Topic: Paper neg question

[astrobeck]

Apologies if we've covered this before, but it's always worth a re-visit I 'spose.

I'm looking for some suggestions for paper negs.

Currently I use Kentmere VC Select but would like to try something different.

Anyone got a favorite?  Also are you using the same paper for contact prints?
And are any of you loading them in 4 x 5 sheet film holders?  Just curious.

Many thanks always!    

[Andrea.]

I use Silverprint proof but any RC will do. The secret I think is in the pre-flashing to lower contract - I do it at grade 00 on MC paper or white light on graded. Then, when you develop, try doing so in very dilute developer then take good care not to over develop the blacks as this will cause havoc when you contact print. You can always raise the contrast with filters when contact printing - even split contrast.
Fibre paper will work if its single weight but, tis such a waste of good paper to use is as a neg- unless you have some really old stuff that has lost some of its contract/fogged and you like the texture on contact printing.

That's what I do anyway. I use 5x7 and 8x10 holders but have also done them in 6x9 folders and Box Brownies. In fact, was thinking of doing a paper neg in a Box Brownie for the underwater Collab - when and if it comes. Only it won't be in the sea!
Hope this helps.

[Pitxu]

The secret I think is in the pre-flashing to lower contract -

I was just about to try some of this myself.
I've got a few 3x4 holders loaded with Ilford multi-grade ready to go into my Speed Graphic.

I've "googled around" and think I'm ready to go except for the "pre-flashing" bit, which I don't understand enough.

I'd really appreciate any details on pre-flashing.

Thanks.

[Andrea.]

Well, what I do is crank up the spare enlarger to the top, stop the lens down to f16 and give the paper 1-2 sec exposure at grade 00. I ideally if one is technical, one flashes the paper for 05, 1, 1.5 2 secs or whatever and then develop till you see which time exposure gives you a teensy bit of tone then you use the exposure before that.
Using the Wiesmier method which consists of 'just about right ish' I give it about 2 secs and that seems to work.

[Pitxu]

OK. Thanks Andrea.

[db]

I'm not particularly technical about film/ paper/ chem combinations but
my gut tells me the dev dilution/ time is a bigger factor than the paper type.
I just use bog standard Ilford RC paper, flashed,  in dektol at 1:9 or weaker.

[Pitxu]

Hi db,

What speed do you rate it at?

I figured about 12 iso. Would that be OK?

[Andrea.]

Kentmere graded and Silverprint proof @5asa. works for me. And yes, the dilution of the developer is crucial. very weak - I don't do ratios but just a small splash-ish. I also keep a water bath by the side so I can slow the development even more but dunking it in that for a while. Sometimes i just dip part of the neg in the dev for a while to bring one area up a bit.

[db]

Like she said.. Someone did once suggest Ilford RC MG was 6- 10 to me, although being a ''The right exposure is the one that works'' type guy I do rely on trial and error.

Another trick is to watch the temperature of the soup.  And if an area of the print is not quite coming up, sometimes I dip that portion in a tray of hot water, rub, dip, rub, and continue developing. It sounds rough, but I have used that to  save an otherwise good  neg/ print.