupboard as it was and the additional wrmth seemed to loosen up the lube-gunge enough to allow the shutter to function as it should.

I can't guarantee anything, it's just something that might be worth a try.....

minicoop1985 · « **Reply #14 on:** May 28, 2014, 01:04:40 AM »

That royally sucks about Essex. Of all reasons to close, that seems like one of the worst.

If the roll I shot today comes back burned on one side, I'll make myself an airing cabinet. Shouldn't be too hard-duct a dehumidifier into a space heater on low into a spare cabinet I have laying around. We don't have these things in the US-it's not that it's damp here, we just don't bother thinking things through when building them.

Quote from: gothamtomato on May 27, 2014, 05:39:27 PM

Why not just take it to a Hasselblad repair place directly?

They want nothing to do with it either. Apparently early focal plane Hasselblads or other focal Blads with metal curtains (I had a 2000FC/M with a torn curtain) are something nobody wants anything to do with. I've tried David Odess, who has no idea if anyone is doing early FC Blads either. This has royally been a pain in my arse...

Indofunk · « **Reply #15 on:** May 28, 2014, 01:28:09 AM »

Are you in the US? I've been sending my cameras to this guy in Vermont (http://lezot.com ... actually recommended to me by hookstrapped here on the board) and he seems to do good work. Charges are reasonable, not cheap, not super expensive.

Indofunk · « **Reply #16 on:** May 28, 2014, 01:28:48 AM »

And the answer to your trumpet valves is never to let them get to the point where you need to use WD40

minicoop1985 · « **Reply #17 on:** May 28, 2014, 01:48:52 AM »

Perfect-I'll get a hold of them and see just in case. It would be nice to know there's someone who will even attempt to clean this poor thing if need be.

Basically, the general rule should be don't set your horn next to a mud puddle and get allllll kinds of crap in the valves... then only have WD-40 on hand. $:-\$ Ruined the 2nd valve slide when it fell, too...

minicoop1985 · « **Reply #18 on:** May 28, 2014, 08:32:54 PM »

So as I mentioned, I tried lubricating the bottom ends of the spindles (the tops I know had been done recently). Well... IT WORKED!!!!! For the most part. Apparently it's a little slow at 1/1600th (I try to stay away from 1/1600th due to the reliability issues it can cause), but at most slower speeds it's perfect.

Nature strikes back by longm1985, on Flickr

Thank you so much 02Pilot for the advice.

02Pilot · « **Reply #19 on:** May 28, 2014, 09:52:44 PM »

Glad to be of service. The fastest speed is always going to be the most prone to drag on the spindles. A bit of use may see it come up as the oil works its way in to the nether regions of the spindles.

Francois · « **Reply #20 on:** May 28, 2014, 10:23:02 PM »

Lets not forget that on all mechanical cameras, the top speeds are seldom reliable.

minicoop1985 · « **Reply #21 on:** May 29, 2014, 12:36:51 AM »

This is true, but most cameras aren't known to self destruct when those speeds are used a lot either.

My Nikon F seems perfectly content firing along at 1/1000 or being used as an impromptu hammer (it's beat to hell already). My Minolta XG-SE likes to freeze up at its top speed for some reason. Shutter locks open for a minute or two.

Nether regions.... giggle. Anyway, that makes sense.

tkmedia · « **Reply #22 on:** May 29, 2014, 09:40:50 AM »

the 1600 and even the 1000 does have a history of problems with the shutter. That was one of the contributing reasons Hassy went to leaf shutter. They didnt have another focal plane shutter camera for almost 30 years.

original_ann · « **Reply #23 on:** May 30, 2014, 11:52:31 PM »

Dave Odess in Massachusetts is a former Hasselblad technician and someone I've relied on for cleanings, repairs and adjustments. (In fact, I had to sent him my waist level viewfinder today after we all took a nasty fall a couple days ago). Best part is that he'll talk to you over the phone and sometimes even tell you how to take care of things yourself. http://www.david-odess.com/

LT · « **Reply #24 on:** May 31, 2014, 10:02:15 AM »

Brass-Wasters! I like that. I'm a proud blower of an Olds Recording. Look after your horns chaps.

(welcome to FW btw)

minicoop1985 · « **Reply #25 on:** June 01, 2014, 04:29:57 PM »

Quote from: original_ann on May 30, 2014, 11:52:31 PM

Dave Odess in Massachusetts is a former Hasselblad technician and someone I've relied on for cleanings, repairs and adjustments. (In fact, I had to sent him my waist level viewfinder today after we all took a nasty fall a couple days ago). Best part is that he'll talk to you over the phone and sometimes even tell you how to take care of things yourself. http://www.david-odess.com/

Actually, while he won't touch the 1600f himself, he helped me a bit with my Ektar lens. Good guy, and if I ever do get that 503CX I've been drooling over for ever since I learned it existed, it'll be heading to him for repairs. Definitely. He has my business if I ever have any to send him.

Thanks, Leon! Agreed, don't let them look like my current one.... yikes.

I fired off a few more rolls over the week/weekend. It's definitely fixed. Even 1/800 is working properly, but as I said, I'm afraid of ripping it to shreds by plopping it on 1/1600. Again, huge thanks to everyone who helped. Since it's working, I also got a Mir 3 for it.

This seems to be worth mentioning. The second curtain is all kinds of dented (doesn't cause issues). When I bought it, I found name cards in the case, and actually ran into someone who knew the original owner. Apparently he was on a safari in Africa and botched a back change pretty badly (also forgot to wind it first) and stuffed his finger into the curtain. Kind of a cool story, and awesome to have some history on this thing.

original_ann · « **Reply #26 on:** June 02, 2014, 02:32:39 PM »

Good news! Another guy I trust my Speed Graphic w focal plane shutter to is Ken Ruth, Bald Mountain Camera Repair. If you ever need to call him: 831.423.4465