Filmwasters
		Which Board? => Main Forum => : Indofunk  August 27, 2014, 12:55:06 AM
		
			
			- 
				So in one of my many ebay deals, I got 4 rolls of TMax. Or at least, what was sold as TMax. The first 3 rolls were indeed TMax, but the fourth roll was an open box, and when I pulled it out, here's what I found:
(http://www.indofunkstudios.com/images/60D/panatomic.jpg)
Clearly, it's not "Panatomic X" (though I love that name), it's something that someone respooled into there. In case it's not obvious from the picture, the filmstock looks green (though the emulsion side is grey). I suppose it *could* be Panatomic X that someone shot a few pictures on and then pulled it out and cut a new leader, but I'm gonna go with the "mystery film" option. So do I just assume it's B&W and process it Rodinal 1:100, which will develop every B&W film ever made or to be made? I wish I could tell if it's C41 (which it probably isn't, due to the thinness of the film and the lack of an orange base).
			 
			
			- 
				(oh, sorry for the d*****l picture, but it's a picture OF film, so that's allowed, right?)
			
 
			
			- 
				Oh, also I have no idea what speed this film is  :o
			
 
			
			- 
				I'm thinking I may shoot a couple of pictures at ASA40 (recommended for Panatomic-X) and just develop those (cut the film) to look for edge markings.
			
 
			
			- 
				Maybe do a clip test? I've never shot that before, but I have developed a few rolls of found film using the Rodinal stand method with great results. 
			
 
			
			- 
				First result on my Google search for "clip test" is FW, naturally :D http://www.filmwasters.com/forum/index.php?topic=3283.0 (http://www.filmwasters.com/forum/index.php?topic=3283.0)
Doesn't seem like it would be THAT different from me shooting a couple of pics and then developing those (along with a little piece of leader) in a given developer for a given amount of time. Except that I wouldn't do a "Rodinal stand developing develops anything" but rather choose a development scheme (eg, HC110 dilH 10min, Rodinal 1:50 10min, etc) and see how that turns out.
			 
			
			- 
				Hey, no problems at all posting digital photos of this nature on Filmwasters. You knew that, right? As long as the 'art' stays trad/film then the "here's my new camera" type of photo is absolutely slowed to be digital. Pictures are pretty. They make the forum look nicer 
			
 
			
			- 
				Slowed=allowed. Thank you auto correct.
			 
			
			- 
				Looking at that thread it looks like the OP has the use for that method of "clip test" wrong. That clip test is meant to test weather your Xtol has died or lost power.
How much of this film do you have? I would start by shooting a roll at common speeds. 50,100,200,400 same subject. Make 4 strips of this and try some times. Depending on your developer/dilution you could start at 12min and work back in 2 minute intervals. Use the same developer/dilution for every test.
Compare this to a density test as francois has linked as well as ease of scanning and voila.
			 
			
			- 
				
Clearly, it's not "Panatomic X" (though I love that name), it's something that someone respooled into there. In case it's not obvious from the picture, the filmstock looks green (though the emulsion side is grey).
One place you can go to to try and figure out what type of stock it could be is the Labeauratoire shop. They have so many odd emulsions available that you might be able to identify just by the base color.
http://www.labeauratoire.com/film/index.html (http://www.labeauratoire.com/film/index.html)
			 
			
			- 
				
Clearly, it's not "Panatomic X" (though I love that name), it's something that someone respooled into there. In case it's not obvious from the picture, the filmstock looks green (though the emulsion side is grey).
One place you can go to to try and figure out what type of stock it could be is the Labeauratoire shop. They have so many odd emulsions available that you might be able to identify just by the base color.
http://www.labeauratoire.com/film/index.html (http://www.labeauratoire.com/film/index.html)
I ordered an experimentation pack of film from him but haven't shot any yet. And he has some pretty neat self-printed labels:
(http://www.machsystems.net/fw/filmexperimentationpack.jpg)
			 
			
			- 
				Could it be poly pan
			
 
			
			- 
				
Looking at that thread it looks like the OP has the use for that method of "clip test" wrong. That clip test is meant to test weather your Xtol has died or lost power.
How much of this film do you have? I would start by shooting a roll at common speeds. 50,100,200,400 same subject. Make 4 strips of this and try some times. Depending on your developer/dilution you could start at 12min and work back in 2 minute intervals. Use the same developer/dilution for every test.
Compare this to a density test as francois has linked as well as ease of scanning and voila.
I only have this one roll, so unfortunately I can't go as in-depth as would be required to get a perfect exposure. I do like the idea of the strip test, I might do that, as it would only use 4 exposures or so.
			 
			
			- 
				
Clearly, it's not "Panatomic X" (though I love that name), it's something that someone respooled into there. In case it's not obvious from the picture, the filmstock looks green (though the emulsion side is grey).
One place you can go to to try and figure out what type of stock it could be is the Labeauratoire shop. They have so many odd emulsions available that you might be able to identify just by the base color.
http://www.labeauratoire.com/film/index.html (http://www.labeauratoire.com/film/index.html)
Thanks, I'll take a poke around there. 
Chad, I love those handmade labels!
			 
			
			- 
				
Clearly, it's not "Panatomic X" (though I love that name), it's something that someone respooled into there. In case it's not obvious from the picture, the filmstock looks green (though the emulsion side is grey).
One place you can go to to try and figure out what type of stock it could be is the Labeauratoire shop. They have so many odd emulsions available that you might be able to identify just by the base color.
http://www.labeauratoire.com/film/index.html (http://www.labeauratoire.com/film/index.html)
Thanks, I'll take a poke around there. 
Chad, I love those handmade labels!
I ordered and shot some of labeauretoire's rolls as well as the cafenol and it's quite a lot of fun. I'd say blackout is the weirdest of them all it's iso .5
I shot it in my AE1 at f2,5 1/15 on a full sunny day to get this.
			 
			
			- 
				I thought I saw a green coloured film that was some kind of Chinese Surveillance film. Maybe on LaBeauratoire or maybe on FPP? Or maybe on eBay? In anycase, it was green coloured film and was B&W. 
			
 
			
			- 
				Yeah, the closest I could find on LaB were both surveillance-type B&W films that he recommended developing in Rodinal 1:100 for an hour, which is what I was planning on doing anyways :)
Peter, I love that blackout shot!
			 
			
			- 
				
I'd say blackout is the weirdest of them all it's iso .5
Holy c***, that is low sensitivity!
How's the grain on that?
			 
			
			- 
				Wow, I missed that decimal point before the 5 :o Is there any such thing as ISO 0 film? Leave it exposing for infinity and it never *quite* gets exposed :D
			
 
			
			- 
				
I ordered and shot some of labeauretoire's rolls as well as the cafenol and it's quite a lot of fun. I'd say blackout is the weirdest of them all it's iso .5
I shot it in my AE1 at f2,5 1/15 on a full sunny day to get this.
I'm looking forward to shooting the Blackout but I don't know how I'll meter for it.
			 
			
			- 
				Our long national nightmare is over. I wrote to a Flickr user Wordslingersam who has posted lots of Panatomic-X photos, and he positively identified the "bottle-green" emulsion as Pan-X, probably from the 80's. He recommended shooting it at 16 and developing in Rodinal 1:100, although I think I'll shoot it at least 25. I'd also like to know if it's possible to develop this in HC110 with any success. What would be a "safe" HC110 scheme akin to the mighty Rodinal 1:100 stand?
PanX Flickr group
https://www.flickr.com/groups/16391069@N00/ (https://www.flickr.com/groups/16391069@N00/)
			 
			
			- 
				Originally, Kodak suggested using Dil. B for 4½ minutes at 68°F or Dil. A for 2¾ minutes at 68°F
I think regular development should work... There is semi-stand development that's possible with HC-110 but I don't think it will give you results that are nearly as nice as with Rodinal. 
			 
			
			- 
				
Originally, Kodak suggested using Dil. B for 4½ minutes at 68°F or Dil. A for 2¾ minutes at 68°F
I think regular development should work... There is semi-stand development that's possible with HC-110 but I don't think it will give you results that are nearly as nice as with Rodinal.
I think I'm going to try that. Except DilH (my fave) for 9min :)
			 
			
			- 
				I just checked my last roll of Panatomic X, and it has a black leader with a tanish gray emulsion side.
 Good luck with your film.
			 
			
			- 
				
I just checked my last roll of Panatomic X, and it has a black leader with a tanish gray emulsion side.
 Good luck with your film.
The few pictures of PanX on the internet that showed their leaders were also black/dark brown, but that Flickr user said he's seen green leaders too, so I'm just going to blindly trust that and pretend that it is indeed PanX :) At the very least, I'm hoping the edge markings come out so the long (inter)national nightmare can eventually be laid to rest.
			 
			
			- 
				I suppose you COULD always just pull it out and see if its attached to the stump from the previous roll, all done in the dark of course
			
 
			
			- 
				How lucky for you!  Pan-X was my favorite B/W film in the 80s and I miss it so!    :)
 
			 
			
			- 
				
Originally, Kodak suggested using Dil. B for 4½ minutes at 68°F or Dil. A for 2¾ minutes at 68°F
I think regular development should work... There is semi-stand development that's possible with HC-110 but I don't think it will give you results that are nearly as nice as with Rodinal.
I think I'm going to try that. Except DilH (my fave) for 9min :)
Actually I was looking through that Flickr group and it seems people are developing in dilution B for 6 minutes, which is what I use for TMax (dil H 12min). So there we have it, I will expose at EI 25 and develop in HC110 H 12min. Thank you internet! :)
			 
			
			- 
				
I ordered and shot some of labeauretoire's rolls as well as the cafenol and it's quite a lot of fun. I'd say blackout is the weirdest of them all it's iso .5
I shot it in my AE1 at f2,5 1/15 on a full sunny day to get this.
I'm looking forward to shooting the Blackout but I don't know how I'll meter for it.
I've got a light meter app on my iphone which goes to iso 0.8 could be useful for this kinda experimental stuff
I'd say blackout is the weirdest of them all it's iso .5
Holy c***, that is low sensitivity!
How's the grain on that?
This shot is scanned with my old scanner, I'll run it trough the epson V700, which I've begun to love, and see how it goes on a high res.
Oh before I forget, it is actualy a positive, can't remember but I think I souped it in Cafenol and bring a tripod when shooting it  ;D
			 
			
			- 
				If you want to test your patience and reciprocity, try it in a pinhole  :P
			
 
			
			- 
				Forgot to update this thread. What happened was nothing short of tragedy ... there were in fact only 8 shots left on the damn roll! However, I processed it in HC110 dil H for 12 minutes just like I promised, and it came out just fine :) With so few pictures, I had to lower my standards for "keepers" so I could show you something, so here are 4 "meh" shots from a short walk in Harlem :)
(http://www.indofunkstudios.com/images/canonet/2014_09_13_panatomicx/20140913_01.jpg)
(http://www.indofunkstudios.com/images/canonet/2014_09_13_panatomicx/20140913_02.jpg)
(http://www.indofunkstudios.com/images/canonet/2014_09_13_panatomicx/20140913_03.jpg)
(http://www.indofunkstudios.com/images/canonet/2014_09_13_panatomicx/20140913_04.jpg)