Filmwasters
Which Board? => Main Forum => : jharr October 31, 2014, 09:39:33 PM
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My Kodak Instamatic 500 camera doesn't like 35mm perforations. No way around it. I have to make my own 126 film from non-perforated 35mm stock.
Here is the first chapter in what is sure to go down in history as one of the biggest wastes of film (& time) I have ever committed.
Read all about it (http://jamesharrphoto.blogspot.com/2014/10/perforating-126-film.html)
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That's one way of doing things. But the punch won't give a clean hole which might be another problem... there's got to be a better (though not necessarily simpler) way...
I'm thinking that craft stores probably have some small hole punches.
I would make a jig that looks a bit like the top of a castle wall
____ ____
___| |____| |_____ ( I know, nice ascii art)
where the notches would be just the width of the punch and deep enough so that the film gets perforated at just the right depth.
You lay the film down on the plank, attach both ends with binder clips and punch away.
That would probably work better and its not more complicated.
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The holes were pretty clean. The only issue I had was 2 (out of 12) had "hanging chads". This won't be a problem for frame spacing, but if the film disc comes off in the camera or the dev tank it might cause problems there.
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You are a devoted 126 fan! I bow before your gumption!
I definitely think unperforated film might be a better option. If you need some let me know - I have 100ft.
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I've seen similar discussions about perfing cine film on other forums. The machines are expensive and difficult to make but with cine film you have to have good registration to keep the picture from jumping around during projection. Obviously that's not an issue with still film.
I would think that making a template to locate the areas that need tape and having the proper lengths of tape pre cut wouldn't be that hard to do. The template could cover the areas where you don't want tape. You can still get Super 8 film splicing tape that would work great. You can place it where you want it and then cut the excess off the edge or fold it over.
I hope you get this figured out, can't wait to see the results.
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The holes were pretty clean. The only issue I had was 2 (out of 12) had "hanging chads". This won't be a problem for frame spacing, but if the film disc comes off in the camera or the dev tank it might cause problems there.
That's why I'd go for the clean punch method.
I've been looking and found this
Martha Stewart Crafts® 1/4 Circle Heavy Duty Punch
it does a 1/8 inch round hole. Maybe I could find something even smaller...
Oh wait.... I thought you were using an awl for making the holes... a round leather punch would cut clean too though they're not as good with really flat stuff.
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Gorilla tape, nice.
I apologize for getting more excited about your tape than 126.
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Gorilla tape, nice.
I apologize for getting more excited about your tape than 126.
That stuff is super sticky. Way stronger than duck or gaffer's.
Oh wait.... I thought you were using an awl for making the holes... a round leather punch would cut clean too though they're not as good with really flat stuff.
I am using a regular paper hole punch except it makes a 1/8" hole. I think this is just about the right size for the pin to stick into. Could probably go smaller, but can't think of a good reason.
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If only Film Ferrania really gets going and if there is enough demand hopefully they will make both 126 and 110 and a few other dead formats like 620. I know that 620 and 110 are available but a new vendor would be welcome.
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I think 126 is just too expensive to produce compared with 35mm. There are zillions of instamatic cameras out there but most of them have low end lenses and are of the p/s variety. I don't want to spend $25/roll and run it through a $3 camera. The Instamatic 500 and a couple others are exceptions to the general quality of the 126 cameras. I am not going to hold my breath until someone starts making 126 film again. That's why I am trying to figure out how to make my own.
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Then the notch registration technique would be absolutely perfect.
The other way I can see of doing it would involve a complex machine. It would be faster and have a much smaller footprint than the board but would also be a pain to build without a shop.
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I really dont know much about 126 film. Have not tried punching holes into film, but I do have somewhere a old long (22 inches) air powered machine the punches multiple holes into about half inch of paper for book binding. Not sure of the punch size, but I know it can be modified for spacing but don't know how far apart. iirc it has options for 4 or 2 holes per inch.
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So I got a couple rolls through the camera. The first one wasn't lined up with the edge of the jig correctly, so the holes got punched on the very edge of the film and that was too high for the pin to engage. The result was that I only got 5 shots on that 12exp roll. I was more careful on the next one and got 10 shots, but the spacing is too close. The images aren't overlapping, but there is no space between them. So I will make another with the holes a bit farther apart and maybe a bit lower. But in principle it is working just fine and while punching holes in the dark is not 'fun', it does work well enough for me to use this camera, which I quite like.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3939/15741508785_579a61faab_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/pZ2m8T)
instamatic-009 (https://flic.kr/p/pZ2m8T) by James Harr's Photos (https://www.flickr.com/people/12936819@N03/), on Flickr
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5609/15121555684_5fcd94de3e_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/p3eVFj)
instamatic-007 (https://flic.kr/p/p3eVFj) by James Harr's Photos (https://www.flickr.com/people/12936819@N03/), on Flickr
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If it ain't easy it means the board needs a redesign...
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for other submini film I was also thinking about adjusting a electric letter opener to slit some film lengthwise.
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Where did you get the non-perforated film stock from? It would be great if I could get some for re-spooling as 127
Colin
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for other submini film I was also thinking about adjusting a electric letter opener to slit some film lengthwise.
My last letter opener wasn't very good. I doubt this would be the best option.
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Where did you get the non-perforated film stock from? It would be great if I could get some for re-spooling as 127
Colin
Ultrafine Online - Konica 35mm x 100 Ft Roll Professional 160 Color Pro Film NON-PERFORATED
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Konica-35mm-x-100-Ft-Roll-Professional-160-Color-Pro-Film-NON-PERFORATED-/171059155161?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27d3eb90d9 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Konica-35mm-x-100-Ft-Roll-Professional-160-Color-Pro-Film-NON-PERFORATED-/171059155161?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27d3eb90d9)
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for other submini film I was also thinking about adjusting a electric letter opener to slit some film lengthwise.
My last letter opener wasn't very good. I doubt this would be the best option.
I was going to use some expired 110 film for my Sub Miniature Hit camera.
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Many thanks for the info.
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Where did you get...
Ah I was going ask exactly that - I like that (off) colour palette.