Topic: Metering

[Late Developer]

What is the favoured method of choice?

I have two basic methods:

1. If it's a fairly flat, dull day (or raining) I generally rely on the meter in the camera (assuming there is one)
2. For when it's sunny / contrasty (or when the camera doesn't have a meter), I use a grey card and my Minolta Auto Meter IV

I've used sunny 16 - which works well enough - to a point. However, I don't trust it (or myself) at the low light end of the scale.

How about you good folks....??

[Phil Bebbington]

Mostly from memory based on incident light readings from a hand held meter. Also, using the same films most of the time lessens the use of the meter. For dark interiors I always take incident light readings and then add to it if the exposure is over 2 seconds.

[LT]

spot on shadows then reduce reading exposure by 1 - 2 stops depending on SBR. Control highlights with development and compensating developers.

or with the Holga or other cameras with little or any exposure control - modify to make the camera over expose with a given film speed, then use compensating developers to control highlights. I end up with dense negs, but they work really well for split grade printing.

[Francois]

I know this is going to sound pretty boring, but I tend to trust my camera's matrix metering 98% of the time...
except in the snow where I overexpose a bit so I don't get gray snow.
For cameras without a meter, I use the expomat computer.

[moominsean]

Possibly even more boring, but I just use my eyes. I've shot enough that I'm almost always right. Skorj tested me once on a train, and I don't think I missed any.

[Photo_Utopia]

I normally spot meter the area of emerging detail, then stop down two stops.
Not exiting. Oh and sometimes I use sunny 16 with my old folders.

Mark

[original_ann]

Phil and Sean I'm envious - I MUST incident meter everything.  I resolve every year to develop the skill to intuitively set my camera exposures without a meter (for those 'just in case I forget, or the battery dies' moments).

[Ed Wenn]

Ballpark Metering Explained:

• Only use instant film.
• Take a guess then take a photo
• Adjust according to results and expect to nail it by the 4th or 5th shot depending on whether the sun is popping out from behind the clouds and then hiding again

Only joking. I either use the camera's meter or my trusty old selenium thingy. I usually only meter once per session and then guess the rest...which is what Phil's talking about I think.

[Ed Wenn]

Sean: you and Skorj should have filmed your session on the train for a podcast. Pair o'geeks!!

 

[Mike (happyforest)]

I use my Gossen Lunasix to take an average incident reading with the ETRS.

The 35mm's I tend to use the built in meters unless the scene is unusual and then use the Gossen.

Mike

[Phil Bebbington]

Pretty much, Ed. Once I have a sense of the light I can adjust without having to re-meter. I always meter with dark interiors as it is so off my scale, but, again once you have a sense of the light you can guess up and down quite accurately. I do have a tendency to be a bit OCD so the urge to meter is quite strong!

[moominsean]

Phil and Sean I'm envious - I MUST incident meter everything.  I resolve every year to develop the skill to intuitively set my camera exposures without a meter (for those 'just in case I forget, or the battery dies' moments).

I beat the meter sometimes, as well, particularly in low light. Was out with a friend and I had her meter just in case. I didn't think it was right, and it wasn't right, photo was very dark. But Polaroid acts differently than real film, and there are only so many available options for aperture and speed. It's easier to do before my eyes have adjusted to the light if it's darker inside than out... and if I can do it with Polaroid, real film is easier because it is typically more forgiving. It's not that difficult once you get started. oh it's cloudy...3.5 and 15 with a filter, 16 and 60 without.

[Skorj]

Sean's metering is indeed as good as he suggests. Me, I use my Sekonic... Shooting generally for the shadows, unless I want a particular sky effect. Skj.