Author Topic: Fujifilm FP-100C as Pos/Neg!! (Read 50183 times)

Phil Bebbington · « **Reply #50 on:** April 20, 2010, 12:06:04 AM »

Nice one, Bob. Thanks for adding this to the thread.

original_ann · « **Reply #51 on:** April 20, 2010, 02:02:28 AM »

Beautiful and inspiring!

calbisu · « **Reply #52 on:** April 23, 2010, 03:32:57 PM »

I also tried it! Simple what I did. Remove the goop with cold water and fingers. Tape plus glass (I need to find a stronger tape), paper towels, lots of bleach, weight. 20 minutes. Remove with paper towel. Water to clean and rinse..

Original and Negative.

[Sorry, image deleted during forum software upgrade. Please re-upload if so inclined.]

Phil Bebbington · « **Reply #53 on:** April 23, 2010, 06:53:15 PM »

Dribbling with the need to try!

Ed Wenn · « **Reply #54 on:** May 10, 2010, 12:34:33 AM »

Hey, I finally found a few minutes to try my hand at scanning one of the negs that Damion & I recovered during the filmimg we did for the next video podcast (almost done BTW) and had more luck. I think the negs I started out with were too dense after all (or underexposed). This one produced a much better result. Still signs of chemicals a la a goop scan, but very cool nonetheless. I'll be using this process again for sure now that I've managed to get a half decent scan.

moominsean · « **Reply #55 on:** December 07, 2010, 07:02:54 PM »

finally got around to trying this...super easy and love the results! Did a quick blog post about it:

http://moominsean.blogspot.com/2010/12/reclaimed-fuji-intant-negs.html

Ed Wenn · « **Reply #56 on:** December 08, 2010, 01:37:47 AM »

'Tis a fine process innit!

Phil Bebbington · « **Reply #57 on:** December 08, 2010, 05:05:09 PM »

Sean, thanks for taking the time to do it.

vicky slater · « **Reply #58 on:** January 09, 2011, 03:31:46 PM »

well i tried it out at last :)
i used a picture of me that my husband took today (taken to see if he could nail the focus on my eye).
it was colour fp100 but i converted to b/w.
i only gave the bleach 20 minutes because i was too impatient :)
anyway for a first attempt i really like it and prefer it to the positive...i'll choose a picture i like next time.
thanks for the very clear instructions!

(this has come out really soft on here...you can see it bigger here if you're interested.. http://www.flickr.com/photos/janeway/5339494020/)

original_ann · « **Reply #59 on:** January 09, 2011, 11:37:16 PM »

Wow, you're right Vicky - I have been so lazy about bleaching my negs and I think I need to get on the ball! This is a lovely straightforward portrait.

Mojave · « **Reply #60 on:** January 10, 2011, 05:32:13 AM »

Gorgeous Vicky! I need to get to my negs too.

original_ann · « **Reply #61 on:** September 06, 2012, 11:41:30 PM »

I'm going to revive this thread. It's been about 6 months or so since the last bits of conversation on reclaiming fuji negatives. I've been having fun with the reclaiming part... but the scanning is just a bunch of confusion for me. I've tried SilverFast and Vuescan. Sometimes the colors are so off, there is no getting a workable image even with considerable color adjustments. This is frustrating because the first one I ever scanned rendered so beautifully and I can't recall what settings I used that made it so effortless.

Realizing this is not a 'one size fits all' or an exact science. But how about some successful scanning tips? What film profile do you assign? I've tried Agfa color films, Fuji NPS, Kodak 160NC just to name a few - each has their own cast/correction and again, it's all hit or miss.

calbisu · « **Reply #62 on:** September 07, 2012, 06:33:42 AM »

Hi Vicky, I have not bleached my FP100C negatives for a while (maybe because I haven´t shot 100c for a while..) but I remember couple of things. If your negative is fully workable, meaning that there is a lot of info in it (because you shot one or two steps underexposed) there there is no problem getting a ¨true¨color rendition, still you will have to play with levels in the scanning preview, and you will see that the color temperature varies a lot. I attach the room shot with Elena which looks normal. If your negative does not have lots of info then you will not be able to obtain a full color rendition but only yellowish to greenish results, not matter how much you play with it, that would be my second shots with the palm trees.

So, I would say that playing with level helps, and also sometimes applying color correction too

PD But to be honest I think the second shot tones were due to the fact that I could not match the correct colour..

This-is-damion · « **Reply #63 on:** December 05, 2013, 01:13:28 PM »

I have a question....

Why specifically do you need to use a piece of glass to tape the neg to?

This is probably a stupid question - but im going to ask regardless

Alan · « **Reply #64 on:** December 05, 2013, 01:28:06 PM »

my understanding is that -

you only want to bleach the back side of the neg

&

the glass is handy also to check if all the dark matter
has been bleached.

This-is-damion · « **Reply #65 on:** December 05, 2013, 01:38:15 PM »

cool. I guess the only thing thats stopping me doing this is the lack of a bit of glass that im not currently using as a window.

Francois · « **Reply #66 on:** December 05, 2013, 02:53:35 PM »

Just "borrow" your wife's hand mirror

I'm sure she'll be happy to see all the black gunk on the frame

SLVR · « **Reply #67 on:** December 05, 2013, 02:55:41 PM »

Alan is correct. The Glass helps to check your work with the bleach.

Also I found that temperature and bleach time doesn't really matter. I usually dump a dollar sized amount of bleach in the middle of my negs and spread it around with an old toothbrush. Wait about a minute and start scrubbing and rinsing it off. The black backing comes off a lot easier than lead to believe

moominsean · « **Reply #68 on:** December 05, 2013, 02:57:14 PM »

In case anyone hasn't seen it...

Bleaching Fuji FP-100B negative

Alan · « **Reply #69 on:** December 05, 2013, 09:30:07 PM »

Nice one sean ill be trying this next time around

Francois · « **Reply #70 on:** December 05, 2013, 09:34:35 PM »

I'm wondering if it works with hydrogen peroxide?

limr · « **Reply #71 on:** December 05, 2013, 11:48:33 PM »

I took the glass out of an old 3x5 photo frame that I wasn't using and it's the perfect size. I use gel bleach and rubber gloves and just use my fingers to gently rub in little circles. I do 3-4 passes and all the black comes off. Most of the negatives have scanned well - as mentioned it's better to slightly underexpose to get a better recovered negative - but the last two I tried to recover scanned terribly. I'm not sure why. I actually had quite a few problems with the last two packs of 100C I shot. I thought my camera was effing-up, which it might very well be, but I haven't ruled out the film. Maybe a bad batch? Hrmmmm...

Bryan · « **Reply #72 on:** December 05, 2013, 11:59:43 PM »

What do you do about the developing chemical goo on the other side of the negative? Does this work with FP-3000b?

limr · « **Reply #73 on:** December 06, 2013, 12:07:35 AM »

Quote from: BAC1967 on December 05, 2013, 11:59:43 PM

What do you do about the developing chemical goo on the other side of the negative? Does this work with FP-3000b?

Doesn't work on the 3000B. You can scan it and convert it to a positive, but bleaching it will just take everything off. The 'film' part is actually an opaque white, not clear like the 100C. (Yes, I found this out the hard way

)

As for the goo - the first time I bleached a negative, I took it off because it got all messed up anyway, and the negative image was still on the film, so I figured it was okay to remove the goo. Even though the negatives seem to come out fine, though, I still wonder in the back of my mind if it's 'right' or not.

moominsean · « **Reply #74 on:** December 06, 2013, 01:01:05 AM »

You can wash the goo off of 100C without any worries. The image is pretty well embedded and will only sometimes start to peel along one edge. 100B is much more fragile and you can wash the emulsion right off the plastic without much effort. But I scrub all the goop off the 100C with my fingers.

Like said above, none of this works with 3000B, but it has its own negative already from the "throwaway" side of the peel.

Adam Doe · « **Reply #75 on:** December 06, 2013, 01:12:26 AM »

Still feel indebted to Sean for his video. Best method I've tried. Simple and effective.

Francois · « **Reply #76 on:** December 06, 2013, 02:49:26 PM »

You just don't want to do like I did last night: I dropped a bleached FP-100B on the floor of my drying cabinet before hanging it to dry. I had to re-wash it this morning and carefully remove a ton of specks of saw dust from the emulsion side... And I thought I had cleaned-up that floor when I built that cabinet $:-\$

Ed Wenn · « **Reply #77 on:** December 08, 2013, 12:29:18 AM »

Quote from: moominsean on December 05, 2013, 02:57:14 PM

In case anyone hasn't seen it...

Cheers, Sean. That is so simple I feel like I might want to try it again after all this time. And BTW, do you only ever shoot videos in your pyjamas?

Ed Wenn · « **Reply #78 on:** December 08, 2013, 12:29:59 AM »

Quote from: Francois on December 06, 2013, 02:49:26 PM

You just don't want to do like I did last night: I dropped a bleached FP-100B on the floor of my drying cabinet before hanging it to dry. I had to re-wash it this morning and carefully remove a ton of specks of saw dust from the emulsion side... And I thought I had cleaned-up that floor when I built that cabinet $:-\$

Doh! Hope you got it cleaned up eventually.

Francois · « **Reply #79 on:** December 08, 2013, 02:13:47 PM »

Well... I did remove most of the big chunks. I had to re-wet the film and got quite a few scratches on the emulsion.
Somehow, I found it relatively funny to see my film look like a mixture of stuck-on porridge and worn out sandpaper!

Thankfully, Photoshop's dust and scratches filter managed to remove a lot of it.