Topic: Film processing (very) basics - schoolboy stuff

[choppert]

Pip-pip all,

The eBay sourced developing tank arrived this morning.

I've some TMax 400 to expose.

Where's a good starting point for developer and fixer?  Is wetting agent recommended?

And one short query....  I've practiced using the take-up spooling thing with an old fiilm.  Once it is developed, fixed and washed, how do I get the film out of the white spool?! 

Thanks,


Chops

[al]

I haven't got enough experience to recommend developers etc, but I'd definately say get some wetting agent.  I tried a while without it but always ended up with either watermarks or scratches from badly squeegeed film. Or I'd be in such a panic not to get one of the above and clumsily drop the film in the dust 

I got some wetting agent from an ebay seller who I'm sure was buying in bulk and selling in little bottles (or perhaps he sold me two squirts of washing up liquid for 99p!!) anyway it wast cheap and works fine.  Alternatively use distilled water for the final rinse.

When you've developed the film, just take hold of the the end and gently pull,it will unclip it from the guides then you can unwind it a lttle. once it starts it comes out easy. Really, it's no problem.

Main tip is make sure everything is totally bone dry before you try to load the film in the reel.

Good luck!!

[choppert]

Thanks Al 

[Hannah]

I'm about to develop my first roll of film too. I've bought a beginners developing kit, Ilford Ilfosol 3 film dev, Ilford Rapid Fixer and Ilford Ilfostop stop bath online. Now I've just got to wait for them to arrive! I'm excited

[moominsean]

d-76 is a good basic developer to start with... produced consistent results. generally what you would use in a photo class.

[Pete_R]

I've some TMax 400 to expose.

Where's a good starting point for developer and fixer?  Is wetting agent recommended?

I'm sure everyone has their favourite developers but I would recommend Paterson FX-39. It's formulated for the T grained films. Alternatively, use Tmax developer. For fix again I recommend Paterson Acufix but I don't think there's much to choose between them. Some people might also recommend a stop bath but I just use a water rinse.

I would recommend a wetting agent. For years I've used about two drops of Fairy Liquid (washing up liquids vary so can't recommend any others). I'm currently using Rollei RWA but I don't think the results are necessarily any better. Don't over agitate the film in the wetting agent as it can froth up, then you'll have problems drying.

You didn't ask about squeegeeing. There's been a discussion on it here before if you search, but I always squeegee. Have done for 30 odd years and never had a problem. You might like to try not squeegeeing first but if you get problems drying, then try it.

Make sure you hang the film somewhere dust free to dry. If you don't have proper film clips then a couple of bulldog clips work. I hang mine in the shower.

And one short query....  I've practiced using the take-up spooling thing with an old fiilm.  Once it is developed, fixed and washed, how do I get the film out of the white spool?! 

If you're using the plastic spools that split into two halfs, just twist the two halfs apart and lift the film out.

[choppert]

Thanks folks.

Can anyone recommend a good book?  I'll not be printing, just film developing.

I found this deep in the Amazon http://www.amazon.co.uk/Film-Developing-Cookbook-Vol-Darkroom/dp/0240802772/ref=pd_sim_b_2

Anyone heard of it?


Chops

[Francois]

As for books, check for Kodak publications. Very well written with tons of information.

My favorite is Kodak Professional Black-and-White Films  (publication F-5)

It contains so much information it cam make your head explode 
Everything is about negative development exclusively. Very technical but also very good (though a few readings are required to grasp everything).

As for film, most beginners start out with either Kodak D-76 or Ilford ID-11. They're almost the same formula and very cheap. Can be used full strength or diluted. The full strength stuff can also be re-used a lot (up to 10 times by adding 10% to the processing time each time the same solution is used).
For stop bath, get one with an indicator (Kodak indicator stop bath).
As for fixer, go for any good rapid fix and you'll be in business (the regular one takes too long to fix)

[moominsean]

this is a good beginner's book

http://www.amazon.com/Into-Your-Darkroom-Step/dp/0936262060/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1223680039&sr=8-1

filled with pictures and easy to follow. i got it to refresh my memory.

[al]

Here's a handy pdf guide, focuses on Ilford products obviously, but worth a read

http://www.ilfordphoto.com/Webfiles/200629163442455.pdf

[Pete_R]

As D-76 and ID-11 have been recommended here, I think it's worth pointing out to Chops that these are powder developers that require mixing to a stock solution before use (which also means you need something suitable to store the stock solution in). Although not difficult, it's an extra process to do and something more to consider, hence why I would recommend a liquid developer to anyone first starting out.

Chops, If you choose a powder developer, make up the stock solution first then dilute the stock solution according to the developing instructions. Don't try and split the pack of powder to make a smaller quantity of stock as you may not get the correct ratio of ingredients if you do.

[adso]

I don't know about ID-11, but D-76 can be used at full strength- just one bottle needed (it's how I have always used it). I know it can be used at 1:1, but when starting out, the fewest amount of bottles containing strange chemicals you have, the better.

That's also why I never use stop bath- just a water rinse, but that topic can become one that is debated with religious fervor- like Mac or PC.

[Hannah]

this is a good beginner's book

http://www.amazon.com/Into-Your-Darkroom-Step/dp/0936262060/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1223680039&sr=8-1

filled with pictures and easy to follow. i got it to refresh my memory.

Is this book for developing b&w or colour, or both?

[Andrea.]

I use Rodinal clone - APH09. 2/6d a gallon and last for around 143 years unmixed. Also, when I require something less sophisticated and finer grain I use Ilford's LC29 - which also lasts a long time un mixed.
Digitaltruth online  is a great place to get times for developing. Otherwise, slosh away

[sausage100uk]

i would recommend the new ilfosol 3, comes in a concentrate that from personal experience seems to last st least 6 month once opened. if possible, make yourself a drying cabinet ( i made mine out of an old locker) I can have dry negs in 2 hrs if I put it in front of a radiator. also try distilled water for the last rinse if you live in a hard water area, it  stopped my problem of spotty negs..

[moominsean]

this is a good beginner's book

http://www.amazon.com/Into-Your-Darkroom-Step/dp/0936262060/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1223680039&sr=8-1

filled with pictures and easy to follow. i got it to refresh my memory.

Is this book for developing b&w or colour, or both?

it's all the basics with step by step pictures, from developing your roll to printing, and all the basic supplies you need. it really is an easy book to follow. it's geared to bw, though i develop my own color sometimes and it's the exact same process...you just follow the directions that come with the developer concerning time and temp. color printing is a different beast. i worked for a newspaper a long time ago and had to do this and it requires a color enlarger that allows you to adjust the colors.
there are other books with more words, but it really is a good, basic manual with lots of pictures showing exactly what you need to do. for $6 used, it's worth it. it really simplifies things for you (even obvious stuff like 'turn out the lights').

i stopped using stop bath awhile ago...it kept eating holes into my emulsion with some more sensitive films. i just use a water stop. the main purpose is to extend the life of your fixer, but the stuff lasts a long time anyway.


and as for powder versus liquid, it's not any more difficult to mix a bag in a gallon of water than it is to mix a small amount in 12cc's. you can buy a storage bottle for like 4-7 bucks. you need one for fixer anyway. i dilute my d-76 1:1 and just pitch it after. so that's only two bottles...

and i'm pretty ghetto with my setup. i just hang my negs in the bathtub and run a fan on them. dry in about 10 minutes. and i squeegee with my fingers! there are all kinds of things you can do to make things 'better' or more 'ideal', but don't feel like you have to prepare for 3 weeks building and buying stuff. i spent maybe 70 bucks on supplies and chemicals initially ($20 was the thermometer, but you have to have one) and was developing the same day in my bathroom. you can always add and improve as time goes.

[Hannah]

this is a good beginner's book

http://www.amazon.com/Into-Your-Darkroom-Step/dp/0936262060/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1223680039&sr=8-1

filled with pictures and easy to follow. i got it to refresh my memory.

Is this book for developing b&w or colour, or both?

it's all the basics with step by step pictures, from developing your roll to printing, and all the basic supplies you need. it really is an easy book to follow. it's geared to bw, though i develop my own color sometimes and it's the exact same process...you just follow the directions that come with the developer concerning time and temp. color printing is a different beast. i worked for a newspaper a long time ago and had to do this and it requires a color enlarger that allows you to adjust the colors.
there are other books with more words, but it really is a good, basic manual with lots of pictures showing exactly what you need to do. for $6 used, it's worth it. it really simplifies things for you (even obvious stuff like 'turn out the lights').

i stopped using stop bath awhile ago...it kept eating holes into my emulsion with some more sensitive films. i just use a water stop. the main purpose is to extend the life of your fixer, but the stuff lasts a long time anyway.


and as for powder versus liquid, it's not any more difficult to mix a bag in a gallon of water than it is to mix a small amount in 12cc's. you can buy a storage bottle for like 4-7 bucks. you need one for fixer anyway. i dilute my d-76 1:1 and just pitch it after. so that's only two bottles...

and i'm pretty ghetto with my setup. i just hang my negs in the bathtub and run a fan on them. dry in about 10 minutes. and i squeegee with my fingers! there are all kinds of things you can do to make things 'better' or more 'ideal', but don't feel like you have to prepare for 3 weeks building and buying stuff. i spent maybe 70 bucks on supplies and chemicals initially ($20 was the thermometer, but you have to have one) and was developing the same day in my bathroom. you can always add and improve as time goes.

Thank you! I've just bought it from Amazon UK