Filmwasters
Which Board? => Main Forum => : Urban Hafner October 29, 2014, 05:04:30 PM
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Now that even CineStill is selling that film (at quite a steep price it seems) maybe someone can explain to me why you would use that film. Does it have a unique look? Is it maybe forgiving to shoot? Both?
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I personally like the look. I think it pushes nicely. I wouldn't say it is better or worse than any other B&W film but I like its qualities.
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2861/13383458124_2eb165db74_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/moDHQ1)
Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/moDHQ1) by Mike is always hungry (https://www.flickr.com/people/83310551@N04/), on Flickr
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I don't know if the look is markedly different from any other current black and white stock, only that I really like the results I get from this film. Also I like that it's 200 tungsten / 250 Daylight ISO. It is a bit pricey, so I bought a 100 ft bulk roll to save some money per roll.
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I don't know yet but I have 300feet so I will have plenty of time to tell you about it
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I don't know if the look is markedly different from any other current black and white stock, only that I really like the results I get from this film. Also I like that it's 200 tungsten / 250 Daylight ISO. It is a bit pricey, so I bought a 100 ft bulk roll to save some money per roll.
I got my 300feet for £65 delivered it was a bargain HP5 costs me £50 delivered for 100 feet
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I found when I was shooting through my XX that I just liked the versatility of the film. I could shoot it anywhere from 200 to 1600 and with proper development compensation get great results. However developing in rodinal even with stand development can be tricky and quite grainy. I would stick to D76 or Xtol as a developer because they soften the grain.
@200
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2932/14622919164_36975897c5_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ohbhpW)
@400
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2882/11677222304_0da733c72c_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/iMSPn3)
@800
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5491/10094266813_a202819273_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/gnZKQZ)
@1600
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7396/11257344193_cb70ff9815_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/i9LQeg)
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Why would you want to soften the grain!!?? ;)
(not XX)
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7130/13366700633_703e7be628_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/mnaQpK)
Jasmine II (https://flic.kr/p/mnaQpK) by James Harr's Photos (https://www.flickr.com/people/12936819@N03/), on Flickr
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I found when I was shooting through my XX that I just liked the versatility of the film. I could shoot it anywhere from 200 to 1600 and with proper development compensation get great results. However developing in rodinal even with stand development can be tricky and quite grainy. I would stick to D76 or Xtol as a developer because they soften the grain.
Those are some great shots Tintin! I can see why you like the film (esp. at 400). Is there any site that lists development times?
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http://www.project-double-x.org/devdata.html
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Massive dev chart they even have one for iso6400 in rodinal 1+300 8 hours
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I found when I was shooting through my XX that I just liked the versatility of the film. I could shoot it anywhere from 200 to 1600 and with proper development compensation get great results. However developing in rodinal even with stand development can be tricky and quite grainy. I would stick to D76 or Xtol as a developer because they soften the grain.
Those are some great shots Tintin! I can see why you like the film (esp. at 400). Is there any site that lists development times?
Yeah, that 400 shot looks great! Though I can't tell if that's because I like the film/developer or just because i like the shot :)
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I rather like it too. This is box speed in Hc-110 dil-H
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5477/11101737725_a3de209173_c.jpg) (https://www.flickr.com/photos/ezzie0304/11101737725/)
Angel (https://www.flickr.com/photos/ezzie0304/11101737725/) by Eirik0304 (https://www.flickr.com/people/ezzie0304/), on Flickr
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Is there any site that lists development times?
I found a lot of project XX times were very wrong. Here's my times.
Rodinal:
@200 stand dev 17 min 1:100
@400 stand works at 1h but thick, I think could use less time. Needs experimentation 1:100
@800 1h looks good 1:100
@1600 2h 1:100, flawless. Works every time. Stand.
* these were all semi stand, 3inversions off the top, 1 inversion at the midway point.
@200 rodinal 1:50, 11min 20*c also works but grainy.
Xtol
@200 8min 1:1 20*c
No other times for faster speeds.
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Thank you Tintin! I wasn't even going to ask about development in Rodinal 1:100 as it appears that not many people do it. But it's my preferred method (as I'm lazy). Good to know then times!
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Its strange because 1:100 1h is toted as the be all end all for most films but for XX it just isn't the case. Your negs will come out thick. Almost unusable @ 200. From what I recall 400 was thick too at an hour. I believe the only reason that that specific example came out so well was because it was underexposed. I would start at 40min and fine tune from there.
I only have a couple rolls of XX left as ive worked my way through my 200 ft of it. I'll likely end up keeping it for push. Its really something else at 1600.
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Is there any site that lists development times?
I found a lot of project XX times were very wrong. Here's my times.
Rodinal:
@200 stand dev 17 min 1:100
@400 stand works at 1h but thick, I think could use less time. Needs experimentation 1:100
@800 1h looks good 1:100
@1600 2h 1:100, flawless. Works every time. Stand.
* these were all semi stand, 3inversions off the top, 1 inversion at the midway point.
@200 rodinal 1:50, 11min 20*c also works but grainy.
Xtol
@200 8min 1:1 20*c
No other times for faster speeds.
Do you wet print or are these times just good for scanning
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never wet printed these. Maybe I'll have to bug McDuff to let me in the darkroom to find out. :P
I keep hearing that people "optimize" for scanning by yielding a thinner neg. I don't bother with this and try to keep my neg all looking like they should wet print fine.
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Its really something else at 1600.
Well ok now I want some :P
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Its really something else at 1600.
Well ok now I want some :P
All mine ;) :D
(http://gsgary.smugmug.com/Competitions/Sony-A7/i-VbJ9QwH/0/XL/DSC01470-XL.jpg)
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How are you going to get it into 35mm canisters? IIRC the daylight loaders only take 100ft?
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How are you going to get it into 35mm canisters? IIRC the daylight loaders only take 100ft?
In my new darkrook
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How are you going to get it into 35mm canisters? IIRC the daylight loaders only take 100ft?
You can either roll it up into 100ft rolls, or do like me and just cut a piece of string to the length you want, measure the film against it in the dark and load spools in the dark. It's not hard to do. I actually prefer it over my crappy daylight loader that won't engage the sprocket holes and count the exposures.
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I see. I may give that a try. Where's the best place in Europe to get Double-X then?
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I see. I may give that a try. Where's the best place in Europe to get Double-X then?
I got mine off ebay from a lady I have bought film from before
Try here http://take2films.co.uk/stores/filmstock/black-white-film/eastman-double-x/
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Thanks Gary. That is a really weird site. There aren't even prices on it. :o
Has anyone compared it to Orwo N74+? That one is readily available here (after all it's produced in Germany). I especially wonder about pushing it.
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Thanks Gary. That is a really weird site. There aren't even prices on it. :o
Has anyone compared it to Orwo N74+? That one is readily available here (after all it's produced in Germany). I especially wonder about pushing it.
I have got 100 feet of Orwo UN54 and it is great not tried N74 because I can get HP5 cheaper but what I have seen on Flickr I like
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Aw man, too much choice. :)
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Even more choice when Ferrania get going
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I used XX too and quite liked it.. It prints "wet" nicely too. IIRC I used to develop it in Beutler or similar formulae.
I would sum it up that it looks in 35mm like TriX does in MF - that is very very nice :)
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Aw man, so I need to search a bit more to find some around here.
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Just loaded 1 roll by hand to try it out