Author Topic: Tern Island  (Read 4736 times)

Bryan

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Tern Island
« on: June 01, 2024, 05:31:37 PM »
I had the rare opportunity to visit Tern Island through my work.  Tern island is located in Northwest Hawaii in the French Frigate Shoals about 550 miles Northwest of Honolulu.  This is in the Papahānaumokuākea National Marine Sanctuary (here's more information about it https://www.papahanaumokuakea.gov/visit/ffs.html).  I went there with researchers with the U.S. Fish and Wildlife, NOAA and the U.S. EPA.

I was there at the perfect time of year, nesting seabirds, giant green sea turtles laying eggs, monk seals mating season.  It was a giant wildlife orgy going on.  It's very difficult for people to visit any of the islands in the sanctuary.  You have to do it under a permit that requires you to have a legitimate reason to go there, like scientific research.  Sometimes they let the media film there like they recently did for the David Attenborough BBC show, Plan Earth. 

This set of photos was all shot with an Olympus Stylus 120 using expired Kodak Gold 200.

There is only one way to get to Tern, by ship.  Even though it used to be an airport, the runway is no longer in use.  There's a lot of birds laying eggs on the runway now.  On the day before we departed on the Imua we had to load supplies on the ship.  We spent the night on the ship at the harbor so they could depart very early the next morning.  The ship stopped first at Tern, then at Midway to drop off fuel and supplies then took another team of researchers to Kure Atol.  Kure is another 800 miles beyond Tern.  My ride back to Honolulu was on the same boat when they came to pick me up on the way back, 9 days later. 
Loading the Imua by Bryan Chernick, on Flickr

First load of people to Tern in the Alewa, a small boat that was brought on the deck of the Imua.  There were 8 of us that were staying on Tern, others went to help offload supplies. 
Untitled by Bryan Chernick, on Flickr

Approaching the dock on Tern.  In the background you can see the Imua.  To the right of the Imua is the 120-foot-high La Pérouse Pinnacle, the last remnant of the volcano that created the shoals. 
Alewa approaching Tern Isalnd by Bryan Chernick, on Flickr

Approaching the dock.  You can see the Alewa is loaded with 5 gallon buckets.  All the supplies that will fit in buckets is brought there that way.  They have very strict biosecurity protocols that required everything to be purchased new, cleaned, and frozen to prevent the transfer of invasive plants and animals.  I had to purchase all new clothing for the trip.  I brought two cameras, the one I'm using here is an Olympus Stylus 120, I also cleaned an Olympus OM-1 really well and packed it in a bucket with my film.  Since the Stylus is water resistant and can easily be cleaned I was able to use it before we got there, then I cleaned it on the Imua prior to leaving for the island.  I brought the Stylus as a backup in case something happened to the OM-1. 
Alewa Docking at Tern Island by Bryan Chernick, on Flickr

White Tern at sunrise on the dock.
White Tern at Sunrise by Bryan Chernick, on Flickr

Nesting Frigatebirds.  That's a female with two males behind her.  They take turns on the eggs while the other gets food.  All the trees on the island were destroyed when the storm surege from the last hurricane swept over the whole island.  They still use the remains of the trees to nest, otherwise they nest on the ground.  The island is only a few feet above sea level to it's not hard for a storm surge or tsunami to sweep over it. 
Nesting Frigatebirds by Bryan Chernick, on Flickr

Black Noddy and nesting Frigatebird.  One thing that struck me is how the different species interact and tolerate each other.  I guess they have to it's so crowded.  You literally have to tiptoe around the island watching every step so you don't step on an egg or chick.  Many of the birds, especially the Terns and albatross, don't make nests, they just lay their eggs on the ground.
Black Noddy and nesting Frigatebird by Bryan Chernick, on Flickr

Stay tuned for many more photos, I was a true Filmwaster while I was there. 

Bryan

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Re: Tern Island
« Reply #1 on: June 07, 2024, 04:43:29 PM »
Some shots from roll #2.  The rest of the shots going forward were shot with an Olympus OM-1 using a Zuiko MC Auto-Zoom f/4 35-70mm with a Yellow filter.  This roll is Adox HR-50 developed in Beerenol (Rainier Beer). 

These White Terns seemed to like this white piece of wood a lot, maybe they identified with the color.  These two were competing for a spot on it. 
White Terns by Bryan Chernick, on Flickr

There were a lot of Albatross, this is two Laysan Albatross tending to their chick.  There were also Black-Footed Albatross but it's hard to tell the difference with the chicks until they start to loose their downy feathers.  Obviously this one is a Laysan Albatross judging by it's parents.   They lay their eggs on the ground, much like the Tern.  After the chick is born they leave it for long periods of time while they go out to look for food.  The chick will not leave the spot where it was born until it can fly away, that way the parents can find it again.  These chicks are the size of a large chicken and are evenly scattered all over the island. 
Laysan Albatross with chick by Bryan Chernick, on Flickr

Albatross chick on the beach.  That's the deteriorating old seawall in the background.  That pipe on the left is a well to test water contamination that was put in by the EPA several years ago. 
Albatross Chick on the beach by Bryan Chernick, on Flickr

Over 90% of Hawaii's Green Sea Turtles are born on Tern island.  After they are born they don't come back to breed until they are 30 years old.  They hang out on the beach and lay their eggs in a deep hole above the water level.  Every now and then one gets lost and can get trapped in man made structures or lost in the middle of the island.  A few were rescued while I was there.  One got trapped in an eroded out area behind the seawall and another was lost out in the middle of the island on the old runway.  That on left a trail of destruction on it's journey.  They will crush chicks and eggs as they wander around.  One of those large Laysan chicks was so determined to hold its ground that it was crushed.  The scientists that are studying there will do an entrapment walk each morning to look for trapped turtles and seals. 
Green Sea Turtles by Bryan Chernick, on Flickr

A Monk Seal happened by while I was taking a picture of these Black Noddy and Green Sea Turtle on the beach. 
Green Sea Turtle, Noddys and a Monk Seal by Bryan Chernick, on Flickr

Frigatebirds are quite large but also very light for their size.  They can fly to altitudes of 30,000 feet and travel great distances.  They catch the wind on Tern and just hover.  I was walking under some that were hovering and one came down right over my head.  I started ducking down and it followed me down until it rested its belly on my head.  Then it just flew off.  Another person I was there with had one land on her head.  She then moved it to her hand and let it perch there for a while.  They will eat the smaller chicks, one swooped down right next to me and took a Sooty Tern chick.  The Terns made quite a loud racket when that happened. 
Frigatebirds by Bryan Chernick, on Flickr

I still have more film to develop, stay tuned.

Bryan

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Re: Tern Island
« Reply #2 on: June 13, 2024, 03:21:09 AM »
Roll #3.  Same camera, lens, film and developer as above. 

Red-footed Boobies. 
Red-footed Boobies by Bryan Chernick, on Flickr

Another Red-footed Booby
Red-footed Booby by Bryan Chernick, on Flickr

Black Noddy
Black Noddy by Bryan Chernick, on Flickr

Albatross chick.  I think this is a Laysan Albatross, they have white on the underside.  When they are very young they are shy and look away.  As they get older they start snapping their beaks at you if you get too close. 
Albatross Chick by Bryan Chernick, on Flickr

Bryan

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Re: Tern Island
« Reply #3 on: June 21, 2024, 05:46:37 PM »
Roll #4.  Same camera, Olympus OM-1 with Olympus OM-System S Zuiko MC Auto-Zoom f/4 35-70mm, Yellow filter.  Developed Adox HR-50 in Beerenol (Rainier Beer).

Frigatebird sitting on a post. 
Frigatebird by Bryan Chernick, on Flickr

Lots of Boobies.  This area has a pool of ocean water behind the crumbling sea wall.  This is one of the safe locations to bathe.  The tiger sharks flock to Tern island to feed on the chicks when they land in the water during their flying lessons.  That makes swimming in the open ocean less appealing.  While bathing in this area its funny to look up and see all the boobies watching. 
Red-Footed Boobies by Bryan Chernick, on Flickr

This was my tend during my stay there.  You can see just in front of the step is a Sooty Tern, she was nesting on an egg the whole time I was there and never moved.  Even with me stepping over her she held her ground.  A little further out is an albatross chick, it was there the whole time as well.  When it got hot in the sun it did move into the shade of our tent a few times. 
Tent by Bryan Chernick, on Flickr

This is the old warehouse that was left there by the Coast Guard when they used the island for a LORAN station.  It's still used to store supplies for NOAA and Fish and Wildlife but the black noddy have taken over the building and are nesting and pooping on everything in there.  The building sustained a little damage during a hurricane, enough to let the birds get in.  On the opposite side of the building is a ladder to the roof.  That's where we're supposed to go in the event of a tsunami or storm surge.  Being just a few feet above sea level, large waves wash across the whole island.   Those are sooty tern swarming around and nesting on the ground. 
Warehouse by Bryan Chernick, on Flickr

Bryan

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Re: Tern Island
« Reply #4 on: June 26, 2024, 05:00:22 PM »
Roll #5.  Same camera, lens film and developer.  I've been developing these one roll at a time, that way if there's a screw up I only loose one roll.  This was a once in a lifetime trip, I'll probably never get to go back there with all the restrictions they have. 

Another Red-Footed Booby sitting on the rusty old seawall. 
Red-Footed Booby by Bryan Chernick, on Flickr

Mature Laysan Albatross.
Laysan Albatross by Bryan Chernick, on Flickr

My third photo of this white tern sitting on this post.  It really liked this spot and didn't seem to mind me getting close for a photo. 
White Tern on a post by Bryan Chernick, on Flickr

This old tractor is a rare nesting spot since all the trees were destroyed in the hurricane.  This tractor was sitting inside a building when the hurricane hit in 2012.  It's the only thing remaining in that spot.  They found one of the tires on the other side of the island, no sign of the building.  The storm surge swept over the island and caused a lot of damage taking out building, wiping out all the trees and eroding a lot of land. 
Kubota LA1162 by Bryan Chernick, on Flickr

From left to right, the warehouse, the barracks and our toilet.  The barracks were still being used up until the hurricane hit.  The walls of the barracks were designed to blow out in a hurricane, that's what happened.  It's now another nesting spot for the birds. 
Warehouse and Barracks by Bryan Chernick, on Flickr

This is an article about the storm and the evacuation of the scientists.  https://www.papahanaumokuakea.gov/news/tern_evacuation.html

Bryan

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Re: Tern Island
« Reply #5 on: July 05, 2024, 05:41:31 PM »
Some color film, Kodak Ektachrome 100D, slightly expired 10/2020.

I could almost always find this white tern on this post.  Such a pretty little bird I couldn't resist taking pictures of it. 
Sleeping White Tern by Bryan Chernick, on Flickr

This firgatebird was trying to entice the red-footed booby into playing.  I think the booby didn't want to have anything to do with it.
Frigatebird playing with a Red-Footed Booby by Bryan Chernick, on Flickr

Black noddy with its egg.  They just pick a spot on the ground and that's the nest. 
Black Noddy with Egg by Bryan Chernick, on Flickr

Red-footed Booby closeup.
Red-Footed Booby by Bryan Chernick, on Flickr

Masked booby with its chick.  One of the parents always needs to look over the chicks.  If they don't the frigatebirds will swoop down and take them.  They don't go after the giant albatross chicks but do go after the smaller chicks like this. 
Masked Booby with Chick by Bryan Chernick, on Flickr

Bryan

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Re: Tern Island
« Reply #6 on: July 11, 2024, 12:47:20 AM »
Roll #7 More Ektachrome 100D.

Shell beach on the North side of the island. 
Shell Beach by Bryan Chernick, on Flickr

In this photo you can see the shallow Turquoise water, just beyond that is dark blue water.  That's a channel they dredged material from to make Tern Island into a runway during WWII.  beyond that is the outer reef of the French Frigate Shoals where the waves are breaking.  As the water comes over the outer reef it follows the deep channel out around the West side of the island.  It's like a fast moving river and can cause a lot of erosion to the island as the sea wall rots away.
Pier on Shell Beach by Bryan Chernick, on Flickr

Black noddy watching a green sea turtle basking on the beach. 
Green Sea Turtle by Bryan Chernick, on Flickr

Black noddy and frigatebird nesting on an old backhoe.
Birds on a Backhoe by Bryan Chernick, on Flickr

More red-footed boobies.
Red-Footed Boobies on a Bar by Bryan Chernick, on Flickr

Bryan

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Re: Tern Island
« Reply #7 on: July 11, 2024, 12:59:18 AM »
Roll #7 continued.

Laysan Albatross Chick starting to loose it's downy feathers.
Laysan Albatross Chick by Bryan Chernick, on Flickr

Frigatebird hovering over me.  These birds can have a wing span up to 2.3 meters (7.5 feet).  These birds are amazing, they can fly as high as 4,000 meters, and stay aloft for 185 days. 
Frigatebird in Flight by Bryan Chernick, on Flickr

Male firgatebirds courting a lady with their inflated red pouches.
Frigatebird Males Showing Off by Bryan Chernick, on Flickr

Camp with blue 5 gallon water jugs, enough fresh water to last the team of scientists 6 months.  Only for cooking and drinking, everything else is done with sea water, bathing, cleaning, etc.
Camp by Bryan Chernick, on Flickr

Indofunk

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Re: Tern Island
« Reply #8 on: July 15, 2024, 09:20:51 PM »
Fascinating story/history lesson! And amazing pictures!! Thanks for all the information 😁

Bryan

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Re: Tern Island
« Reply #9 on: July 18, 2024, 08:53:42 PM »
Fascinating story/history lesson! And amazing pictures!! Thanks for all the information 😁

Thanks!

Bryan

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Re: Tern Island
« Reply #10 on: July 18, 2024, 09:02:43 PM »
Last roll!  Olympus OM-1 with Olympus OM-System S Zuiko MC Auto-Zoom f/4 35-70mm, Yellow filter.  Ferrania P30 developed in Rodinal 1:50. 

This is what it was like all day when I was working there.  We took a reading of the sound level, it was between 90 and 120 decibels.
Tern Swarm by Bryan Chernick, on Flickr

When I first arrived this swarm of sooty terns started out close to the other end of the island, it then slowly worked it's way to the camp just before I left. 
Sooty Terns Swarming Camp by Bryan Chernick, on Flickr

Another view of the old barracks.
Old Barracks by Bryan Chernick, on Flickr

Silhouette of a black noddy nesting on a light fixture that fell from the ceiling in the old barracks.
Black Noddy Nesting in Barracks by Bryan Chernick, on Flickr

Bryan

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Re: Tern Island
« Reply #11 on: July 18, 2024, 09:06:44 PM »
You can see in this photo where the sea wall is missing there has been a lot of beach erosion.  Those concrete slabs on the beach used to be on dry land.  That's the old warehouse in the background. 
Warehouse and Beach by Bryan Chernick, on Flickr

John Deere backhoe being used for nesting.  This is one of two backhoes on the island that were destroyed in the hurricane. 
John Deer Backhoe by Bryan Chernick, on Flickr

rotarysmp

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Re: Tern Island
« Reply #12 on: August 06, 2024, 09:25:13 AM »
I really enjoy your photo essays Bryan. You have a very good eye.
Best regards, Meilleures salutations, Mit freundlichen Grüßen, Cu salutari
Mark
https://www.youtube.com/c/RotarySMP

Bryan

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Re: Tern Island
« Reply #13 on: August 06, 2024, 04:52:55 PM »
I really enjoy your photo essays Bryan. You have a very good eye.
Thanks, I appreciate that, glad you're enjoying them!