Filmwasters
Which Board? => Main Forum => : KeithCostin December 22, 2009, 09:18:46 PM
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Hello everybody! I've been shooting film for the past year, but I've just recently decided to jump in into b&w negative processing. I picked up a packet of Kodak D76 which came in a powdered form and made a 1/4 gallon of developer when mixed with water. My question is this: does this resulting mix count as a 1:1 solution or full strength? For some reason Google is failing me on this one. Like I said, total n00b question :) Thanks!
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When it's just the mix like Kodak instructed, it's full strength. 1+1 means 1 part chemical for 1 part water.
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yeah the mix is full strength. so when you use it, you dilute it 1:1 with water...this is usually how i adjust the temp with cold water (or warm if it's cold where you live). most films can be developed from 8-12 minutes at 1:1.
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So glad someone else has to ask these questions too..always feel like a dimwit when I can't figure out these formulas!......hope to see some of your results soon!
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So glad someone else has to ask these questions too..always feel like a dimwit when I can't figure out these formulas!......hope to see some of your results soon!
That's why I made a program (which is in the software suite I posted as Contraption 4 (http://filmwasters.com/forum/index.php?topic=2580.0)) that does exactly those calculations for me :)
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Unless you really want to use Kodak, I found Rodinal much easiear to deal with. No mixing powder hassle and a VERY small bottle as the solution is concentrate. ;)
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I can some advantage in making one quart of stock solution from powder at a time. I usually make five liters of Xtol. Unless I store it in five separate bottles, it sometimes goes bad before I can use it all.
How does Rodinal hold up once the bottle of concentrate is opened?
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How does Rodinal hold up once the bottle of concentrate is opened?
I have a bottle I started in 2000. It's as black as espresso with oxidisation yet works as well as the day I opened it. I must admit to not being a fan of rodinal for anything other than the slower t/delta grain films or ultra slow trad emulsions. The grain is too intrusive for me despite the dilution or agitation method.
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As a noob to film developing myself having done a bit of reading and taken advice from, the venerable, Leon I decided get one developer and one film (in my case Rodinal and Tri-X) and stick to it a while just to reduce the variables.
Leon's bang on, the grain is a bit chunky but I'm trying to work with it for now and it's not unpleasant. Once I've got over the shock I haven't balls'd it up every time I develop a film then I might try experimenting a little.
I have high hopes that Santa's bring me a copy of this http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/0240802772/ref=s9_sima_gw_s16_p14_i1?pf_rd_m=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&pf_rd_s=center-2&pf_rd_r=126P05AMVGGEZRRR1Z38&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=467128533&pf_rd_i=468294 ;) ;)
I'll be great to see some of your results.
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At the risk of over-exposing this nap, i'd like to point out that it was snapped with Legacy400@1600 souped in Rodinal 1:100 for around 2 hours. Grain is fine - for me. Print is on Adox vario FB
[Sorry, image deleted during forum software upgrade. Please re-upload if so inclined.]
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Wow, Andrea. Your picture is all I need to persuade me to try Rodinal. I am on my way to our one remaining photo store here in Providence. Hopefully, they will have a bottle on the shelf...
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d-76 is a good basic developer, though...
i've had rodinal go "instant death" on me, but it is warm here most of the year.
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I'm mostly a fan of D-76 too (because I'm cheap and D-76 is probably the lowest cost out there)...
But back in college, they used to provide us with some HC-110 which is very good (I like it more than D-76) and can give incredible grain when used "improperly" :)
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My local photo supply store manager just told me that Rodinal is out of production. Agfa Photo is belly-up. (This probably isn't news to most filmwasters but I didn't know.) Stores that have Rodinol on their shelves will sell it but they can't ship it--at least not in the US. I may have to buy the chemicals and make my own soup if I want to try something like Rodinol. Anyone done this?
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Freestyle Photographic Supply will ship Rodinal via ground, no problem. Of coarse that doesn't help people who are overseas. As far as shelf life I find that my opened Rodinal last for several years. I keep the bottle in the orignal box it came with to protect if from light, don't know if this is necessary, but it's what I do.
Roger
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not sure i understand the agfa thing, cuz they went bankrupt and all the products disappeared, but then reappeared. someone must have bought them or re-invested.
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Thanks for the tip, rtbadman. I just ordered some Rodinol from Freestyle Photographic Supply .
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not sure i understand the agfa thing, cuz they went bankrupt and all the products disappeared, but then reappeared. someone must have bought them or re-invested.
Here is what I found on some other forum
If the bottle is of silar plastic it's of the 80's till now. Before it was glass.
If it's the original Agfa logo rombus, before 2004. If it's the Agfa Photo point, 2005. If it is marked Rodinal R09 "made in Germany" 2008 and if it's marked Agfa Rodinal by A&O 2006-2007. All the same stuff is comming from the chemical plant in Vaihingen-Enz, Germany.
Even the new Fomadon R09 (rounded corner bottles, marked Fomadon R09 NEW) from Foma is Rodinal now with the regular 1+25, 1+50 and 1+100 dilutions.
A&O sold the chemical plant to CMS.
The Trademark Rodinal is changed to "R09 one shot" made in Germany. And even Foma is filling up in their new Fomadon R09.
The reason is simple:
Agfa and Rodinal are registered trademarks of Agfa-Gevaert, Leverkusen/Antwerp, bought by LUPUS.
Agfa Gevaert was merged in 1964. Agfa Leverkusen and Gevaert in Mortsel/Antwerpen. Agfa Photo was merged in 2004 so your bottle must be certainly between 1964-2004. Because it's plastic it must be in the 80's till 2004.
Rodinal is very light Yellow (packed under Nitrogen when filled) when it's new in production. Within a year it's light brown due to diffusion of the bottle so many partners oversea will receive Rodinal in a light brown color.
It's already said: It doesn't matter because even when it's dark brown to almost black, Rodinal will work. It's a real exception in liquid developers.
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Andrea..I am now convinced to try something other than the D-76..that image above is wonderful..will order Rodinal from freestyle..it is so nice to have this forum for asking questions..I would be lost without it! (well, I am still sort of lost..but will try to muddle through!)now...can I still use the other chemicals such as the (KODAK) fix etc..that I have with using rodinal as my developer...??
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Regarding to the whole agfa thing, apparently they're bring film back to the Us market :
http://reviews.photographyreview.com/blog/agfa-film-re-introduced-in-north-america/
Rodinal works fine for me as well, if I use 100ISO I have no "problems" with grain...
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can I still use the other chemicals such as the (KODAK) fix etc..that I have with using rodinal as my developer...??
All the other chemicals are universal so you can use stop bath and fixer by Kodak without second thoughts.
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Thank you Francois..I appreciate your taking the time to answer my question..that really helps me!
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You're welcome :)