if you're looking for neutral, I'd avoid the warmtone developers and possibly the ilford warmtone paper ... although the newer version does have a whiter base, if you still have the older stuff, it is probably too creamy for what you are after. Ilford Harman Warmtone developer is to readily reddy-warm to use for neutral tones I'd say
fomabrom variant paper is nicely neutral with a nice bright white base - and if the tones on my monitor are anything to go by, a slightly cooler developer is called for - you can go two ways with this - either use your pq universal at a stronger dilution (based on the premise that under developed prints will always be warmer in appearance) or opt for a cool developer - Tetenal Eukobrom is great - not particularly Bluey, but still cooler than most.
OR - you could use your PQ then selenium (which is totally safe provided you follow the safety instructions) - selenium has an initial cooling effect before it starts to turn plummy - the make of toner, dilution, temperature, type of paper and even developer used will all impact on the nature of the reaction. The problem is by the time the mid tones are turning bluey, the shadows have already gone plummy so you will effect a split. I find this is easier with Maco Selenia rather than any of the other makes - Kodak comes close though. Harman Selenium toner is not great for forcing colour changes, but fine for archival toning or subtle effects.
OR - you could use your PQ fairly dilute to force a greeny-warm tone, then neutralise in a relatively weak selenium.
Finally, if you want to go super cool, straight gold toning will do the trick - if you can afford the toner!
hope that helps
L
