Topic: Tips on Solargraphy please!

[sapata]

It sounds like a great project to do while my photographic paraphernalia are still packed (although I'll have to give a good guess to find out where the photographic papers are...) and if I'm not mistaken, some of you guys had some experience with this process.

To start, today I got the lid out of a 330ml beer can easily just by using this tool (what's the English name for that?)

[Info Red]

The best place I know of for information:

http://www.solargraphy.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=16&Itemid=18

One of my students contacted Tarja Trigg, who then sent him information, a couple of film canister pinhole cameras here in the US, which he then sent back for the project after exposing them for 6 months.  Good project, good info, and friendly folks to deal with!

Good luck

Mark

[astrobeck]

The site Info Red posted is indeed a great spot to begin with and I too can vouch for Tarja's generosity...she has helped me immensely the past few years.

I have been doing solargraphs for the past 5 years so can answer just about any question you might have about them too.
My best tips are to make sure you put them in a place that can remain undisturbed for a long period of time.
Rain, snow, and minute peices of debris can work its way into the camera, but it's all part of the final product.

It's really simple and very rewarding in that you truly have to rely on the Sun to make its marks on the photo paper.
Have fun, and if you have any questions, ask away..

Becky

[sapata]

Thank you Mark and Becky!

The site seems to an awesome source of information.

Becky, after the exposure they say not to use any chemicals because all the information is there already to be scanned. What if you take this paper to a darkroom and process normally? Can we do that on film?

[charles binns]

Sapata,

I think you have to scan the paper  - processing it will ruin the image (I might be wrong here though).  However, if you are going to scan - scan at a lowish resolution.  I used to scan at 4800 thingybits and when I scanned my first solargraph at that resolution the scanner passed over the paper so slowly it turned black

Now I scan at 300 or 72 thingybits.  As I'm not likely to print the solargraphs high resolution doesn't matter so much.

I was going to quip "stick it where the sun don't shine".....but that would be self defeating, as well as childish.  Made me snigger though!

[DS]

To start, today I got the lid out of a 330ml beer can easily just by using this tool (what's the English name for that?)

That's called a file (with little teeth for metal) or a rasp (with big jaggy teeth for wood or horse's hooves)

Is it not possible just to fix these? Like this:
http://www.alternativephotography.com/wp/processes/lumen/lumen-prints

[charles binns]

You could always use a biscuit tin - paint the inside black and drill a hole through a piece of brass shim with a needle.

[sapata]

To start, today I got the lid out of a 330ml beer can easily just by using this tool (what's the English name for that?)

That's called a file (with little teeth for metal) or a rasp (with big jaggy teeth for wood or horse's hooves)

Thanks!

[DS]

Ah- the googlenets tell me apparently normal fixer kills the image but you might be OK with dilute sodium thiosulphate

[sapata]

Sapata,

I think you have to scan the paper  - processing it will ruin the image (I might be wrong here though).  However, if you are going to scan - scan at a lowish resolution.  I used to scan at 4800 thingybits and when I scanned my first solargraph at that resolution the scanner passed over the paper so slowly it turned black

Now I scan at 300 or 72 thingybits.  As I'm not likely to print the solargraphs high resolution doesn't matter so much.

I was going to quip "stick it where the sun don't shine".....but that would be self defeating, as well as childish.  Made me snigger though!

Thanks for the scan tip, I've seen some people fixing the paper while searching for info...

[sapata]

Ah- the googlenets tell me apparently normal fixer kills the image but you might be OK with dilute sodium thiosulphate

That's something to consider as well!

[astrobeck]

Just scan it, that's what I do.  No developer-EVER!
I pre-set my scanner settings beforehand though so my scanner doesn't have to warm up or anything before scanning.

I have also fixed my solargraphs after scanning to preserve them, but they do bleach out a bit and the latent image is not the same as when the original scan was made.  I normally just put my scanned solargraphs in a light tight box and don't bother fixing them.

In my chats with Tarja, she recommends scanning at 200 dpi.  I usually scan mine at 400 dpi. just because I like the way they look.

And finally, I make the majority of my cameras out of old 35mm film cans.  I can hide them better if they are small.

[Francois]

I shot only two, so my experience is somewhat limited.
When you pull the paper out of the can, it can look perfectly white. It's the scanner that brings out the magical colors.
The image is on there, just very faint.

[sapata]

All these tips are good enough to me to give a start, and I think I got the perfect can

[astrobeck]

that's a fantastic can!!!!

[charles binns]

Sol??

[sapata]

that's a fantastic can!!!!

Sol??

[charles binns]

Gnats wee!! What's wrong with Brazilian beer?? If I remember correctly Schopp was pretty good!

[sapata]

Sol beer comes from Mexico...

Brazilian beer are in fact too weak for me, especially after living in England for such a long time... although Chopp is a good choice for hot days!

[charles binns]

Sol beer comes from Mexico...

I know - I still won't drink it!! Give me Pacifico any day of the week.  That was it, Chopp.  Did like it!

[sapata]

There's no pasteurization in "Chopp" with less bubles and a creamy head on top to keep it ice cold.

[charles binns]

All I remember is that it tasted damned good when you're 24 and a long way from home!!