Whenever I use and process expired film, I always use the film speed as stated by the manufacturer
and process it like it is new film. I'm not a big fan of Rodinal (I don't care for the grain). I've used
XTOL with good results, but I like Edwal FG7 best of all (I don't use sodium sulfite, and I use a 1:7 dilution).
For what it's worth, here's my standard procedure for developing film, regardless of speed/brand. The temperature is the usual 68 Degrees F/20 Degrees C.
-One minute pre-soak with gentle agitation for the first 15 seconds
-Drain tank
-Developing: 8 minutes; first minute with constant, gentle agitation; then gentle agitation for the first 15 seconds every minute thereafter.
-Drain tank, but do not rinse. Fill tank with water.
-Water bath developing: 5 minutes, gentle agitation for the first 15 seconds every minute.
-Drain tank
-Stop Bath: Place tank under running water for 2 minutes.
-Drain tank
-Fixer: I use Photographer's Formulary TF-4, mixed 1:4. 4 minutes; 30 seconds of gentle agitation every
minute.
-Drain tank
-Wash: 10 minutes under running water
-Drain tank
-Fuji Driwell (or PhotoFlo) for 30 seconds with gentle agitation.
-Do not squeegee the film, simply hang it up to dry.
Nothing fancy, but it works for me. I have my film scanned at my job (I don't have the patience to do it myself). Once I have the cd, I run the good images through Photoshop. The images are cropped and straightened (if needed), and then I'll add a bit of curves or levels, as our lab scans tend to be flat.
Now, as for base fog...that can often be taken care of with Curves or Levels in Photoshop. Sometimes, you get lucky and the film comes out with none at all. Six months ago, I processed a roll of Panatomic X that "expired" in 1978. It has no fog at all.
OK...we've got some lovely weather here...there's some expired film in my freezer that I am going to shoot today...should it be the Ansco Superpan Press from 1950, or the Panatomic X from 1948...hmmm...
