Well, I did a short test between dinner and an appointment. And the results were not as I expected... I just love the unexpected.
First, since I had no software to control the enlargement process, I did it the long way. So I ended up taking a picture I took with my phone, bring it into photoshop where I converted it to B&W using the Black & White feature in Photoshop CS3. I tweaked the tones until it looked good on my screen and then flipped the image right to left and converted to negative before re-saving all this on the phone's card.
Then came the phone's setup. I had to crank the brightness all the way to 11, remove the power saving mode, turn off auto-rotation which decided to make the image small and set the screen banking mode to 30 minutes instead of 30 seconds.
I used Android's Photos app to load my negative.
The enlarger I used is an Omega DII 4x5 with a Schneider 135mm lens. I just put my phone on the negative holder to put it in the enlarger making sure not to drop the condensers on it.
Light wise, the amount of it was definitely a surprise. I was expecting something much more dim, though I had to expose it wide open at f/4.5 just to get reasonable exposure times for my 5x7 print.
Another thing that was quite a surprise is how hard it was to actually get a sense of how much light output it gave. I was expecting to get a 42 second exposure but I really overcooked the first print. So I subtracted one stop and it gave me this exposure. This is probably due to the fact that the screen displays a grid pattern that makes it hard to evaluate.
Then, there's the tell tale grid pattern of the screen that gets enlarged big time. When I used the focusing scope, I could see the individual pixels quite clearly.
I also got a surprise when it came to the contrast of the print. My original was somewhat contrasty but this was all gone on the print. I think I should blame the blueish-ness of the screen for that. It seems that it exposes mostly on the soft (grade 0-2 possibly) emulsion layer of my RC paper... I had to play with the levels to get the print to look good in the scan.
For timing the exposure, I just listened to the ticking of the clock and blocked the light with my hand... very high tech as you can see.
So all in all, it's all going to come down to the software they package with their creation. It's also going to have a quite limited enlarging size.
Here are some samples of the original, the reproduction and a close-up of the enlargement.