Filmwasters
Which Board? => Main Forum => : imagesfrugales August 26, 2016, 11:04:06 AM
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Friday is my day off, so I'm happy to start the we thread. Like some green sauce?
Shot on Kodak Gold 200 (maybe long expired).
(https://c8.staticflickr.com/9/8338/29161979831_3ea235cbd8_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/LqWLBH)
no admittance 1 (https://flic.kr/p/LqWLBH) by Imagesfrugales (https://www.flickr.com/photos/imagesfrugales/), on Flickr
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/9/8309/29240253105_4f86aeb384_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/LxRWwV)
no admittance 2 (https://flic.kr/p/LxRWwV) by Imagesfrugales (https://www.flickr.com/photos/imagesfrugales/), on Flickr
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Nice work, Reinhold.
Pentax Z1p, Pentax SMC F 35-105mm f4.0-5.6, Agfa APX 100 expired in 1996, Rodinal semi stand.
(https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8840/28234214374_7dc9cb8419_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/K1XJgy)
wind_is_ruffling_my_hair (https://flic.kr/p/K1XJgy) by Miljenko Vrankovic (https://www.flickr.com/photos/100260776@N06/), on Flickr
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Ew! Is that at the Neckarwiese Reinhold?
Mine's from a holiday in May where we stayed on a small vineyard near Graz, Austria.
Minolta Dynax 9xi, 50mm f/1.7, Agfa Vista 400
(https://c6.staticflickr.com/9/8099/29162870701_1e959083d2_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Lr2krx)
Wine crates (https://flic.kr/p/Lr2krx) by Urban Hafner (https://www.flickr.com/photos/127549580@N07/), on Flickr
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Ew! Is that at the Neckarwiese Reinhold?
No, that would be disgusting. It's Mannheim Industrie-Hafen.
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Ew! Is that at the Neckarwiese Reinhold?
No, that would be disgusting. It's Mannheim Industrie-Hafen.
I've been to Mannheim once but luckily I was not exposed to this sauce!
Polaroid SX-70 Alpha 1 / Impossible SX-70 Gen. 2 Colour Film
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Great start !
Really like Reinholds expired Guacamole ... The empty beverage crates are very nice - Flumi's palmtree is great.
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A few recent ones …
(https://c6.staticflickr.com/9/8248/28601725933_857563918d_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/KzrjDK)Early morning on the path (Oudemirdumer Klif) (https://flic.kr/p/KzrjDK) by Andreas (https://www.flickr.com/photos/40275249@N04/), on Flickr
FUJI GW670iii - T-Max 400
(https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8536/28598983814_e4ed1d1cf4_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/KzcgvQ)Workum - Blazer haven (https://flic.kr/p/KzcgvQ) by Andreas (https://www.flickr.com/photos/40275249@N04/), on Flickr
FUJI GW670iii - T-Max 100
(https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8294/28598983854_d7b934df21_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Kzcgww)Blazer TX11 - detail (https://flic.kr/p/Kzcgww) by Andreas (https://www.flickr.com/photos/40275249@N04/), on Flickr
FUJI GW670iii - T-Max 100
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Great start everyone.
This is from the Unfinished: Thoughts Left Visible show at the Met Breuer last weekend. A wonderful show to be sure, and on the floor below there was an outstanding Diane Arbus show with a bunch of unseen early work. A great weekend.
(http://i975.photobucket.com/albums/ae238/jawarden_photos/3bf.jpg)
(Leica M3/Sonnar50mm/PlusX
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Ok, that does it. I need to get some of that 2nd gen IP color film. Looks like they're finally getting it right. Does it still take an hour to develop?
Elsewhere in these archives (http://www.filmwasters.com/forum/index.php?topic=8767.0) I noted that I was recently gifted a Brownie Autographic. JoJonas found a YouTube where they removed the lens "hood" (actually the housing for the second group of lenses that my model doesn't have) to gain an extra stop of light and give the pictures a dreamy, glowing quality. And guess what? It works! :D
(https://c3.staticflickr.com/9/8052/28958028570_b0e8e1559f_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/L7Vt1E)
A hazy shade of Queens (https://flic.kr/p/L7Vt1E) by Satish Indofunk (https://www.flickr.com/photos/indofunk/), on Flickr
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Very nice result, Satish. Ditto your thoughts about IP color: I may have to dust off the SX-70 just to give some a try.
My contributions are more 127 shots---both Portra 160 in the Yashica 44LM
(http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/44/76/42854476.d6654a75.500.jpg) (http://www.ipernity.com/doc/434637/42854476)
I'm walkin' here (http://www.ipernity.com/doc/434637/42854476) par Terry B (http://www.ipernity.com/home/434637), on ipernity
(http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/26/04/42862604.cb0a367c.500.jpg) (http://www.ipernity.com/doc/434637/42862604)
stay off platform (http://www.ipernity.com/doc/434637/42862604) par Terry B (http://www.ipernity.com/home/434637), on ipernity
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Still working through the enormous collection of photos from France, so I'm back into the archives again this week. Lime Rock Historics is next weekend, so here's a shot from last year's event. It's a 1908 Mercedes Brooklands, only three of which were built. This one finished fourth at the very first Indy 500 in 1911. Rolleiflex Old Standard, Ektar.
(https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8309/28960347020_05c509c414_c.jpg)
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Enjoying MacFred's 6x7's. Here are a couple from a roll of Dacomatic I ran through a friend's Kodak Motormatic. That was some wind-up fun!
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7714/29082692976_13f7a5c4c9_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/LiWpoY)
Motormatic-Dacomatic-004 (https://flic.kr/p/LiWpoY) by James Harr (https://www.flickr.com/photos/harrlequin/), on Flickr
(https://c8.staticflickr.com/9/8118/29038140871_50287025b8_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Lf14Be)
Motormatic-Dacomatic-006 (https://flic.kr/p/Lf14Be) by James Harr (https://www.flickr.com/photos/harrlequin/), on Flickr
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Have you specially imported that green slosh from the Rio Olympics diving pool Reinhold? ;D
It's Notting Hill carnival weekend here and I'm not sure whether I'm going so here are some from the Barbados Cropover parade
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Ok, that does it. I need to get some of that 2nd gen IP color film. Looks like they're finally getting it right. Does it still take an hour to develop?
They take about half an hour to develop fully. I always do a test shot to establish the correct dark/light setting every time when there's a new film out. After that I just dial in the correct setting, shoot and put the picture in my pocket to look at later. It usually works out fine. Mind you I take quite extreme measures to keep the pictures in the dark while they develop. I use an IP frog tongue and cover the picture with a used darkslide while transferring it from the camera to a pocket or bag. The developing temperature should be at least 24C, I usually put them inside my jacket or in a shirt pocket for a while.
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Ok, that does it. I need to get some of that 2nd gen IP color film. Looks like they're finally getting it right. Does it still take an hour to develop?
They take about half an hour to develop fully. I always do a test shot to establish the correct dark/light setting every time when there's a new film out. After that I just dial in the correct setting, shoot and put the picture in my pocket to look at later. It usually works out fine. Mind you I take quite extreme measures to keep the pictures in the dark while they develop. I use an IP frog tongue and cover the picture with a used darkslide while transferring it from the camera to a pocket or bag. The developing temperature should be at least 24C, I usually put them inside my jacket or in a shirt pocket for a while.
Yeah, I was exaggerating, the gen 1 stuff also takes about 1/2 hour. I got 2 frog tongues on Leonore's recommendation, but they haven't seem to have made much of a difference for me. Maybe I should try the darkslide trick.
The most annoying thing though is the dark/light setting ... I don't know if it's just my cameras (SX70 and SLR680), but every time I close the camera, it resets the dial to center. And about 90% of the time I forget to set it to the right darkness setting before taking the next shot :-[ So many cameras, so many quirks to remember ;D
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Yeah, I was exaggerating, the gen 1 stuff also takes about 1/2 hour. I got 2 frog tongues on Leonore's recommendation, but they haven't seem to have made much of a difference for me. Maybe I should try the darkslide trick.
The most annoying thing though is the dark/light setting ... I don't know if it's just my cameras (SX70 and SLR680), but every time I close the camera, it resets the dial to center. And about 90% of the time I forget to set it to the right darkness setting before taking the next shot :-[ So many cameras, so many quirks to remember ;D
I think the camera is designed to reset the dial to center, every one that I have owned did that.
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Yeah, I was exaggerating, the gen 1 stuff also takes about 1/2 hour. I got 2 frog tongues on Leonore's recommendation, but they haven't seem to have made much of a difference for me. Maybe I should try the darkslide trick.
The most annoying thing though is the dark/light setting ... I don't know if it's just my cameras (SX70 and SLR680), but every time I close the camera, it resets the dial to center. And about 90% of the time I forget to set it to the right darkness setting before taking the next shot :-[ So many cameras, so many quirks to remember ;D
I think the camera is designed to reset the dial to center, every one that I have owned did that.
The SX-70s are indeed designed like that and I've wasted quite a few shots myself. So you need to think twice before you push the button. As for the frog tongue I always leave the picture under it for a few seconds (count to ten) before I transfer it.
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Even the boxy 600 cameras reset the exposure to zero when you close the flash... or at least mine do.
I know they used to make a special filter that you stuck directly on the pack of film in order to even-out the exposure.
I have the layout of it somewhere on a photocopy. It can be cut from a sheet of Rosco lighting gel.
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Yeah, I was exaggerating, the gen 1 stuff also takes about 1/2 hour. I got 2 frog tongues on Leonore's recommendation, but they haven't seem to have made much of a difference for me. Maybe I should try the darkslide trick.
The most annoying thing though is the dark/light setting ... I don't know if it's just my cameras (SX70 and SLR680), but every time I close the camera, it resets the dial to center. And about 90% of the time I forget to set it to the right darkness setting before taking the next shot :-[ So many cameras, so many quirks to remember ;D
I think the camera is designed to reset the dial to center, every one that I have owned did that.
The SX-70s are indeed designed like that and I've wasted quite a few shots myself. So you need to think twice before you push the button. As for the frog tongue I always leave the picture under it for a few seconds (count to ten) before I transfer it.
That could help too. I only wait 2-3 seconds before pulling it out from under the frog tongue and clumsily trying to transfer it to my back pocket.
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Even the boxy 600 cameras reset the exposure to zero when you close the flash... or at least mine do.
I know they used to make a special filter that you stuck directly on the pack of film in order to even-out the exposure.
I have the layout of it somewhere on a photocopy. It can be cut from a sheet of Rosco lighting gel.
I have a couple of ND pack filters from IP, but they are specifically designed so you can use 600 film in an SX70. So I guess it's a 2.5-stop ND filter? I'd only need a .5-stop ND...
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OR, how about IP design their film so that I DON'T have to set my cameras on 100% dark?? ;D ;D ;D
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Trichromy
(https://c3.staticflickr.com/9/8203/28967758130_69e0a672d6.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/L8MkgG)Brick Lane OPEN SPACE (https://flic.kr/p/L8MkgG) by abdul hye (https://www.flickr.com/photos/mysnapps/), on Flickr
Kodak Vision3 film stock, ISO 1.6.
(https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8271/29147356022_3ce95f30a6.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/LpDPt5)Hoxton Station (https://flic.kr/p/LpDPt5) by abdul hye (https://www.flickr.com/photos/mysnapps/), on Flickr
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Nice....
I'm really impressed with Kai-San's TIP prints, Urban's crates and Satish's contemplative study.
Mine are discoveries from a couple of years ago. Rolleiflex 2.8e + Ilford XP2 Super.
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Trichromy
(https://c3.staticflickr.com/9/8203/28967758130_69e0a672d6.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/L8MkgG)Brick Lane OPEN SPACE (https://flic.kr/p/L8MkgG) by abdul hye (https://www.flickr.com/photos/mysnapps/), on Flickr
Well, damn, this is best.
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Ain't it? I love that effect, Abdul!
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OR, how about IP design their film so that I DON'T have to set my cameras on 100% dark?? ;D ;D ;D
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From what I've heard the light meters in the Polaroid cameras are not very accurate, so there will be variations in how much you need to adjust light/dark.
By the way, I was out shooting some IP film this morning and I noticed another habit that I have acquired over the years. Immediately after I have taken the picture I turn my back against the sun so that the ejected picture will be in the shadow. I guess anybody watching me in action must think I'm some kind of crank. ;D
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Even the boxy 600 cameras reset the exposure to zero when you close the flash... or at least mine do.
I know they used to make a special filter that you stuck directly on the pack of film in order to even-out the exposure.
I have the layout of it somewhere on a photocopy. It can be cut from a sheet of Rosco lighting gel.
I have a couple of ND pack filters from IP, but they are specifically designed so you can use 600 film in an SX70. So I guess it's a 2.5-stop ND filter? I'd only need a .5-stop ND...
Well, it is a switch from 600 ISO to 75 ISO.... My morning brain can't figure out how much a change this is but I know it is quite noticeable...
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Some Fuji instant negatives from a few months ago
(https://imageproxy.viewbook.com/4672/83d395ec692a131014f47575dc8465e8_hd.jpg?fit=max&h=1000&w=1280)
(https://imageproxy.viewbook.com/4672/4e463962b5fe5f10579c68862f13b8bb_hd.jpg?fit=max&h=1000&w=1280)
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More Fuji instant film. Polaroid Automatic 250 Land Camera using a Kali-Copier attachment.
(https://c3.staticflickr.com/9/8106/29235266946_0af54f86c0.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/LxqojE)Yellow Pear Tomatoes (https://flic.kr/p/LxqojE) by Bryan Chernick (https://www.flickr.com/photos/60348236@N07/), on Flickr
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im in.
(https://c4.staticflickr.com/9/8031/29201632931_3c36c1c66a_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Lus16R)
(https://c8.staticflickr.com/9/8401/29201633711_fb83fb1c13_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Lus1ki)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8273/28657718444_de54e19690_c.jpg)
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Great stuff! Absolutely love the trichromy!
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Super weekend everyone!
Now the season of the great indoors are soon upon us (at least in the north of Europe), meaning more time to be spent in the dark.
Walking home one night this lines and the fast walking woman where caught with my Agat 18K and Tri-X rated at 1600 in 1:100 Rodinal stand.
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Late Developer 8)
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Mine are long exposures this week. I used a Haida ND filter (10 steps) and calculated the exposure time with the Ilford FP4+ long exposure compensation table. I was unsure about the results, but to me they're great :)
Sorry for the horizons... :'(
Please, have a look:
(https://c4.staticflickr.com/9/8353/28665746603_ff37eb77d9_o.jpg)
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/9/8515/29286356065_9e3f436fc3_o.jpg)
(https://c8.staticflickr.com/9/8310/29286354375_0d23a457d2_o.jpg)
All taken with a Mamiya C22, a Mamiya Sekor 65 1:3.5, Ilford FP4+ developed in Rodinal (R09) 1+50. Location: La Arnía (North of Spain)
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A lot of great pictures. Like SLVRs first shot so much, beautiful contrast and point of view.
I'm so happy that I just could buy very cheap 20 pc. of Ferrania Solaris FG 200, 35 mm 24 exp. So that's why I post another pic, made on the same film in 126 format with my Instamatic 50 some time ago.
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In camera 8x10 neg shot on Arista 100. Goerz Dagor 8.5". Gum Bichromate print - single layer.
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Thanks imagesfrugales ;D
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Nice shot and nice job on the gum print Poliweb!
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I'm late to the party, but have a pinhole to share.
The pinhole camera is a converted Tower folder that was given to me last year. I finally got around to loading it with some Kentmere glossy RC paper and made a test shot.
The jury is still out on whether or not this is a keeper...
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Well, it does look like the picture was taken from inside an arched tunnel...
Have you thought about putting two pinholes on it side by side? You might get better coverage.
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Nice shot and nice job on the gum print Poliweb!
Thank you!!
Richard
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Loving the Olympus 35RC:
(http://i.imgur.com/WjnOYRs.jpg?1)