Filmwasters
Which Board? => Main Forum => Topic started by: sapata on June 14, 2011, 08:04:46 PM
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I know some people here has been doing this already, but this is the first time I left my lightmeter at home and decided to do a test using the sunny 16 rule http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sunny_16_rule (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sunny_16_rule).
I'm actually quite impressed of how it worked... will use again for sure!
Salex 6x4.5 Camera - Fuji Across - Rodinal stand development
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Good work. I often use sunny 16 but struggle in overcast conditions. Nice pics.
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yeah these are good, nice going! :)
I use sunny 16 myself and think it's easy with sunny, partly overcast and light overcast (easy with hard, soft and no shadows). I struggle with getting exposures right for shades and indoors but I try to get better :)
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Just get an Expomat calculator (free).
I use one quite often and it works fine for a piece of cardboard :)
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I think this is a good starting point and we can only improve from there, even with the worst light conditions. I guess the more we use the more we understand the rule and obviously get better.
Just get an Expomat calculator (free).
I use one quite often and it works fine for a piece of cardboard :)
I'll have a look at that as well Francois... in the mean time I have a scan from the inside picture guide of the Kodacolor Gold box uploaded in my mobile phone.
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I seem to remember there was an app for the iPhone that turned it into a light meter...
This is the ExpoMat link
http://expomat.tripod.com/ (http://expomat.tripod.com/)
And the Ambertation Lightmeter for iPod
http://www.ambertation.de/en/lightmeter (http://www.ambertation.de/en/lightmeter)
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That Salex looks pretty good!
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I purchased the ambertation lightmeter for the iphone and it works well, but is quite a slow process... so I do not use it much, well not at all, but I guess that in an emergency situation it will come handy. I mostly always use the same film, Kodak Tmax 400, and I know that in bright days is about 1/500 f.8, so from that starting point I made my own calculations... I also play a lot with the lightmeter trying to guess what is the correct exposure... few more years and I will be pretty good at :D
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I purchased the ambertation lightmeter for the iphone and it works well, but is quite a slow process... so I do not use it much, well not at all, but I guess that in an emergency situation it will come handy.
Good thing to know. I was expecting it to be somewhat better than this...
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You all amaze me! I cant live without a light meter, except when Im shooting the Holga.
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i have been meaning to run a roll of film using the Sunny 16 Rule,
seems simple enough, just a matter of getting used to your setup
and film and how it reacts to the settings.
its hard to leave the meter in the bag or at home
next roll im trying the rule for sure, it would be nice to shoot without
the meter!
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I cant live without a light meter, except when Im shooting the Holga.
That was me until two days ago... ;)
i have been meaning to run a roll of film using the Sunny 16 Rule,
seems simple enough, just a matter of getting used to your setup
and film and how it reacts to the settings.
its hard to leave the meter in the bag or at home
next roll im trying the rule for sure, it would be nice to shoot without
the meter!
You should definitely try! I had been meaning to do that for so long and I'm glad I finally tried.
I reckon the Iphone ap wouldn't really be useful for me since I've already got a lightmeter. The other reason I want to get used to the rule is because I'd like to have more freedom when photographing and just concentrate on my shots.
What I do have in my phone is this graphic I found on the web which I will memorize. In fact, if anyone has the inside signs of the Kodak Gold box I'd really apreciatte a hi-res scan... I'll make a Tshirt (inspired by Francois "Smena" camera T shirt) :D
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i will try this rule next time I'm out shooting ;)
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What I do have in my phone is this graphic I found on the web which I will memorize. In fact, if anyone has the inside signs of the Kodak Gold box I'd really apreciatte a hi-res scan... I'll make a Tshirt (inspired by Francois "Smena" camera T shirt) :D
Well, if you need a better one, just let me know :)
This one is from a Gold 200 box
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Thank you so much Francois! The size is great... funny it has more squares than the 100 ISO :)
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funny it has more squares than the 100 ISO :)
Kodak probably think it's more versatile... just imagine the graph inside the Gold 400 boxes ;D
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Let me guess. Your gonna print this upside down on a shirt so you can reference it easier? ;D
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How on earth I didn't think about that before!!
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Fred Parker system here- Ultimate Exposure Computer http://goo.gl/tN8E (http://goo.gl/tN8E)
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I lost my Sekonic and was relying on sunny 16 for the past couple of months. For "normal" ISO film I usually dont need a meter, but for complex scenes and higher speed films I often get confused doing too much math. That's why I found this for approx~ $30.
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2676/5831050129_8bf3eb1182_m.jpg)
I also have an old meter for odd old cameras with 1/3, 1/5, 1/10, 1/25, etc shutter speeds.
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What I do have in my phone is this graphic I found on the web which I will memorize. In fact, if anyone has the inside signs of the Kodak Gold box I'd really apreciatte a hi-res scan... I'll make a Tshirt (inspired by Francois "Smena" camera T shirt) Cheesy
Sapata - that's a great idea, if you don't mind me stealing it I might do that as well?
Nigel
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The only light meter I used was this one: http://www.lungov.com/wagner/c/074c.html (http://www.lungov.com/wagner/c/074c.html)
Only because it's sleek and cool and doesn't need batteries ;)
Actually, since I started shooting I havent used anything except an extinction meter for a few shots, otherwise I go by "Sunny 16". If I'm unsure, I'll shoot another frame plus or minus a stop.
One thing I tend to have trouble with is indoor light and snow scenes at night (where I underestimate the available light), but I'm still practicing!
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What I do have in my phone is this graphic I found on the web which I will memorize. In fact, if anyone has the inside signs of the Kodak Gold box I'd really apreciatte a hi-res scan... I'll make a Tshirt (inspired by Francois "Smena" camera T shirt) Cheesy
Sapata - that's a great idea, if you don't mind me stealing it I might do that as well?
Nigel
That's cool Nigel... ;) and Francois scan is just what you need!
The only light meter I used was this one: http://www.lungov.com/wagner/c/074c.html (http://www.lungov.com/wagner/c/074c.html)
Only because it's sleek and cool and doesn't need batteries ;)
Actually, since I started shooting I havent used anything except an extinction meter for a few shots, otherwise I go by "Sunny 16". If I'm unsure, I'll shoot another frame plus or minus a stop.
One thing I tend to have trouble with is indoor light and snow scenes at night (where I underestimate the available light), but I'm still practicing!
That's a quite unusual lightmeter ! I had never heard about before...
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I must admit the shape is quite different from what we're used to seeing in extinction meters.
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For what seems like an eternity, I've had in my camera bag a sheet of difficult exposure situations that I compiled from multiple sources (including Kodak).
The list can come in really handy for setting starting exposure points. You can print two on a sheet of paper, cut them out, fold them in half and have them laminated at Staples.
Since my list was in French, I made you an English version :)
The list is for 400 ISO film.
Enjoy!
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Just following a link from the tripman site and found this.
http://www.redbubble.com/people/rool/t-shirts/4199260-sunny-16-rule-special-edition (http://www.redbubble.com/people/rool/t-shirts/4199260-sunny-16-rule-special-edition)
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and this
http://www.redbubble.com/people/rool/t-shirts/3114482-sunny-16-rule-black-inverted (http://www.redbubble.com/people/rool/t-shirts/3114482-sunny-16-rule-black-inverted)
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Let me guess. Your gonna print this upside down on a shirt so you can reference it easier? ;D
and this
http://www.redbubble.com/people/rool/t-shirts/3114482-sunny-16-rule-black-inverted (http://www.redbubble.com/people/rool/t-shirts/3114482-sunny-16-rule-black-inverted)
Ha!
done already... :D
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For what seems like an eternity, I've had in my camera bag a sheet of difficult exposure situations that I compiled from multiple sources (including Kodak).
I have something similar, interestingly it includes settings for exposures ON the moon, not here on earth illuminated by the moon. 1/125 @ f11 using 40 - 64 ASA film apparently!
Includes the note that "Subjects would be details of the Moon's surface, people etc." People? Not sure when it was produced.
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For what seems like an eternity, I've had in my camera bag a sheet of difficult exposure situations that I compiled from multiple sources (including Kodak).
Burning buildings? :o
Isn't that a tad macabre? ;D
Chops
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Well... most of it was from Kodak.
But now you have 50% of Weegee's themes listed there :)
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Found this the other day and I think It's pretty accurate. I reduced some speeds and closed more the diaphragm as now I tend to shoot with reduced apertures.
ISO400 - Outside:
1/250 - f/11 - bright overcast or regular day
1/125 - f/11 - overcast (indistinct shadow)
1/125 - f/8 - heavy overcast (no shadow)
1/125 - f/8 - subject is in shade (light shadow)
1/60 - f/8 – sunset (heavy shadow)
ISO 400 - Inside:
1/60 - f/4 - bright fluorescent light
1/60 - f/4 - subject in window light
1/30 - f/2.8 - subject in brightly lit room (here I disagree, I would shoot 30/4, oook, is just one more step)
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Hey guys I found these exposure cards for Kodak film in the case to a Signet 80 I got at a garage sale a week back. Thought you might find them interesting if not extremely useful ::)
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Pretty sweet... too bad they don't print these anymore...
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This is awesome!
We're gathering a great amount of exposure charts!
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These are great I love the graphics, this could be the beginning of some sort of collection.
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These are great I love the graphics, this could be the beginning of some sort of collection.
I was just thinking the same thing myself :D I'll have to rummage through my stuff to see if I can contribute with anything. I think I have atleast a solaris box lieing around.
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Probably the least useful diagram so far. Era 100 film.
Off-topic: What I don't understand is why with all the instructions in Chinese (fair enough it's a Chinese film), the list numbers 1., 2., 3. etc are European? Anyone?
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Probably the least useful diagram so far. Era 100 film.
Off-topic: What I don't understand is why with all the instructions in Chinese (fair enough it's a Chinese film), the list numbers 1., 2., 3. etc are European? Anyone?
This is great Nigel!
I found funny the little caracters on the drawings... is the last one holding an umbrella?
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This is my version of the Gakken Japanese Stereo Pinhole chart after my friend translated to me...
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This is great Nigel!
I found funny the little caracters on the drawings... is the last one holding an umbrella?
Yes, at first I thought it was a cloud with a stick coming out of it, but I think you're right it's an umbrella!
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Here is one I got from an expired roll of phototec400 . . .
(http://www.alanlambephotography.com/bucket02/phototec400chart.jpg)
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hmm... does Phototec has anything to do with Fuji? ::)
Looks exactly the same as the Provia posted here...
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This is great Nigel!
I found funny the little caracters on the drawings... is the last one holding an umbrella?
Yes, at first I thought it was a cloud with a stick coming out of it, but I think you're right it's an umbrella!
Could also have been a guy getting hit by lightning... then again, maybe not... :D
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dont think so.
"For Technical Support Contact:
Paterson Group International . . ."
on the box it goes on to say for developer use
Phototec Unitol . . .
or
Paterson Aculux II, FX-39 . . .
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Just though I'd add this one as well... first time i've ever seen on the film's backpaper.
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Ha - a coincidence I was just pulling out Verichrome pan backing papers for 127 so I could "reload" them with new film and thought "hey I should scan these instructions on them".
Now I don't have to!
I have a few exposure guides from the 1950s I'll have to dig out.
I use Sunny 16 pretty much exclusively. f16 for open sunlight. f8 for overcast days. f5.6 for open shade or rainy days. etc. For some reason I don't use f11 :-X I tend to look at the sky to judge overall conditions, then look the shadows to judge subject conditions. I've even shot a few rolls of slides this way and they came out fine.
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Ha - a coincidence I was just pulling out Verichrome pan backing papers for 127 so I could "reload" them with new film and thought "hey I should scan these instructions on them".
Now I don't have to!
I have a few exposure guides from the 1950s I'll have to dig out.
I use Sunny 16 pretty much exclusively. f16 for open sunlight. f8 for overcast days. f5.6 for open shade or rainy days. etc. For some reason I don't use f11 :-X I tend to look at the sky to judge overall conditions, then look the shadows to judge subject conditions. I've even shot a few rolls of slides this way and they came out fine.
I had problems with a lot of pictures underexposed, I guess it wasn't THAT sunny to use f16 >:(
Here's an example... straight out of the scanner (B&W scanned as colour neg), the histogram is almost empty of information and they're all on the very left of the chart.
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It may not have been very sunny. I usually think of sunny 16 being based off of the sun at noon. Obviously in the morning and in the evening, even if the sun is visible in a clear sky - there's going to be less light falling on things. That may have been the case with you?
This was shot at 9AM: and I used f5.6 even though the sky was clear and the sun was visible
(http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6192/6128040436_9c18bd2f80_z.jpg)
Anyway here's some more old guides:
(http://powflip.com/data/photographs/exguide1.jpg)
Kodachrome (1950s I think)
(http://powflip.com/data/photographs/exguide2.jpg)
Ansco and Kodak films, circa 1952
(http://powflip.com/data/photographs/exguide3.jpg)
Cee-Ay 35 booklet, 1949.
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(http://powflip.com/data/photographs/exguide1.jpg)
Kodachrome (1950s I think)
HA!
Like the sun "smiling" at the first one :D ...opposite to the angry snowman :P
Here is one I got from an expired roll of phototec400 . . .
(http://www.alanlambephotography.com/bucket02/phototec400chart.jpg)
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I have a Gossen Pilot II that I've had since the dawn of time, and a Weston 853 that my wife found for $1. I checked the accuracy of the Weston and it's fine, but I still find it faster and easier (and, let's be honest, more fun) to sunny/16 with my meterless and dead-batteried. Sometimes I check my guess with the meter after the fact, sometimes I "bracket" by taking a sunny/16 and a metered shot to compare the two later.
Most fun is to keep a meter handy so when I see a scene that makes me question my sunny/16 guess, I can meter it, get that feedback, and use that to hone future guesses. Lately it's been very helpful to remind me that there is no more "high noon" at these latitudes and it's "sunny/11" until the snow flies.
Plus, with some scenes, sometimes it just makes it easy. I'll say, oh yeah, duh, that thing over there is the important exposure, and all the rest will fall into place:
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2671/3987324436_831edd4b48.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/27031365@N02/3987324436/)
Independence Mine (http://www.flickr.com/photos/27031365@N02/3987324436/#) by knapjack (http://www.flickr.com/people/27031365@N02/), on Flickr
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In preparation for heading out with my Fed 2 I've been trying to hone my Sunny 16 technique and it had me wondering, if I'm in doubt, I assume it's best to err on the side of underexposure rather than overexposure would you agree? ??? If it matters I'm thinking of portraits.
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In preparation for heading out with my Fed 2 I've been trying to hone my Sunny 16 technique and it had me wondering, if I'm in doubt, I assume it's best to err on the side of underexposure rather than overexposure would you agree? ??? If it matters I'm thinking of portraits.
More a question of negative film or trannie. I'd always incline towards overexposing neg film, especially if scanning.
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depends on the degree of over/underexposure. i prefer to slightly underexpose ektar for better tones. with color film, it seems to be easier to adjust for underexposure as over is usually missing detail in the bright areas. i tend to start at 250 and f16 in sunlight. a lot of it specific to format...i overexpose polaroid iduv and 669.
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I guess it depends a lot on the look you're going for and whether it's color of B&W.
In color negatives, underexposure will make the tones muddy. Overexposures will bring colors that are more pastel or pop depending by how much you overexpose.
On B&W, the film has a lot more latitude so this is a bit less of an issue.
Don't forget the classic rule to expose for the shadows and develop for the highlights.
If film doesn't record shadow detail, you can't recreate it. On the other hand, highlights tend to already contain less information. I would be tempted to say that, unless the subject calls for blocked shadows, overexposure is a lesser evil.
But if you use a modern emulsion like T-Max, one stop under is hardly noticeable.
But for slide film, it's a whole different story. And instant film is a whole other ballpark.
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My experience with B&W 100 ISO is, whenever I'm using the sunny 16 rule (which it's been a lot lately) I tend to get underexposured negatives (against my wishes), and that it's been a pain to get decent scans. Maybe is because is too much underexposured... I don't know.
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This weekend I've been privileged to see some very old photograps from the National Maritime Museum's collections - including wet collodion photographs from the 1854 expedition to Greenland to discover what happened to Franklin's expedition to find the North-West Passage. Some of these photographs are beautifully exposed - higlights and shadow detail in arctic landscapes: it occured to me that perhaps all the sophistication of multi-mode metering, or spot-metering, has somehow lost the track. What I'd like to know is how photographers before, say, 1950, knew what exposure was right: they clearly did.
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David - I think the answer lies in the amount of silver in early emulsions giving a much greater lattitude, and the widespread use of compensating developers like pyrogallol.
Mauricio - I find sunny 16 always underexposes film in uk light ... I always opt for a sunny 11 instead.
Nigel - if b&w, always overexpose if in doubt. overexposed Highlights can be tamed in development but unde exposed shadows will never be recovered.
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Mauricio - I find sunny 16 always underexposes film in uk light ... I always opt for a sunny 11 instead.
I thought about that as well Leon, but the last time I was in Brazil I had similar results... it's either me or I'm under developing my films?
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Could be that. It could also be a camera thing. Shutters are not always precise (unless you have a Nikon F4-F5-F6).
But it's true that the rule of Sunny/16, while pretty reasonable, doesn't apply everywhere. I know people who live in the mountains have to use sunny/22. I guess it just goes to show how much you have to adjust.
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also depends on the developer you are using - if you have a speed reduction, then your sunny 16 would have to take this into consideration ... developers like Perceptol will lose you up to a whole stop in film speed!
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Could be that. It could also be a camera thing. Shutters are not always precise (unless you have a Nikon F4-F5-F6).
It's true... I guess bracketing needs to be considered.
But it's true that the rule of Sunny/16, while pretty reasonable, doesn't apply everywhere. I know people who live in the mountains have to use sunny/22. I guess it just goes to show how much you have to adjust.
For sure... in fact the first 2 pics on this post were taken in London and they seems to be underexposured...
also depends on the developer you are using - if you have a speed reduction, then your sunny 16 would have to take this into consideration ... developers like Perceptol will lose you up to a whole stop in film speed!
I always use Rodinal Leon... What's speed reduction?
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For sure... in fact the first 2 pics on this post were taken in London and they seems to be underexposured...
I live in London, and I've been trying to learn Sunny 16 recently, and everything seems to come out underexposed. Basically I have to use the Sunny 11 rule. I don't think you people in other parts of the world have the same sun we do here.
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Thanks guys, I think the take away from that is my sunny 16 estimation is never going to be accurate enough to over or underexpose, I think I'll just go with what seems right!
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For sure... in fact the first 2 pics on this post were taken in London and they seems to be underexposured...
I live in London, and I've been trying to learn Sunny 16 recently, and everything seems to come out underexposed. Basically I have to use the Sunny 11 rule. I don't think you people in other parts of the world have the same sun we do here.
Considering what you Londoners pump into your atmosphere :o I think sunny8 may get you closer; whilst here in the sunny :-\ midlands I find that sunny11 is usually appropriate.
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Good question Mauricio ... But only you can answer it. All kinds of things will affect the speed - you agitation technique, your water supply, developer dilution, temperature, film age etc etc etc.
Sounds like you might want to slow it down a bit though.
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Speed reduction is often present with ultra fine grain developers.
Lets say you take some t-max 100. If you process it in standard developers, it's speed is ISO 100. But if you process it in Microdol-X, the speed drops down to ISO 50.
T-Max 400 does the same thing even in HC-110 dil.B where its speed is ISO 320. Only ISO 200 when done in Microdol-X.
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Thought I add another chart to the collection... a bit strange they're asking to select 1/500 with 200ISO...
Quite like the lady drinking cocktail on F11 8)
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Here's on from the sunny 1970's– a Kodacolor II Note free Leica 'Barnack' cutting guide
(http://www.pbase.com/mark_antony/image/143870865.jpg)
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Just reviving an old topic to keep things clean and organized.
I was just going through an old 1950's photo book that is loaded with weird and esoteric looking exposure calculation methods and computers.
This is one of the strange ones. I don't know how well it works but it sure looks interesting. It's the first time I stumble on a computer that takes into account the month of the year in its calculations!
Here's the quick scan I made (sorry for not straightening it).
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I can't check right now, but I think i've got something similar on a metal plate on the back of a camera... and I think it's my Rolleiflex!
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That's a clever calculator...but I think it was made for the Northern Hemisphere.
The sun angle is different at different times of the year but in June when sunlight is stronger north of the equator, it's weaker on the southern half of the world....
People near the equator would have different values too....
Sorry, it's that astro-geek coming out of me.... ;D
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They've turned out pretty well!
And what a colourful set of Sunny 16 resources!
And it's reminded me of how I howled with laughter, having the idea of "learning to meter light with my eyes . . .", wondering if I could do it over the course of a year, and joining this group and seeing Alan has this as his signature line...what a wonderful group :D
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Sorry, it's that astro-geek coming out of me.... ;D
In the southern hemisphere, you'd have to reverse the list. And between both tropics, having an adjustment for the months would be pretty useless...
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Sorry, it's that astro-geek coming out of me.... ;D
In the southern hemisphere, you'd have to reverse the list. And between both tropics, having an adjustment for the months would be pretty useless...
But you could adjust for the heat and the humidity. ;)
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Don't get me going on heat (or the lack of it). When I woke up at 5 this morning, the outside thermometer was peaking at around -40°C. Took me about an hour to stop shivering just from seeing this!
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Fred Parker system here- Ultimate Exposure Computer http://goo.gl/tN8E (http://goo.gl/tN8E)
I always vow to commit this chart to memory every year. Never have, but I keep it folded up in my camera bag and it has come in VERY handy if the batteries die in my light meter.
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Oh, and let's not forget the "Looney 11 Rule": http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Looney_11_rule (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Looney_11_rule)
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Oh, and let's not forget the "Looney 11 Rule": http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Looney_11_rule (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Looney_11_rule)
That Looney rule seems Looney. It seems like it would be something like ISO100 at f/11 for 100 seconds for a subject lit by the full moon.
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That Looney rule seems Looney. It seems like it would be something like ISO100 at f/11 for 100 seconds for a subject lit by the full moon.
Jack - I read it as 1/100 sec at f11 - which seems too short to me! That is the sunny 11 rule that I use for daylight here in UK. No way that would work at night.
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I wonder if this is for photos OF the moon - it would make sense then - but not for photos of things in thee light of the moon. We need our resident astro-brain to chip in here.
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Leon, I think you're right. No sign of Becky yet, but I did find this:
http://www.astropix.com/HTML/I_ASTROP/TRIPOD/TRIPOD4.HTM (http://www.astropix.com/HTML/I_ASTROP/TRIPOD/TRIPOD4.HTM)
Also, I broke out my sunny/16 cheat sheet, and a subject lit by the full moon (EV -3) would be something like f/16 @ 1600/ISO minutes. :)
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I just checked my old Kodak chart and a moonlit landscape would be 8 seconds at f/2 on 400 ISO film.
A moonlit scene would be 3 minutes at f/2.8 on 400 ISO...
I do have something a bit more cooky than that in my books... I'll go hunt for it.
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OK, I found it!
How to use your camera to as a fadeout stop exposure calculator.
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(http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z245/americanvictory/iPad%20pictures/th_f3adc64804871a9232051f0368c07a7e.jpg) (http://s195.photobucket.com/albums/z245/americanvictory/iPad%20pictures/?action=view¤t=f3adc64804871a9232051f0368c07a7e.jpg) this is from my Kodak Pony II I has anybody used one of these?
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One thing's for sure, you have to give them credit for their colour work :)
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(http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z245/americanvictory/iPad%20pictures/th_f3adc64804871a9232051f0368c07a7e.jpg) (http://s195.photobucket.com/albums/z245/americanvictory/iPad%20pictures/?action=view¤t=f3adc64804871a9232051f0368c07a7e.jpg) this is from my Kodak Pony II I has anybody used one of these?
I just found one of these cameras for $4.00 and it included all these little cards in pristine condition!
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I just found this on Make.
Not an exposure chart in itself but still pretty cool.
(http://makezineblog.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/manual-photography-cheat-sheet.jpg?w=553&h=828)
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I just found this on Make.
Not an exposure chart in itself but still pretty cool.
(http://makezineblog.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/manual-photography-cheat-sheet.jpg?w=553&h=828)
Wow... so many colours!
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What I find funny is how Canons and Nikons operate in reverse on just about everything!
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I've never noticed that! I've always used Canon and to me increase exposure means "right" on the dial ! I would be very confused with a Nikon...
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My experience with B&W 100 ISO is, whenever I'm using the sunny 16 rule (which it's been a lot lately) I tend to get underexposured negatives (against my wishes), and that it's been a pain to get decent scans. Maybe is because is too much underexposured... I don't know.
There is/was a saying in German:
"Wenn Sonne lacht Blende 8" - when the sun laughs use F 8.
I would assume this is from the days when ASA100 was a fast film in general use. Can't remember if I tried this at all but might be the answer to your issue above.
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I just found this on Make.
Not an exposure chart in itself but still pretty cool.
(http://makezineblog.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/manual-photography-cheat-sheet.jpg?w=553&h=828)
Now THAT would make a nice T-shirt graphic! 8)
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or a darkroom/workspace poster.
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I might try and blow it up using the Blow-up plugin...
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Just reviving a really old thread to show you a "new" guide I found!
It's from the Film's Not Dead site and can be a great way to have the kids help out ;D
Here's the fold-up exposure meter.
(http://www.filmsnotdead.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/Films-not-Dead-Pop-up-Meter.jpg)
And the full instructions
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http://www.redbubble.com/people/rool/t-shirts/3114482-sunny-16-rule-black-inverted (http://www.redbubble.com/people/rool/t-shirts/3114482-sunny-16-rule-black-inverted)
Ha!
done already... :D
I have that! It's my favorite stupid photography shirt.