1. Yes you can
just expose for the highlights (do test strip over the most important highlight and choose the stage that shows the first hint of tone), then print the whole neg using the selected exposure time at grade 2 1/2. If the shadows are too heavy/dark, reduce the grade and print again. If the shadows are weak/ too light, increase the grade and print again. keep doing this until you are happy with the tones across the print. (don't forget that if you are wandering above grade 3 1/2, and using filter gels, you'll need to double the exposure time to cope with the filter factor)
If it is over exposed, but dev'd normally, you'll have contracted the tones so will probably need a higher grade (depending on SBR); if over exposed and over dev'd, you'll either need normal or low grade contrast, depending on a variety of factors.
Film can record quite a large range of tones from dark to white (Somewhere around 11-13 stops I understand) so the only limiting factor is the paper, which manages only about 5 stops of detail.you should be fine.
2. Keep it moving all the time. Don't overdo it until you have had lots of practice. keep the card/dodger at least half way between the lens and paper to ensure the edges are well-blurred. Don't try to work miracles. Dont make the mistake of thinking you can do what photoshop lets you do, cos ypu mostly cant
Finally, a well dev'd and exposed neg shouldn't need much burning and dodging, maybe some work in a sky to bring out the clouds, or some gentle graduation to a foreground to pull the eyes into the print, but that's it.
3. You need to make sure you get the correct thread for your enlarger lens panel. Most are L39 thread, but some a 50mm. So check the enlarger options before you buy a lens.
Hope that helps, and Good luck with it
Leon
