Ok - I've had a bit of a mess about with the new harman Direct Positive paper. this stuff is really finicky and is going to take some getting used to.
first test: 5x4 camera with 150 mm lens. exposure at iso 3. the instructions say the paper is very contrasty without a pre-flash to chip off the highlights a bit and gain a greater tonal scale. Harman recommend doing this in a dark room with an enlarger, but I did it in camera with a total diffusion filter on the front of the lens (eg a Lee gel snap with 3 layers of tracing paper in it)
the first shots I took at f5.6 which gave me an exposure time of 1/2 second. All were developed in my standard print developer for 2 minutes.
I made three shots, 1 at normal exposure, one with a meter reading minus 3 stops pre-flash (eg zone 2) and one with a reading minus 2 stops pre-flash (zone 3). All of them came out virtually black, so were madly under exposed.
I did some more reading and found out that Harman used to make the emulsion for the very similar Efke Direct positive paper. So I researched that which suggested the emulsion suffers badly with reciprocity problems at anything less than 1 second exposure (reverse to film). guessing that this might well be the self same emulsion, I closed down the lens and tried exposing at f8 and 1 second, then f11 and 2, and f16 and 4
the results are below - in order. Bear in mind all had had effectively the same exposure, and it was cloudy diffuse conditions - unchanging, and all had a zone 3 pre-flash.
some are more contrasty than others, some show better low value separation etc! It's very difficult to control all of this. I think my next step will be to stick with the zone 3 pre-flash with an exposure for the highlights at about 1 and a half under meter reading - treat it like slide film, then see where I get. the finish to the print is exactly the same as ilford MGFB with a bright white base and it has a warmish tone to the developed silver.
(ignore the file names on the pictures, I;ve labelled them in the wrong sequence.
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