Topic: Stand developing in Rodinal

[LT]

hi Matt - the "info" email address doesnt work on my account any more ... I know, bloody nightmare (I still haven't got a definitive answer as to why) "leon", "mail" or anything else will work, just not "info"

[LT]

forget that last message, I;ve just managed to sort it out - needed to set up a whole new email account  - long and boring story.  Will reply asap.

[mickld]

Hi all - sorry for bumping an old thread, but my question seems to fit here.

I tried stand developing a roll of 120 FP4 for 60 mins last night in 100:1 R09. Agitated for the first 30 seconds and gave it a very gently agitation after 30 mins.

I haven't had a chance to scan the negs yet but something definitely came out, so I can't wait to see how they look. This is my first time using FP4, stand development and a Holga 120 GN. Nothing like introducing multiple variables into the process at the same time

I decided to try stand dev because the film came from a holga with almost no exposure control.

I had a second holga-exposed 120 roll of HP5+ and was considering trying to load it onto the same reel so that both would be processed at the same time. I didn't, as I was playing with too many variables as it was. Plus I have read that rodinal stand development requires a minimum of 5ml of developer, whatever the dilution. I'm not sure if that means 5ml per roll of film? Presumably it should work ok, the equivalent of developing a 220 roll in 100:1 solution?

Developing 2 rolls of 120 at a time would be pretty convenient.

[sapata]

Hi all - sorry for bumping an old thread, but my question seems to fit here.

I tried stand developing a roll of 120 FP4 for 60 mins last night in 100:1 R09. Agitated for the first 30 seconds and gave it a very gently agitation after 30 mins.

I haven't had a chance to scan the negs yet but something definitely came out, so I can't wait to see how they look. This is my first time using FP4, stand development and a Holga 120 GN. Nothing like introducing multiple variables into the process at the same time

I decided to try stand dev because the film came from a holga with almost no exposure control.

I had a second holga-exposed 120 roll of HP5+ and was considering trying to load it onto the same reel so that both would be processed at the same time. I didn't, as I was playing with too many variables as it was. Plus I have read that rodinal stand development requires a minimum of 5ml of developer, whatever the dilution. I'm not sure if that means 5ml per roll of film? Presumably it should work ok, the equivalent of developing a 220 roll in 100:1 solution?

Developing 2 rolls of 120 at a time would be pretty convenient.

I just developed 2 rolls of 120 films on the same spiral (1st time actually !), one taken with my Rollei and the other with my Holga using Rodinal 1:100 stand development, agitated for the 1st minute and then left untoutched. I used the same amount as usual... as far as I know the measure is per quantity of liquid and not per film.

[mickld]

Cool. Like I said, it would be pretty convenient to two at a time.

I'm just after scanning the roll I developed last night. I will have hopefully attached 2 below. Most were quite underexposed, but I 'rescued' them using Aperture 3's curves control. I think I'll declare the stand development experiment a success (for me).

Next time I'll try 2 on a reel.

Thanks

[Terry]

mickld:  I routinely stand develop in Rodinal at 1:100.  I need 5ml Rodinal and 500ml of water for a single roll of 120 but I use 3ml/300ml for a single roll of 35mm.  I never read that you need a minimum of 5ml.  Like Sapata, I agitate very gently (making sure to completely invert the tank) for one minute, bang it sharply three times to dislodge bubbles and leave it for an hour.  Works a treat.

[sapata]

Great result ... I have been doing stand dev for quite sometime now and it's VERY economic, specially when doing 4x5 negative. Another thing that suits me is the fact that I only have set the alarm to "remind" me I have a film developing !

[mickld]

Thanks for the feedback. I came across the idea of stand developing with this article (http://www.feelingnegative.com/darkroom/rodinal-the-magic-elixir). Which is where I got the notion of requiring a minimum of 5ml R09.

[mickld]

>I only have set the alarm to "remind" me I have a film developing
Yes! I got to watch TV while my negs were developing last night. So civilised.

[Nigel]

Plus I have read that rodinal stand development requires a minimum of 5ml of developer, whatever the dilution. I'm not sure if that means 5ml per roll of film? Presumably it should work ok, the equivalent of developing a 220 roll in 100:1 solution?

I seem to remember reading somewhere the quantity of developer (i.e. the 5ml) is based on the area of film being developed, so two films would require twice as much. I might have read it in the Film Developing Cookbook, I've got it at home I'll try to have a look later and report back.

Nigel

[Photo_Utopia]

Agfa used to state 10ml per film, I think they were trying to drive up sales though as most people find a useful minimum of 5ml per film.

Anyhow I've been using 5ml per film for a few years now with no problems.

Mark Antony

[mickld]

@Nigel - much appreciated!

I guess I should use 50:1 if I have 2 rolls on a single spool. I'll try it next time.

[jojonas~]

@Nigel - much appreciated!

I guess I should use 50:1 if I have 2 rolls on a single spool. I'll try it next time.

I mostly use that dilution for one roll with 30min and agitation first minute as usual but with some twists n turns after half time and the last seconds. works for me~
If I could develop at home I'd try doing one hour. I'm just impatient ;P

[choppert]

My usual half-arsed approach to developing (Tri-X 400 at 20ish degrees C) seems to work fine.

6ml of HC110 in 760 ml of Brita filtered water (I too read that at least 6ml of HC110 is required per film)
An insane amount of agitation (think cocktail barman) for one minute, followed by a couple of taps.
Leave it for 45 mins.
Quick twist with the twirler.
Leave for another 45 mins.

Job done!

Only 6ml of chemical to throw away (how green is that?) and enough time to watch an entire Columbo episode on DVD.  (If it's on ITV I reduce the temperature to increase development time  )

[Nigel]

Mikeld

The Film Dev Cookbook wasn't quite as explicit as I remembered, but it does say:

Chapter4

DEVELOPMENT PROCEDURES

Film size equivalents The following film sizes are approximately equal to 8x10 inches, or 80 square (802) inches. Throughout the text, whenever 8x10 inches of film is referred to, it will be considered equivalent to one of the following:
1-35mm roll, 36 exposures
1-120 roll
4-4x5-inch sheets
2-5X7-inch sheets
1-8x10-inch sheet

Developer volume recommendations for 8x10 inches of film Although it is true, as Kodak claims, that 100 ml of undiluted D-76 is suflicient to develop 8x10 inches of film, it may not always be enough to develop the film to its fullest potential. The amount  of solution required to cover the film's surface should not be confused with the amount of developer required to fully develop a roll of film.

For example, 100 ml of solution will cover one roll of 35mm, 36 exposure film in a JOBO CPA-2 processor. However, to ensure full development of all images on the roll at least 250 ml of undiluted D-76 should be used, no matter what any manufacturer says to the contrary.

To maintain quality and consistency use the following volumes for each 8x10 inches of film, regardless ofthe processing method-even rotary processing.

Undilute developers-at least 250 ml (D-76, Microdol-X, XTOL).

Dilute developers~at least 500 ml (D-76 1:1, Rodinal1:25 to 1:50,
FX 1, FX 2, HC-110 1:31 from concentrate, PMK). Very dilute developers-1 liter (D-76 1:3, Rodinal 1:100, FX 2 1:1, HC-110 1:90 from concentrate).

These amounts may sound extreme to some. But saving on developer is penny wise and pound foolish. Do not try to make photography cost-effective by skimping on film developer. You will never be able to maintain quality and consistency; even if the results appear adequate.

I hope that helps, a little!

[mickld]

Looks like the book is suggesting 5ml per single 120 roll too. So 10ml for a double roll.

I've not really bothered about the cost. R09 is cheap enough and 10ml per double roll is the same cost anyway. The longevity of R09 is what really makes it cheap and suitable to infrequent use.

That was a lot of typing btw! Thanks for that.

[mickld]

And I just realised I mis-named the two images I uploaded. These were shot on FP4, not HP5. Oops.