Author Topic: Ilford Mark V 35mm 1000ft Reel (Read 9245 times)

LeonY · « **on:** May 12, 2011, 01:17:30 AM »

Hi Everyone, 1st time poster, long time lurker..
Just scored a 1000ft Tin of Ilford Mark v for $20AUD, however i dont know how to develop it properly. The tin has a hand written note to develop for 9 minutes but its does not say in what! I tried Rodinal 1+25 @ 20c for 7min(+1min for film age) and it came out a bit underdeveloped. Has anyone had experience with this film? What developer to use how long for? I have ID-11, Xtol and Rodinal at hands reach! If I get no replies, ill try them all for 3 different times and post results!

LT · « **Reply #1 on:** May 12, 2011, 07:34:37 AM »

Hi and welcome to fw!

I've never heard of Ilford mk V but if 8 minutes in rodinal lead to it being underdeveloped, why not trh it at about 10 minutes and see what you get then?

When you say underdeveloped, I guess you are saying the exposure is ok?

I'll stick my neck out and hazard a guess at the time suggested being for development in ID-11 Stock seeing as that is Ilford's standard developer.

LeonY · « **Reply #2 on:** May 12, 2011, 07:47:06 AM »

Cheers, will try ID-11 tonight!
>>When you say underdeveloped, I guess you are saying the exposure is ok?
Yeah the exposure is fine, I just shot one scence 20 times with different exposures to get a good range of examples. the ones that were properly exposed looked ifne, but definitely not developed. I think the stuff is old and may have fogged! will report back!

LT · « **Reply #3 on:** May 12, 2011, 08:33:43 AM »

great name by the way. In fact, it's the BEST name.

May need to add some restrainer to combat the fog .... ?

Andrea. · « **Reply #4 on:** May 12, 2011, 03:19:34 PM »

Yep, I've always loved the name Mark too :-)

Francois · « **Reply #5 on:** May 12, 2011, 03:56:54 PM »

Welcome Leon

Being old movie film, I know it was designed to have an inversion process. Usually, it goes Developer, bleach, inversion, re-developer, stop, fix... or something like that.
This with the addition of what is probably a serious fog layer would probably account for the low contrast you're getting.

Since fog is always equal all over the frame, you could potentially check it against an unexposed well developed frame. This would give you the base+fog level which can then be compared to a fully exposed frame (taking a blown out exposure of a white wall) to get the maximum density (D-Max). Then you can tell a bit if it's an issue with the developer or the film.

And if all else fails, soup it up in Dektol

LT · « **Reply #6 on:** May 12, 2011, 04:38:52 PM »

Leon - (feels weird saying that ... I dont come across too many others), have you considered emailing Ilford Photo? they are extremely helpful and may be able to give you the tech data you need re developing this film. you can get them via their website - http://www.ilfordphoto.com/contactform.asp

sapata · « **Reply #7 on:** May 12, 2011, 07:57:00 PM »

I'm confused when it comes to processing movie films. Is this emulsion same as a normal 35mm negative? I have a couple of old Kodak 8mm B&W (one inside my old Brownie Movie Camera) but I was told that this was a complete different way of processing...

Francois · « **Reply #8 on:** May 12, 2011, 10:12:27 PM »

in a way it is a completely different process simply because you don't want a negative (unless you're doing some really artsy video).

Most of the processes involve a re-exposure of the film to white light at some point... just like some slide processes. Sometimes they use a chemical fogger instead.

Andrea. · « **Reply #9 on:** May 12, 2011, 10:33:17 PM »

I have shot kodak fine grained positive [iso circa 5] in-camera for a neg. and isn't polypan-f a movie copy film too?

LeonY · « **Reply #10 on:** May 13, 2011, 12:58:28 AM »

Hey everyone, 1st thanks for all your help. I did not have time to test out the id11 last night so ill do that tonight.

Francois: Thanks for reminding me about the process, i totally forgot that this may actually be a traversable film! I have shot 8mm BW before and had to do some pretty hard work to develop it properly. Like you suggested, develop, wash, expose to light, acid bath, redevelop, fix and wash! I gave up on that after my 1st roll! But I have a feeling this Mark V film is just regular BW. When i developed it in rodinal it came out just fine but underdeveloped, it did not look like the 8mm i did a while go. But ill see tonight!

LeonY · « **Reply #11 on:** May 13, 2011, 10:28:04 AM »

Developed another roll in ID11 20c for 11 min,still foggy

LT · « **Reply #12 on:** May 13, 2011, 11:17:46 AM »

sounds like it's time to whip the benzotriazole out.

LeonY · « **Reply #13 on:** May 13, 2011, 11:20:32 AM »

whats that??

LeonY · « **Reply #14 on:** May 13, 2011, 12:15:31 PM »

Quote from: leon taylor link=topic=4090 .msg44384#msg44384 date=1305281866

sounds like it's time to whip the benzotriazole out.

Leon,sorry for my laziness.did some research into the benzotriazole you sugested. allot of people recomend not using it,as it reduces iso.the fog isnt that bad and could easily be printed through. ill do some test prints this weelrnd and update

Francois · « **Reply #15 on:** May 13, 2011, 03:40:29 PM »

Worse case scenario would be that you'd have to play with the paper's contrast... so all ain't lost.

LeonY · « **Reply #16 on:** May 14, 2011, 08:48:28 AM »

ok i ordered 10g of benzotriazole to try it out,ive read on some forums to add 1% to developer.is that correct?

Skorj · « **Reply #17 on:** May 14, 2011, 01:06:22 PM »

Absolutely (positively) no idea about the details, but if it is expired, then some correction would also be required? Regardless, great price! Skj.

LeonY · « **Reply #18 on:** May 14, 2011, 01:17:10 PM »

one thing im confused about, the 10grams i ordered.how do i mix it. If i put 1g in 100ml of water is that going to effectively dilute in that 100ml?? this process is obviously old so its hard to find any info on this.amy input you guys have would be helpfull

LT · « **Reply #19 on:** May 14, 2011, 06:22:25 PM »

H Leon - sorry to drop that on you then disappear ... been busy

you need to make a percentage solution. the standard is a 0.2% solution for benzotriazole ... mix as follows:

mix 2 grams of benzotriazole with 750 ml of water at 125F/52C. Once dissolved, top up the water to 1 litre.

then add about 15ml of this solution per 1 litre of your working developer and see how you get on - add more if it doesnt work. It will reduce film speed though.

All of this said, if you are printing traditionally and on mg/vc paper, a uniform base fog shouldn't really matter too much - just print through it.

hope that helps

leon

LeonY · « **Reply #20 on:** May 15, 2011, 02:21:45 AM »

got it! cheers Leon. the benzotriazole arrives tuesday ill try it out then and will print some tests also.

LeonY · « **Reply #21 on:** May 17, 2011, 12:39:24 PM »

OOAKAYY!
Great news. Leon thanks for all your help. Got the benzotriazole today made my mixture as you suggested. I shot a small roll of this film at 400iso and 200iso. Developed for 11minutes in ID-11 at 20c + 4ml of the benzotriazole mixture. The negs came out markedly better with heaps less fog. I did not see a marked decrease in ISO however which is good and strange at the same time. I will add double the dose for the next roll and see if that helps! Will print some this week and upload them

LT · « **Reply #22 on:** May 20, 2011, 08:22:15 AM »

glad it helped. Just a bit of fine tuning now by the sound of things.