Topic: Any Recommendations for B&W developer

[charles binns]

I am just about to run out or Rodinal and it struck me that I ought to try a  different developer for my b&w processing.

I mainly use Ilford (PanF, FP4+ & Delta 3200) and Kodak TriX.

Would be interested to know what other people use with these films.  Whatever I use has to be long lasting & I don't like fannying around with powders much.

[astrobeck]

Hi Charles,
I like Arista Premium developer.
Freestyle Photographic sells it here in the USA, and it's probably re-badged from something else, but I don't know what.  I can do some digging if you are interested.

It's consistent, comes in a liquid and lasts a long time.

I've been using it exclusively for the past year and a half and so far no complaints.
I mostly use Fuji Acros 100 and Ilford HP5 these days.
I dilute it 9-1 and process for 7 minutes.

[Photo_Utopia]

I think you'll get quite a few different answers but here goes. For the record I love Rodinal, it's not everyones cup of tea but it is versatile and gives those wonderful mid tones if you reduce the speed and use weaker dilutions.
That said the epitaxial and T grain films sometimes look nice in mild speed increasing developers like DDX or T Max developer.

Standard fine grain developers like D76 or ID11 are consistent as are HC110 and Ilfotec HC really nothing to object to there (apart from the first two being powders).
Years ago I was fond of slow films in Acuspecial, Acutol or Tetenal Neofin Blau not sure if any of those still exist.
There was a speed increasing developer called Ilford Hyfin which gave an effective speed of 200 with FP4 although you got VERY defined sharp grain, those negs were sharp!

I'd say these days high dilution is the way to go so Rodinal, Ilfotec HC or HC110 would be my choices.

[LT]

I think you'll be very happy if you spend out the small amount extra and opt for one of the proprietary catechol based developers.  Try Moersch Tannol or Peter Hogan's Prescyscol.

[charles binns]

Astrobeck - thank you.

Photo Utopia - I agree with you, I love Rodinal too especially highly diluted, but I have been using it for a while and feel the need to explore something different.

Leon - I certainly l would like to try Prescyscol, especially looking at some of Paul Mitchell's pinholes.  I will look into Tannol as well.

[Francois]

But if you're looking for long life, very fast processing and good results, HC-110 is pretty much the way to go.
Just don't dilute it like Kodak says. I dilute it directly from concentrate so the chemistry stays good a heck of a long time.

[Aki]

+1 for HC-110 if liquid is requirement.  I've used it with Tri-X, HP5+, PanF and then some, and have been pretty happy.  It's good for pushing, and lasts forever in stock form while I flirt with other developers.

[Karl]

Moersch Tannol (I use speed version) is my favourite - great for FP4 and HP5. You have to mix parts A and B so there is an extra step to take
Kodak Xtol is good - although it's a powder so forget it if you don't want the hassle
Paterson Aculux 3 is fab - fine grain, good acutance, lasts quite well (not up to Rodinal but...). Meant to be good for scanning, not sure why this one ahead of anyhting else but

[Nigel]

I'm happy to second, or third, the HC-110 recommendation. I use it for Tri-X and I'm very happy with it and it lasts for ages.

[Nick Moys]

Another vote for Moersch film developers from me.  I'm very pleased with the results I'm getting using Finol with FP4, HP5, TMax100/400 and Acros.  It is designed for fine grain and sharpness rather than speed, so you'd need something else for the Delta 3200.
Nick

[charles binns]

Thanks for al the recommendations.  Prescysol or Tano are the two developers that I want to try out - one question though: do I need to use alkali stop & fixer with them? 

[LT]

do I need to use alkali stop & fixer with them? 

No - don't worry about the alkaline fix,  the benefits are only minimal.

don't use an acid stop though, it will create pinholes.  In fact, don't use a stop bath at all, just a couple of rinses with water will do. 

[charles binns]

Just developed 22 rolls with Prescysol and I really like the results! 

I am now scanning the negs and I have a question.  I usually scan b&w negs as b&w files (obviously) but the Prescysol stains the negs so if I scan it as a b&w file I lose that staining effect.  Tried to scan as a colour file but didn't really like the result - though maybe I used the wrong settings.  Does anyone have recomendations as to how I should scan these films.

Have scanned a couple as b&w files using my normal settings and I like the results but I lose the stained effect.

[Francois]

I always scan B&W in color and then select the channel I like best and delete the rest.

[Paul Mitchell]

As with all techniques it's down to personal preference, trial and error etc. Here's my technique for scanning my Prescysol developed negs...

All my negs are scanned as 16bit linear (a bit like a RAW file) RGB files. I then change it to greyscale in PS and pass it through a proprietary piece of software called 'Colorperfect' http://www.c-f-systems.com/Plug-ins.html which gives excellent starting point. I then use curves to achieve a balanced result.

Alternatively a very good friend of mine who runs the Manual Focus Forum (a bit like FW except for lenses!) has his own excellent technique http://oomz.net/bw_workflow/

Paul

[LT]

I scan in 16bit grey scale. The scanner still 'sees' the stain before it converts so you won't be losing valuable information. There is a comparison article tucked away in a corner of the interwebs that compares the rgb vs greyscale scanning of stained negs - by Sandy King IIRC. I think it suggested there was no real difference between the results of each. I can't locate the article right now though.

[charles binns]

Paul, Leon

Thanks for the valuable information.  I have been scanning a few negs as 16 bit greyscale as I normally would and the results are pretty good. I'm really pleased with the results Prescysol  gave me though.  I normally convert b&w scans to RGB in Photoshop and give them a slight tint there.  Will definitely look up the article and also try out Paul's recommendations.