Filmwasters
Which Board? => Main Forum => : Indofunk September 03, 2017, 05:50:40 PM
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I had some old Kodalith that a Filmwaster (Adam? James?) gave me, and I shot it yesterday at ISO 10 as suggested on the laser printed label ("rolled by labeauratoire"). So now I have to figure out how to develop it in my developer of choice, HC110. I did a little sleuthing on this forum and found that James stand-develops in Caffenol (http://www.filmwasters.com/forum/index.php?topic=6726.msg93360#msg93360) and/or Adenol (http://www.filmwasters.com/forum/index.php?topic=7218.msg92387#msg92387), Ralph develops in Rodinal 1+100 for 10 min (http://www.filmwasters.com/forum/index.php?topic=8041.msg107309#msg107309), Peter uses Caffenol as well (http://www.filmwasters.com/forum/index.php?topic=8221.msg109489#msg109489) (but did not specify dev time), Gary stand develops in Rodinal (http://www.filmwasters.com/forum/index.php?topic=6588.msg82454#msg82454), and SLVR seems to stand develop in Rodinal 1+200 (http://www.filmwasters.com/forum/index.php?topic=6750.msg85297#msg85297). Massive dev only has a time for D76, which is double the time it gives for Tri-X in D76.
So basically, it looks like everyone stand develops, with the outliers being Massive Dev which suggests killing it for twice the time as Tri-X, and Ralph, who uses the same concentration of Rodinal that everyone else stand develops in for an hour, but only develops for 10 minutes. I guess I answered my own question by writing it all out. Time to stand develop my Kodalith in HC110 1:100 for 1.5hrs! ;D
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Hold on, let me check if I have something...
In the Kodak literature, for Kodalith Ortho type 3 (a.k.a. Ektagraphic HC slide film)... they say absolutely nothing apart from ID-11 and Kodalith... grr >:(
Time for something way older...
Kodalith again...
Hold on, I have some old Shutterbug articles that I clipped and there is one of lith film...
I'll get back here
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I've been looking everywhere and all I can find is related to lith dev.
The article I was thinking about was using some Tech Pan... not exactly the same...
I went to APUG (yes, it does take dedication ;) ) and found this
It will develop in practically any developer. Dektol, while not as contrasty as the various halftone developers, is still mighty contrasty. In my experience, if you really want a nice range of continuous tone using a commonly available developer, it is best to treat this just like a piece of standard film. This means using a *film* developer *one shot*, and almost certainly at a notably higher dilution than you would use for regular film. Before I discovered David Soemarko's remarkable LC-1 homebrew formula, I used HC-110 (and then Ilford HC once I switched) at a 1:79 dilution, as recommended by Ilford on the data sheet for HC. I would often tweak the dilution a bit with a little more syrup or a little more water as needed to change contrast, but even then it was a bit rough.
I also found this flickr thread
https://www.flickr.com/groups/1334038@N23/discuss/72157623227815537/ (https://www.flickr.com/groups/1334038@N23/discuss/72157623227815537/)
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Well, I stand developed it (something something quote about stand developing anything) and I do have images. The weirdest looking negs ever, though: a very tan base and very contrasty images on it. Looking forward to scanning it and seeing what it looks like :)
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A tan base? :o
Now that is weird... just like color film in B&W dev.
I really wasn't expecting this!
There's also another way to "process anything"©, it's 3 minutes in PQ Universal ;D
How does the contrast look? I know that in lith dev you get just Blacks and Whites (the contrast curve on this film looks like Niagara Falls), but in HC-110... I have no idea.
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Yup, blacks and whites ;D No greys at all. I decided to scan them in color because some of the shots had a blueish tone (is "blueish" the opposite of tan?). I posted one in the weekend thread (http://www.filmwasters.com/forum/index.php?topic=9330.msg125834#msg125834) :)
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Yup, blacks and whites ;D No greys at all. I decided to scan them in color because some of the shots had a blueish tone (is "blueish" the opposite of tan?). I'll post one in the weekend thread :)
Most color films have an orange base that will result in a blue color when reversed. That's how I got the photo below, I developed it as black and white and scanned it in color:
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3861/15077771140_66a1e7b3c5.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/oYnw4o)Masts & Rigging (https://flic.kr/p/oYnw4o) by Bryan Chernick (https://www.flickr.com/photos/60348236@N07/), on Flickr
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Is that Kodalith too?
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Is that Kodalith too?
That was Kodak Gold 200 semi stand developed in Rodinal 1:100.
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I thought so....