Topic: developer dilution question

[al]

Ok I googled for some time on this but didn't really come up with an answer to this newbie dev question, so thought I'd try the experts here....

Developer will often have a number of dilution options, but what would be the reasons for choosing a certain dilution, apart from stronger solutions mean less hours fighting the boredom of watching a stopwatch, weaker ones are more economical (at least for one-shot).... Is there some grain/sharpness/contrast trade-off too?

al

[LT]

the more dilute the developer, the more you introduce some compensation to the development process (ie shadows and highlights develop at a more even rate, rather than highlights steaming ahead while shadows slowly gambol) although this is helped along by minimal/ stand agitation (or no agitation as the case may be) techniques - people claim that when used together, these techniques enhance edge sharpness (acutance) giving a perceived sharper image .  It is also saves a bit of cash too .   

[Mark H]

I use Kodak D-76 diluted 1:1-using TRI-X 400 film. Develop for 11 min agitating the first 30 sec and 5 sec every minute thereafter.  Always pleased with the results--Good Luck--Mark

[al]

the more dilute the developer, the more you introduce some compensation to the development process (ie shadows and highlights develop at a more even rate, rather than highlights steaming ahead while shadows slowly gambol) although this is helped along by minimal/ stand agitation (or no agitation as the case may be) techniques - people claim that when used together, these techniques enhance edge sharpness (acutance) giving a perceived sharper image .  It is also saves a bit of cash too .   

Thanks Leon.  I have sometimes been a bit disapointed by the lack I shadow detail I was getting - maybe my initial exposure was at fault, maybe I'm expecting too much latitude out of the film, perhaps the jessops own brand developer is as crap as everyone says it is... but this certainly gives some ideas to play with.

[LT]

I'd try exposing the film a little more if you've problems with shadows.  Try 2/3 - 1 stop and see what you get.

[Francois]

Film sensitivities and meter sensitivities sometimes differ (quite a bit).

As Ansel said, test the film/developer combos and use what works for your own setup and tastes.
Also, don't forget that film speed is influenced by the developper used.
I've seen some 400ISO film get a EI of only 320 with some developers!
If that's the case with your film/dev combo, you would actually expose a "320ISO" film at 400ISO... thus, underexposed without even noticing it (even if it says 400ISO on the roll).

I hope it is clear... or at least somewhat clear (not easy to understand at first... just don't trust the DX coding blindly)