Filmwasters
Which Board? => Main Forum => : LEAFotography January 02, 2013, 08:29:19 PM
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hmm ok rate it at 1600
that sounds about right . . . ish
from this topic over at flickr suggests a 1 stop
compensation for every 10 years of expiration.
http://www.flickr.com/groups/ishootfilm/discuss/72157623350719006/?search=expired+film (http://www.flickr.com/groups/ishootfilm/discuss/72157623350719006/?search=expired+film)
This is an interesting discussion (there) and here, and I wanted to run a few things by you about an upcoming project with a few films that expired in 1964 to celebrate my 50th year...I'm not sure if this should go in a new thread, but it's about increasing the likelihood of me useable image out of these films.
My example is an 135/20 film of High Speed (ISO 160) Ektachrome, Type B (Tungsten balanced, I think) stored in unknown conditions that expired August 1964 (I was born in Feb 1964). Am I right in thinking that, by the 1 stop for each decade, I should increase exposure by 5 stops? Are there any user experiences that suggest there's some limit to the degree such compensation I should make?
If I'm reading (as if the film is 'fresh') f11 1/60, then I might start with f5.6 1/8?
And (if this is E-2 process) would it be better to cross process with C-41 chemicals (to increase the contrast at cost of what weird colours remain) or b/w, or send it to a specialist?
Though I'm tempted to keep these for the delight of having them, they were also made to be enjoyed and storing them means they'll never realise their full potential. A filmwaster, yes?
Any comments, experience/advice, derision or encouragement would be most welcome, thanks :D
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LF - I've split this away from the original thread as I think it is so interesting and important that it deserved its own thread - and hopefully more people will see it now. I didn't want it to get lost amongst the tmax stuff. If you are not happy with the title, let me know what you want it to be called, and I'll edit it.
Cheers
Leon.
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Thanks very much for that Leon, I wasn't sure where it fitted in, and the title says exactly what it is.
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I was just calculating this and the film should be somewhere in the vicinity of 5 ASA (old skool film, old skool rating :) )
The closest DX setting I could find is EI 6.
Now, for processing, I wouldn't try and get this through a machine as the emulsion will most likely disintegrate under the heat.
That leaves only a few choices: Custom processing that will give you a B&W image, DIY low temperature C-41 Xpro and B&W.
Personally, I'd go for B&W as it's the cheapest you can do. And if it doesn't work, then it's just too bad.
I'd do something like 10 minutes in PQ Universal and the same in rapid fix... but that's just mu 2ยข worth.
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while Francois would probably be the man to set you off in the right direction >
I did a quick search on google and our own Sean ( moominsean ) has posted some extensive info
on your film on his blog > http://moominsean.blogspot.ie/2009/02/e-2-slide-film-home-processing.html (http://moominsean.blogspot.ie/2009/02/e-2-slide-film-home-processing.html)
now I clock out and watch from the spectators stand :D
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Sean's method is not totally wrong in itself.
E-6 and C-41 are pretty close to each others. The main differences are that slide film start with a special B&W developer and they use an inversion bath at some point in the process.
In the old days, they used to develop, bleach out the developed silver, expose to light to expose the undeveloped silver, re-develop and fix. But now, things are easier.