Topic: Chromogenic confusion (Kodak t400CN, Ilford XP2, Fuji 400CN)

[choppert]

Hello,

Tried to drop a roll of Fuji 400CN in to the local lab for C41 processing.  As their machine has no manual over-ride [over the DX coding] on it the chap couldn't pull process it for me (400 ISO exposed at 200 ISO).

Now, assuming I want to expose the film at a slower speed (from the web it looks like chromogenic film doesn't respond well to being pushed) I think I have a few options...

1) Buy some DX labels - though at ?16 they are a bit pricey?
2) Get the lab to process at 400 ISO - the web says the film will be fine, but surely it would still be better to develop the film as it was exposed even with wide latitude? 
3) Buy an ND filter and just expose at 400 ISO
4) Find a lab which will pull a film!

Feels like option 3 will give the most flexibility, but I may end up with the filters (ND + yellow) being longer than my lens!

Right now, home processing real B+W film isn't much of an option.

Any ideas?

Thanks,



Chops

[Francois]

All C-41 films get processed for the same time by machines (as far as I know), so fixing the DX code probably won't do much.

But if you want to DX code the cassettes yourself, check the articles section, I wrote one explaining how the codes work. A bit of metal duct tape and a bit of electrician's tape will allow you to make your own labels.

[LT]

I'm no expert on these films, but I thought they had a huge tolerance for over/under exposure.  and 200 to 400 is only one stop.

[Francois]

They should have the same tolerance as regular color film. If you consider that most color film has a 7 stop exposure range, and that Chromogenic B&W is simply a color film without color, you should be OK. Portraits will have slightly pale skin but not much more.

I've already exposed some 200 ISO film in a point&shoot (Yashica Micro Elite AF, a great little camera) that had only DX coding for 100 and 400... Landscapes looked pretty average, portraits had Victorian skin which I find very pleasing.

[Yaniv Waissa]

I didn't understand why you change the asa to 200 but from my experience the negative will be fine if you will develope it as normal

[choppert]

I didn't understand why you change the asa to 200 but from my experience the negative will be fine if you will develope it as normal

Was very bright sunlight and ran out of shutter speed options.  That's all.

Thanks

[Pete_R]

The fuji is very similar to the Ilford as I recall (Kodak a bit different). I use XP2 most of the time and expose anywhere from 100 to 400 and just put it in for processing as normal. Don't worry about it, it'll be OK. In fact, I think it's better a stop or two over.

Pushing/pulling c41 is unusual as, if it was colour, the different layers respond differently and you end up with colour casts that are uncorrectable, so most labs wouldn't be set up to do it.

[Francois]

You could get a cheap ND filter for next time. If you're only going to use it from time to time, not worth putting a lot of cash on an expensive filter. Or you could just have put a polarizer on the lens, it does cut down on light.

Push pull does screw-up the color balance quite a bit on color film...

[Skorj]

on it the chap couldn't pull process it for me (400 ISO exposed at 200 ISO).

Not sure about others' experience. But this is well within the latitude of 400CN/XP-2 Super. In other words, will not make much difference to the exposed neg.

The fuji is very similar to the Ilford as I recall (Kodak a bit different). I

I believe the Fuji is XP-2 Super. Not sold in Japan for this reason. Rebranded stuff. Curious for Fuji I suppose. But, the internet has much to say on this as always.

Perhaps to assist, you can tell us what your objective is, as I shoot reams of XP-2 Super and it can handle a variety of different situations. The Kodak is much the same as others have said, however the tint is different because of the differing reacting dyes. The Kodak has a slight orange tint, whereas the Ilford/Fuji a slight mauve/blue.

The Ilford spec sheet from their web site is a wealth of information, including latitude statements, and an interesting snippet - the tint fades with age and exposure to sunlight... Enjoy regardless!

Here's a gallery of both XP-2 and TCN400 shot under a variety of conditions: click here.