Topic: 220 Development

[irv_b]

I snagged a stash of Porta 400 and 800 in 220 and was going to dev it myself as its a tenner a roll if the lab does it (funnily enough 4x5 is only 4 quid???).
 So as they have doubled the price of processing I wondered if the amounts of chemicals and time are increased? I have sacrifced a roll to ensure that it fits on the reels I have so I'm covered there plus if you any other tip I'm open .
Cheers Irv

[Francois]

Well... In a sense the greater surface of 220 will wear out the chemicals faster than a roll of 120.
The surface of a roll of 35mm 36exp=120=8x10
So a roll of 220=two 8x10.
That's how they calculate how much work the chemicals get.

[MacArron]

I took my colour films and slides for developing to an inexpensive photo and lab company, with shops all around Spain, nowadays more dedicated to printing duties and that sort of things.

The point is that they charge the same amount being 135 (12/24/36), 120 or 220 rolls. Of course, I won't say anything I am happy paying 3,5 EUR per negative and 4,5 per slide developing...

[Sandeha Lynch]

Your typical Jobo tank is designed to take either two 120 rolls or a single 220 without any adjustment to the quantity or mix - the implication being that only doing a single 120 is actually a bit of a waste of chemistry.

While on the topic, since 220 colour rolls often are cheaper than they might be (at least in comparison to any b&w I've seen) can anyone suggest a foolproof recipe for using b&w chemicals on colour negative film?  Or is it down to trial-and-improvement with each and every emulsion?  Rodinal and Ilford DDX are the only chems I have available.

[Bryan]

While on the topic, since 220 colour rolls often are cheaper than they might be (at least in comparison to any b&w I've seen) can anyone suggest a foolproof recipe for using b&w chemicals on colour negative film?  Or is it down to trial-and-improvement with each and every emulsion?  Rodinal and Ilford DDX are the only chems I have available.

I've had good results Semi-Stand Developing colour negative film in Rodinal 1-100 for one hour. This was expired Kodak Gold 200.  It has an orange mask that made it blue when I reversed it.  I usually just make it monotone. 

Masts & Rigging by Bryan Chernick, on Flickr

This was expired Kodacolor-X that expired in 1973 developed in Beerenol (Beer).  Kodacolor films seem to work quite well in black and white developers. 

Gun at Illahee State Park by Bryan Chernick, on Flickr

[Sandeha Lynch]

I've had good results Semi-Stand Developing colour negative film in Rodinal 1-100 for one hour. This was expired Kodak Gold 200.  It has an orange mask that made it blue when I reversed it.  I usually just make it monotone. 

Masts & Rigging by Bryan Chernick, on Flickr

This was expired Kodacolor-X that expired in 1973 developed in Beerenol (Beer).  Kodacolor films seem to work quite well in black and white developers. 

Gun at Illahee State Park by Bryan Chernick, on Flickr

Ah, that's brilliant, Bryan.  I was wondering if a long stand dev recipe might be a good idea (see how I neatly avoided an obvious pun there!!)

[Francois]

And on the contrary, I soup my C41 in PQ Universal for 10 minutes!
That's what I do to my found films. While they come out an odd brown color, they scan just fine.

[Bryan]

Ah, that's brilliant, Bryan.  I was wondering if a long stand dev recipe might be a good idea (see how I neatly avoided an obvious pun there!!)

Just make sure it's semi-stand to help avoid bromide drag, especially if you have sprocket holes.