Filmwasters
Which Board? => Main Forum => Topic started by: Faintandfuzzy on October 14, 2019, 08:48:52 PM
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Announced on Twitter. DPReview reported as well...
https://www.dpreview.com/news/2316543157/ilford-photo-teases-new-film-release-in-multiple-formats (https://www.dpreview.com/news/2316543157/ilford-photo-teases-new-film-release-in-multiple-formats)
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There's a lot of red in that ad, I'm hoping for infrared film.
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Strangely, I'm hoping they stole an idea I sent them a few years ago for a color film that used a technology similar to the one in the Lumière Autochrome to produce color images in B&W chemistry, except without the colored potato flakes used in the original ;D
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I wish they would make a paper specifically for paper negatives. And the correct battery powered LED safelight to handle it in the darkroom.
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I wish they would make a paper specifically for paper negatives. And the correct battery powered LED safelight to handle it in the darkroom.
Battery powered safelights are the easiest and cheapest to build.
I made one a few years ago to handle lith film.i think I made a contraption article about it.
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I wish they would make a paper specifically for paper negatives. And the correct battery powered LED safelight to handle it in the darkroom.
Battery powered safelights are the easiest and cheapest to build.
I made one a few years ago to handle lith film.i think I made a contraption article about it.
The reason I wanted them to make the safelight is that they know what wavelengths the emulsion is sensitive to. A red LED string light I used was safe with Ilford MG4 but immediately fogged a grade 2 Oriental paper. I wish these paper makers would define specifically what wavelengths are safe for normal distance and time in the darkroom, and that safe light makers would list what papers they are safe for. Do this through actual tests so that you can know for instance that at 4 feet and 10 minutes you have assurance that the paper will not be fogged.
One of the advantages of paper as a negative is that, besides being cheap, you can handle it under safelight.
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They do publish the sensitivity data according to wavelength.
From experience, the least finicky product is B&W photo paper. Then comes a host of other stuff.
I used a 660 nanometer LED on mine and it works a treat.
Here's the article I wrote on the subject http://www.filmwasters.com/forum/index.php?topic=9563.0 (http://www.filmwasters.com/forum/index.php?topic=9563.0)
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Yep, read that, thanks Francois. Not beyond my skills so I should give it a try. I found with the Oriental paper a dark brown beer bottle would work as a safelight filter. I taped a LED flashlight to one side with black masking tape and that worked fine for the Oriental grade 2 paper.
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That could just be a case of making things dark enough not to register much on the paper. A bit like that dark green safelights.
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Harman (the company behind Ilford) is now launching a "reusable" camera:
https://kosmofoto.com/2019/10/harman-launches-reloadable-kentmere-camera/ (https://kosmofoto.com/2019/10/harman-launches-reloadable-kentmere-camera/)
It comes with two films, does that mean you can only use it twice? :o
It thought all my cameras were reusable, does this mean I now have to label them multi-usable? Confusing times..........
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https://www.ilfordphoto.com/new-products-announced-products-including-5th-generation-ilford-multigrade-rc-paper-ilford-ortho-film-135-120-formats/ (https://www.ilfordphoto.com/new-products-announced-products-including-5th-generation-ilford-multigrade-rc-paper-ilford-ortho-film-135-120-formats/)
Now announced!
The new film is Ortho Plus in 35mm and 120 formats, and the paper is Multigrade RC Deluxe, the 5th gen Multigrade paper.
I've shot a few Ortho films before, so I'll probably be getting some of that to try.
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Wouldn't have been top of my list.
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The ortho films that have been available lately are all low speed, typically 25 ISO. With 80 ISO this one will be far more usable for hand held shooting. I would like to try it, but Ilford's datasheet only gives developing times for their own chemicals. I'm not very keen on stocking one more developer for this film only, so I guess I shall have to do some experimenting.
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I will probably try the Ortho film but I'm not totally sold on why I should shoot this over Pan film. Any Ortho film that I have shot in the past was very slow so that is a bonus. Any info on what, if any, filters should be used with it?
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I will probably try the Ortho film but I'm not totally sold on why I should shoot this over Pan film. Any Ortho film that I have shot in the past was very slow so that is a bonus. Any info on what, if any, filters should be used with it?
Light yellow as I recall. The aim was to get some contrast in the sky to show clouds. But if you want contrast in the clouds, shoot a pan film with an orange filter. I really don't see the point of shooting ortho film for normal scenes.
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Any info on what, if any, filters should be used with it?
Just don't use a red filter ;)
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Any info on what, if any, filters should be used with it?
Just don't use a red filter ;)
;D
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Wow, I'm excited about this. I've used Ortho Plus in 4x5 and liked it a lot. It's definitely not flattering in the traditional sense for portraits but I think it can render a lot of character because of that
(https://imageproxy.viewbook.com/4672/18bb16b36f9d00232430501ffb84aac8_hd.jpg?fit=max&h=1280&w=600)
It's like wet plate collodion in that way. I found it, not low contrast exactly but to be loaded with mid-tones, very rich in the grays, if that makes sense.
(https://imageproxy.viewbook.com/4672/399b5a4cb8c8c09ac7927f85a1a5a632_hd.jpg?fit=max&h=1280&w=600)
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The ortho films that have been available lately are all low speed, typically 25 ISO. With 80 ISO this one will be far more usable for hand held shooting. I would like to try it, but Ilford's datasheet only gives developing times for their own chemicals. I'm not very keen on stocking one more developer for this film only, so I guess I shall have to do some experimenting.
I used HC-110 dil B for the sheet film Ortho Plus. I can't remember the time exactly but I think it was something normal like 6 minutes.
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More info on the new stuff
http://emulsive.org/articles/news/new-from-ilford-films-multigrade-papers-camera-and-development-kit-qa-tests-samples-inside (http://emulsive.org/articles/news/new-from-ilford-films-multigrade-papers-camera-and-development-kit-qa-tests-samples-inside)
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And I used some Arista Ortho litho in hc110 Dil.f to get full tones at so 3...
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The ortho films that have been available lately are all low speed, typically 25 ISO. With 80 ISO this one will be far more usable for hand held shooting. I would like to try it, but Ilford's datasheet only gives developing times for their own chemicals. I'm not very keen on stocking one more developer for this film only, so I guess I shall have to do some experimenting.
I used HC-110 dil B for the sheet film Ortho Plus. I can't remember the time exactly but I think it was something normal like 6 minutes.
That's a good starting point. I've noticed that several panchromatic films around 100 ISO use the dilution B at 6 minutes. I will try dilution H at 10 minutes and see how that turns out. AG Photographic charges £8.69 for 36 exp., not exactly cheap. Would be nice if Ilford could offer it on 100ft rolls.
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I can't remember but there's a multiplier for dilution H.
I tried it once on a roll and contrast was pretty low. Though it could have been something else that went wrong.
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The general recommendation for dilution H is to double the time used for dilution B. If you check the Massive Dev Chart they usually state shorter development times than this rule. I'm fully aware that the Massive Dev Chart is not always seen as the Gospel of truth, but for the film types I have tried it looks ok. I have not noticed any reduction in contrast, I suppose that might vary with different films. Dilution H is supposed to give higher acutance, i.e. "a measure of the sharpness with which a film can reproduce the edge of an object".
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I haven't looked into it, but all I know is that it needed more than a grade 2 to look good and at the time I didn't have a filter pack for my 4x5 enlarger (the negative was exposed in a 6x9 box, so I had to jury-rig a film holder for it).