Topic: Second weekend of 2021

[Kai-san]

Better start this before the clock passes twelve and we're into the Saturday!

Hasselblad 501CM / Zeiss Planar 80mm f2.8 / Kodak T-max 400 in Adox FX-39 II

[Bryan]

Testing my new Zeiss Ikon ICA TRONA 210/7 9x12 cm Plate Camera with Fomapan 100 developed in Beer.  These were both shot wide open, f4.5, on a tripod.  Didn't come out quite as sharp as I would have liked.  I'll need to stop it down and make longer exposures, or wait for the sun to come out.   

Abandoned Sitting Porch by Bryan Chernick, on Flickr

Twisted Tree and Rock Wall by Bryan Chernick, on Flickr

[MiguelCampano]

It's been a while since I've posted around these parts.

This is a shot from my Pentax 6x7 with the 105mm 2.4 during a casual walk. I used Fuji NPL160 expired in 1995. I accidentally developed it for 5 minutes in HC110 (Dil B) before realizing that I had poured B&W chems in the wrong tank. I flushed it out, washed the film, then developed it as normal using the C41 chems.


Still there. by Miguel Campano, on Flickr

Happy New Year, I hope everyone is doing alright!

[02Pilot]

First film I've developed since May.

[Francois]

This is a shot from my Pentax 6x7 with the 105mm 2.4 during a casual walk. I used Fuji NPL160 expired in 1995. I accidentally developed it for 5 minutes in HC110 (Dil B) before realizing that I had poured B&W chems in the wrong tank. I flushed it out, washed the film, then developed it as normal using the C41 chems.

It did give the image an intriguing camouflage pattern in the sky...

[Indofunk]

The wonderfully generous Adam Doe sent me a huge box of film, including the venerable FP3000B. What choice did I have but to load it up in my Polaroid 100 and shoot it?



(As you can see, I double exposed it to get the most out of a single pack )

[Francois]

Pretty good for some old stuff.

[Indofunk]

Also, I had a bunch of problems with this film that I don't want to blame on the film itself ... I want to blame it on the cold temperatures yesterday. It was just a touch below zero C, which I know is not "cold" for Canada and Scandinavia, but it's probably cold for dev chems A bunch of my shots had that zigzag pattern that you see on the negatives, except they showed up on the positives as well. And also the fuzzy borders that you see on this shot, and generally slight underexposure. Is it possible that the cold weather affected that? My normal MO for packfilm these days is to shoot them while I'm out and only peel them after I get home, maybe hours after shooting them. Fuji packfilm is generally good at automatically stopping the dev reaction when it's done, so I've never had problems with that. Side note: FP100C definitely turns out green when it devs in the cold 😁

[Bryan]

FP-3000b doesn't automatically stop development like FP-100c, you need to time the development. 

That’s pretty mart getting twice as many shots out of a pack.   I have a device that also doubles how many shots you can take.

The Splitter by Bryan Chernick, on Flickr

[Adam Doe]

Also, I had a bunch of problems with this film that I don't want to blame on the film itself ... I want to blame it on the cold temperatures yesterday. It was just a touch below zero C, which I know is not "cold" for Canada and Scandinavia, but it's probably cold for dev chems A bunch of my shots had that zigzag pattern that you see on the negatives, except they showed up on the positives as well. And also the fuzzy borders that you see on this shot, and generally slight underexposure. Is it possible that the cold weather affected that? My normal MO for packfilm these days is to shoot them while I'm out and only peel them after I get home, maybe hours after shooting them. Fuji packfilm is generally good at automatically stopping the dev reaction when it's done, so I've never had problems with that. Side note: FP100C definitely turns out green when it devs in the cold 😁

The chemicals are probably aging to the point where there will be some artifacts on the neg and print. Also, cold temperature will definitely have an effect perhaps both on spread and proper development. Really happy to see you shot some of it already!

[Kai-san]

Also, I had a bunch of problems with this film that I don't want to blame on the film itself ... I want to blame it on the cold temperatures yesterday. It was just a touch below zero C, which I know is not "cold" for Canada and Scandinavia, but it's probably cold for dev chems A bunch of my shots had that zigzag pattern that you see on the negatives, except they showed up on the positives as well. And also the fuzzy borders that you see on this shot, and generally slight underexposure. Is it possible that the cold weather affected that? My normal MO for packfilm these days is to shoot them while I'm out and only peel them after I get home, maybe hours after shooting them. Fuji packfilm is generally good at automatically stopping the dev reaction when it's done, so I've never had problems with that. Side note: FP100C definitely turns out green when it devs in the cold 😁

The chemicals are probably aging to the point where there will be some artifacts on the neg and print. Also, cold temperature will definitely have an effect perhaps both on spread and proper development. Really happy to see you shot some of it already!

When shooting in cold weather you need to put the film somewhere warm straight after you pull it from the camera. I put mine inside my jacket so it's kept warm while developing. In my experience the Fuji films ages better than the Polaroid ones. I still shoot FP3000B from 2008 and they are mostly OK.

[Indofunk]

I have the cold clip that came with the camera (also courtesy of Adam!!) but I chose not to use it to see how things would turn out. And I didn't know that 3000b doesn't stop like 100C! I'll pay more attention to that. That could explain why the edges are fuzzy (= overdeveloped?)

[Adam Doe]

I was also under the impression that all of the Fuji pack films were self terminating.

[Kai-san]

They should be self terminating, I have not experienced any problems. The amount of developer gel should be just enough to develop the picture.

[Francois]

With pretty much any instant film, I tend to put them in a warm pocket as soon as they're out of the camera.
So far, I've never had the pod become too thick because of the cold... but I must say taking pictures in temperatures that would render the pod solid is not my best choice when it comes to going out.

[Bryan]

With FP-3000b I don’t think you get a lot of over development if you go longer than the recommended time but you can get other problems.  The developer can dry and stick to the print and you can get some mottling.