Topic: Rodinal Positive??

[jharr]

Good tip Eirik. I had heard that 5mL rule before, but never quite figured out why. I almost never develop less than 2 35mm, so I haven't run into this yet, but will keep it in mind.

[Indofunk]

Another risk using Rodinal/Adonal/R09 etc for stand devlopment is halos around dark subjects. This is caused by too little developer in the mix. The highlights exhaust the developer, and scrounge from neighbouring darker areas creating a sort of halo. Which is why one should use no less than 5ml of developer syrup per film, regardless of dilution. Meaning that for one roll of 135, you end up with 500ml of soup when diluting 1:100 , even if you only need 350ml to cover to film.

Or you very well may get this effect:


Hakadal Kirke by Eirik0304, on Flickr

I actually like the halo effect But I always mix up 500mL of solution regardless of how many rolls I'm souping, it makes the math easier

[Hungry Mike]

Nice shots James!

I've used Dacomatic in a stand development of Xtol (1:4) and Rodinal (1:100) with minimal agitation (only at the start) and have never experienced drag. I have noticed it with other films - particularly with the 50 year old Plus X I use with the same dilutions.

[Indofunk]

I can see it being film-based. The heavy drag I alluded to above was actually on 50yo Plus X

[Francois]

Many emulsions rely on Silver Bromide, Silver Chloride or a mix of both...

[Indofunk]

I am once again bumping this thread because Peter was kind enough to give me a couple of rolls of his Dacomatic last time I was in Europe, and I've just gotten around to shooting the first roll. He recommended exposing at ISO50, which is what I did. So now I'm faced with the dilemma of how to develop it. I was going to go with my standard HC110 1:100 stand developing, but Peter warned me that he got a lot of bromide drag when stand developing in Rodinal 1:100, and recommended Xtol 1+1 for 6 minutes (which is 2/3 of what Massive Dev recommends for Tri-X). However, I noticed from this thread that James seems to have no trouble at all with bromide drag even in Rodinal 1:100 for 70 minutes without inversions! So now I'm undecided. Do I develop it for 2/3 the time that I develop Tri-X? (That would be HC100H 8min) Or do I try stand developing? Since I have 2 rolls of it, I guess I'm going for one of each I'll try a leader test on the HC110H first...

Oh, also noticed from this thread that the emulsion seems to be very soft, so I think I'll skip the squeegie step before hanging it to dry (I almost completely ruined a roll of old FP4 once by pulling off the emulsion when squeegieing).

[jharr]

You don't have to go to Europe to get more rolls of this. Let me know if you love it and we'll work out a trade.

I have found this film hard to screw up, and it's not for lack of trying. I think last time I did a semi-stand for 40min in Caffenol-C-L and the negs were beautiful. Before that I did 1:50 adonal for 15minutes. That was a little grainier, but not too much for me. I say throw it in some developer at some dilution for a while and you are good to go! 

[Indofunk]

I'm out at a gig now, but I did develop the roll in HC110H for 8 minutes. The leader test was worrying at first, because nothing happened until about 7 minutes in, but then it suddenly turned dark gray and stayed there until the 8min mark. So I souped the roll in the same formula, and the negs look good, if a bit light and not too contrasty. Tomorrow I'll scan them and make a final judgment. Maybe an extra minute for good measure.

[jharr]

I'm out at a gig now, but I did develop the roll in HC110H for 8 minutes. The leader test was worrying at first, because nothing happened until about 7 minutes in, but then it suddenly turned dark gray and stayed there until the 8min mark. So I souped the roll in the same formula, and the negs look good, if a bit light and not too contrasty. Tomorrow I'll scan them and make a final judgment. Maybe an extra minute for good measure.

Now I have an image in my head of you trumpeting with one hand and posting to FW with the other. Good job multitasking. Now if you had some film stand developing on the bass player's amp, that would be awesome! 

[Indofunk]

There are these things called set breaks But I do love the concept of stand developing while gigging! Two caveats ... the bass player's amp gets pretty hot, so that may not be an appropriate place for the developing tank. Two: no predicting exactly how long a set will be, so imagine me exactly one hour into the set, in the middle of a song, and I put down the horn saying "I gotta fix the film!!"

[Adam Doe]

Now I have an image in my head of you trumpeting with one hand and posting to FW with the other. Good job multitasking. Now if you had some film stand developing on the bass player's amp, that would be awesome! 

I wonder if the vibrations from a bass amp would be ample agitation so that you wouldn't have to stand develop?

[Francois]

You can actually attach the tank to a string so that it's just in front of the speaker
With the volume most venues set their sound at, it should agitate plenty 

If in doubt, we can always ask Ed