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(http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/56/30/42065630.61f05a20.500.jpg)
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Eirik, is that the one Jonny sent to me? I think we need a picture. ;)
Got to have a steady hand for shutter work--well done!
Great job O2Pilot, did you take a "before" picture?
Another anamorphic pinhole. This one from an old 35mm bulk roll can. I might devise a fancier shutter if it produces good results. This will make up to a 35x310 anamorphic image or a 70x70 regular flat image.Oooh, a bulk roll can! First I thought you had turned one of those robo-vacuum cleaners into a pinhole camera :D
And because I'm such a nerd and have nerd friends, I wrote an R script that gives me an exposure table. I give it the size of the pinhole, the radius of the film path, the thickness of the pinhole material, the upper and lower vertical distances of the film from the pinhole, and a list of iso's and it does this.And reciprocity? 😃😛😃
And reciprocity? 😃😛😃Well, I suppose I could include reciprocity factors for every known emulsion in any light source and factor in age past expiration, but I think I'll leave some of the 'mystery' in the process! :P
I just made something... well, it's not fully completed but I'm so happy with the progress so far that I'm showing it in its unfinished state... a rare thing.
<snip>
But anyway, here's the project as it stands right now
Nice tongue depressors ;)
Chad, here's the inside view of your shutter.
http://www.cameramanuals.org/prof_pdf/photographic_inter-lens_shutters-1.pdf (http://www.cameramanuals.org/prof_pdf/photographic_inter-lens_shutters-1.pdf)
I would encourage you to open it up; these old pump-retard shutters are simpler than the many-tiny-gears-that-spin-and-whiz designs. I just cleaned and repaired an old Koilos and it was a lot of fun to work on. And it hits the exposure times rather closely.
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I would encourage you to open it up; these old pump-retard shutters are simpler than the many-tiny-gears-that-spin-and-whiz designs.
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That's nice looking James, did she draw all that by hand?
I appear to have three now: the Blackbladder, the oRBo 67, and the Graflic 69. These last two have some Acros sitting inside waiting for the sun to come out.And not a bellows to be seen!?
The RB 6x7 back has had an upgrade with a longer focal length and a better pinhole so I'll be annoyed if I still only get a circle of image like the last test. But I think it will be fine. And the Graflex 6x9 has a focal length of 45mm so that should be fine as well. We'll see.
Chances are I'll make one for the Grafmatic 4x5 6-shot film magazine as well, eventually.
I wonder if the British racing green leather actually makes the camera go faster? :P
Just kidding... It does look pretty darn good I must say.
Visiting MTL for a stay or just transit?
Trudeau Airport
Sandeha Lynch. Just a guess here, Francois, but if the sliding cover had a click then it was probably just a detente ball on a spring, and if the cover was off its rail then I guess the ball just rolled away leaving a scratchy spring end.
Now that is impressive! You must be happy with that!!!
Can I see an end view of those rails?
I think I know how they are shaped, but would like a peek....
I'm always looking for things and pieces to make more astronomy gear.
thanks
Since that bearing is actually more like a piece of rod and not a ball, I went through the trouble to make one.I also lost the roller from an XA and XA2. Replaced it with a small snippet of a wooden toothpick. Works fine.
First one I made was too big in diameter. Too bad because it was made from very nice steel.
So I ended-up making one from a finish nail.
For those who lost their's, the best diameter is around 2mm. The length of the roller is 4mm.
It's located on top of the camera.
So now, my XA actually stays open when I need it to!
Seriously cool Franken-folder!
From the little experience I have with pinhole and fp100c, it´s nowhere as "bad" as the 3000b when it comes to reciprocity.
I read somewhere that FP100C doesn't look very good shot with a pinhole, but I will give it a try.
I never reflected on that, might be that I just accepted the results, beeing pinhole but to my eye they looked fine.
I read somewhere that FP100C doesn't look very good shot with a pinhole, but I will give it a try.
I never reflected on that, might be that I just accepted the results, beeing pinhole but to my eye they looked fine.
I read somewhere that FP100C doesn't look very good shot with a pinhole, but I will give it a try.
I never reflected on that, might be that I just accepted the results, beeing pinhole but to my eye they looked fine.
isn't it just that the fuji fp100c gets a blue cast from long exposures?
It could be used normally if another view screen back were found, together with film holders, but you can see in the first shot that the back has been modified such that the negative is now pressed against the empty door, in front of the screen. It certainly close focuses though, and like Mauricio Sapata's version, will be used mainly for portraits.ah, yes. I should've thought about that you've probably had to move where the film goes a bit back so that'd effectively make it to focus more closely. maybe it's even as far off as it can be focused on that shot of the focus screen?
I've done custom carriers many times. Not really hard to do, but don't expect straight edges on your prints unless you also use an easel.
What I've found is that pretty much anything that's opaque and won't scratch the film will do the job just fine.
Fixed my wonky needled darkroom timerI still have to do this with my vintage time-o-lite that keeps going past zero...
the end result looks great, Sandeha! is that the paper box on the right side of the camera?
Just to reassure you, there were more parts a few hours ago...
I had it taken apart up to the aperture blades... what a b**** to put back together.
On this camera, the aperture is entirely adjustable by loosening 3 ill placed screws and rotating a mount that also holds the blades. No markings whatsoever.
And my marks for where the helix should mate got wiped-out from all the handling... I guess I've got a few more hours to go on this one...
Just to reassure you, there were more parts a few hours ago...
I had it taken apart up to the aperture blades... what a b**** to put back together.
On this camera, the aperture is entirely adjustable by loosening 3 ill placed screws and rotating a mount that also holds the blades. No markings whatsoever.
And my marks for where the helix should mate got wiped-out from all the handling... I guess I've got a few more hours to go on this one...
I can take a lens apart no problem, putting it back together, not so much. Hopefully you don't have any parts left over.
Last night I repaired the battery compartment of a Canon T50and made sure everything was functioning properly for a co-worker. Turns out one of the cheap zoom lenses he had was not stopping down but everything else worked great. He was quite grateful to get it working.
I then moved on to my Kodak Signet 35 to clean the rangefinder and try to make the RF patch more visible in the viewfinder like we were discussing in the Olympus XA thread. One thing I noticed after cleaning it is that there are three images in the RF patch rather than two. one is brighter than the other and is clearly the correct one but I can see where there could be some confusion when focusing. I tried placing some tape in the viewfinder window but the image is still not very visible under most normal conditions. What I think happened is the coating is totally gone from the beam splitter and I'm getting an image from both sides of it. my conclusion is that I need a new beam splitter before I go any further with it.
After looking at a few web sites that cover adjusting and repairing the Signet 35 I found that the Minolta Hi-Matic F and the Konica Auto S2 both have beam splitters that will fit perfectly. I have a good working Minolta Hi-Matic F but I don't want to destroy it for this. What I need is parts camera that I can salvage one from. If anyone has a non-working Hi-Matic F or Auto S2 that they can part with let me know, maybe we can arrange a trade or something. I know I can order the beam splitter glass and cut it to shape but I hate cutting glass, I always screw it up.
The Hi-Matic 7 came out in 1963, the Konica Auto S2 came out in 1965 and the Hi-Matic F came out in 1972. If they used the same rangefinder mechanism on all of them then it would probably work. Does the rangefinder look good on it and can you open it and get a rough measurement?Last night I repaired the battery compartment of a Canon T50and made sure everything was functioning properly for a co-worker. Turns out one of the cheap zoom lenses he had was not stopping down but everything else worked great. He was quite grateful to get it working.
I then moved on to my Kodak Signet 35 to clean the rangefinder and try to make the RF patch more visible in the viewfinder like we were discussing in the Olympus XA thread. One thing I noticed after cleaning it is that there are three images in the RF patch rather than two. one is brighter than the other and is clearly the correct one but I can see where there could be some confusion when focusing. I tried placing some tape in the viewfinder window but the image is still not very visible under most normal conditions. What I think happened is the coating is totally gone from the beam splitter and I'm getting an image from both sides of it. my conclusion is that I need a new beam splitter before I go any further with it.
After looking at a few web sites that cover adjusting and repairing the Signet 35 I found that the Minolta Hi-Matic F and the Konica Auto S2 both have beam splitters that will fit perfectly. I have a good working Minolta Hi-Matic F but I don't want to destroy it for this. What I need is parts camera that I can salvage one from. If anyone has a non-working Hi-Matic F or Auto S2 that they can part with let me know, maybe we can arrange a trade or something. I know I can order the beam splitter glass and cut it to shape but I hate cutting glass, I always screw it up.
I have a HiMatic 7 if that would work...
The Hi-Matic 7 came out in 1963, the Konica Auto S2 came out in 1965 and the Hi-Matic F came out in 1972. If they used the same rangefinder mechanism on all of them then it would probably work. Does the rangefinder look good on it and can you open it and get a rough measurement?Last night I repaired the battery compartment of a Canon T50and made sure everything was functioning properly for a co-worker. Turns out one of the cheap zoom lenses he had was not stopping down but everything else worked great. He was quite grateful to get it working.
I then moved on to my Kodak Signet 35 to clean the rangefinder and try to make the RF patch more visible in the viewfinder like we were discussing in the Olympus XA thread. One thing I noticed after cleaning it is that there are three images in the RF patch rather than two. one is brighter than the other and is clearly the correct one but I can see where there could be some confusion when focusing. I tried placing some tape in the viewfinder window but the image is still not very visible under most normal conditions. What I think happened is the coating is totally gone from the beam splitter and I'm getting an image from both sides of it. my conclusion is that I need a new beam splitter before I go any further with it.
After looking at a few web sites that cover adjusting and repairing the Signet 35 I found that the Minolta Hi-Matic F and the Konica Auto S2 both have beam splitters that will fit perfectly. I have a good working Minolta Hi-Matic F but I don't want to destroy it for this. What I need is parts camera that I can salvage one from. If anyone has a non-working Hi-Matic F or Auto S2 that they can part with let me know, maybe we can arrange a trade or something. I know I can order the beam splitter glass and cut it to shape but I hate cutting glass, I always screw it up.
I have a HiMatic 7 if that would work...
Ok, what do I measure, and how accurate does it need to be? I have digital calipers, but I'm pretty sure they're out of whack. Other than that, I have a ruler :(
(http://konakkol.com/images/other/20170418_165228.jpg) (http://konakkol.com/images/other/20170418_165228.jpg)
(you can click to embigify it)
Ok, what do I measure, and how accurate does it need to be? I have digital calipers, but I'm pretty sure they're out of whack. Other than that, I have a ruler :(
The angled mirror on the left at the viewfinder window. You don't need to be exact in the measurement just as close as you can get. I'll measure the Signet 35 this evening to see if they are close.
I think your measurements are cm not mm unless it's very small. Either way it looks like it's a different size. The one in my Signet 35 measures about 19mm wide, 10mm high and 2.5mm thick. Thanks for checking that Satish.Ok, what do I measure, and how accurate does it need to be? I have digital calipers, but I'm pretty sure they're out of whack. Other than that, I have a ruler :(
The angled mirror on the left at the viewfinder window. You don't need to be exact in the measurement just as close as you can get. I'll measure the Signet 35 this evening to see if they are close.
Width is about 2.5-2.7mm, depending on where I measure from (the bottom left screw, or trying to actually see where the mirror begins). Height is about 1.5mm.
;D Of course you're right, it's cm not mm. I'm American, I don't know about this metric stuff :D Sorry it didn't work out ;)I think your measurements are cm not mm unless it's very small. Either way it looks like it's a different size. The one in my Signet 35 measures about 19mm wide, 10mm high and 2.5mm thick. Thanks for checking that Satish.Ok, what do I measure, and how accurate does it need to be? I have digital calipers, but I'm pretty sure they're out of whack. Other than that, I have a ruler :(
The angled mirror on the left at the viewfinder window. You don't need to be exact in the measurement just as close as you can get. I'll measure the Signet 35 this evening to see if they are close.
Width is about 2.5-2.7mm, depending on where I measure from (the bottom left screw, or trying to actually see where the mirror begins). Height is about 1.5mm.
That is an odd looking bellows set...
My fist in the air nearly broke the sound barrier when the last little stud popped into place.
This was stone dead when it arrived - no signs of electronic life whatsoever. It has been resurrected and is now feeling quite really better. Full details here: https://filmosaur.wordpress.com/2017/04/26/meet-the-camera-hexar-af-rhodium/
;D Of course you're right, it's cm not mm. I'm American, I don't know about this metric stuff :D Sorry it didn't work out ;)I think your measurements are cm not mm unless it's very small. Either way it looks like it's a different size. The one in my Signet 35 measures about 19mm wide, 10mm high and 2.5mm thick. Thanks for checking that Satish.Ok, what do I measure, and how accurate does it need to be? I have digital calipers, but I'm pretty sure they're out of whack. Other than that, I have a ruler :(
The angled mirror on the left at the viewfinder window. You don't need to be exact in the measurement just as close as you can get. I'll measure the Signet 35 this evening to see if they are close.
Width is about 2.5-2.7mm, depending on where I measure from (the bottom left screw, or trying to actually see where the mirror begins). Height is about 1.5mm.
#=== =# ?
| | |
| | +---- Light source
Camera Camera (to be adjusted)
w/ w/
>210mm scratched Film
There's nothing particularly difficult about the Leica mechanics; as you found, they come apart and go back together relatively easily, as long as you pay attention to all the little parts and how they fit. There are, however, a few points to note. One is that there are adjustments that can be very fiddly to get exactly right (slow speed lever, shutter brake on the later models, curtain tension, to name a few). The second is the question of lubrication; Leica used a ridiculous number of different lubricants in these cameras, and while I've never tried to determine the properties of each, let alone replicate them (whale oil is hard to find these days), careful lubrication is important to maximize the life of the components. I've found that Breakfree CLP (a firearms lubricant) is a good general purpose oil, while molybdenum grease, clear synthetic all-purpose grease (Superlube), and synthetic automotive wheel bearing grease are useful in different areas.
I don't care for lithium grease, at least the ones I've tried, as they tend to separate. Mineral oil is OK as long as you're not using the camera in very cold temps. Everyone has their own preferences at this point, as the original options are long gone for the most part.
I don't care for lithium grease, at least the ones I've tried, as they tend to separate. Mineral oil is OK as long as you're not using the camera in very cold temps. Everyone has their own preferences at this point, as the original options are long gone for the most part.
I have noticed that with the Lithium grease, I'll look into getting some of the lubricants you mentioned. One thing I started thinking about after I got everything back together was lubricating the slow speed shaft where the brass speed adjuster comes in contact with it. I assume that shaft rotates against the brass adjuster when using the slow speeds. I didn't see anything about it in the instructions but it seems that would be a spot that could use some lubrication.
That’s a nice looking setup Peter, I like the rack setup for centering on the negative. I found in addition to masking the negatives that you either need to scan in the dark or use bellows like my newest setup (link below). Otherwise you can get reflections on the negative. I use the macro zoom lens that came with my Olympus OM-D E-M5. I use the macro setting for everything up to 6x6 negatives.
http://www.filmwasters.com/forum/index.php?topic=8655.msg123458#msg123458 (http://www.filmwasters.com/forum/index.php?topic=8655.msg123458#msg123458)
You're a lucky guy if it works, the Contax T2 sells for silly prices at the moment. I've been looking at the first one, the T which is a "folder" like the Minox'es. It's manual focus, so I'm afraid it might be a bit fiddly given the tiny size.
Raphael Orlove, features editor on the automotive site Jalopnik, has written about his attempts to repair a Pentacon 50mm for an otherwise working Praktica LTL. Section titles include "YouTube is a Lie", "The Only Thing You Can Count On With Old Parts Is That They Will Deceive You And Fail You", and "If Something Seems Like It Requires Experience, Be Prepared To Do It Over A Dozen Times", which sum up my experiences whenever I've tried to work on a lens. Well, that, and an appalling lack of fine motor skills and manual dexterity.
https://jalopnik.com/how-not-to-fix-something-1825611360 (https://jalopnik.com/how-not-to-fix-something-1825611360)
Outstanding work, Bryan. The IIIf looks like new. Very well executed. May I ask what type of glue you used? I always have trouble glueing things to bare metal.
Gem Bond or Jewel Bond are best for sticking down leatherettes to bare metal. They're designed to glue sequins onto fabrics but they have the right density for camera bodies.How permanent is it Sandeha? Could the covers be removed again without damage if necessary?
Gem Bond or Jewel Bond are best for sticking down leatherettes to bare metal. They're designed to glue sequins onto fabrics but they have the right density for camera bodies.How permanent is it Sandeha? Could the covers be removed again without damage if necessary?
The result is great, Bryan. Can you give us a quick hint how you do the painting and how you make the paint stick on the bakelite (if that indeed is bakelite) or plastic? I tried painting plastic once and though I used an adhesive agent it still didn't stick properly.
I appreciate the diversity due to the fact that we fellow Filmwasters are scattered around the world but there're moments when I think how brilliant it would be to live closer by to be able to quickly meet up for things like a "I really need to paint my camera" workshop or for a "Got a hazy (Yashica? ;) ) lens? Here's how to clean it!" workshop. :)
Once I adjusted the vertical alignment -- focusing at infinity through my apartment window on the the tall clock tower building a little over a mile away -- I noticed the more important horizontal alignment was ever so slightly off so adjusted that too. I still think I might come back and adjust the vertical to be off a bit... But it's very simple and easy so we'll see.
Looks like you've been busy. :)
I'm currently working on a second birdhouse camera. I want to try and do some solargraphs, so I thought hiding the cameras as birdhouses could be the best camouflage there is.
I mage one in bright red for the backyard. I'm wondering if I should go full camo for the second one as I want to put it in a public park?
So the worst thing that can happen is that somebody steals the birdhouse camera I made...
Just hacked something which I hope is worth the effort I put in it.
Years ago I got a Kodak Tourist II folder that was missing both knobs. Since it's a strict 620 camera I just let it gather dust. But last week I decided to modify the interior to take 120 film. A real pain in the *** to do. Kodak really wanted to make sure nobody would do this modification and put in it an insane amount of ribs to prevent it from being done. But they didn't take into account a single guy with a Dremel who wanted to do this really bad!
So I re-made the buttons, modified the drive, hogged-out most of the interior, cleaned the viewfinder and fixed the weird shutter behavior while still maintaining the original aesthetics.
I've been on the lookout for a 50s / 60s fixed lens rangefinder for my grandson's second camera -- his first camera will be an Olympus Trip. He's only 10 months old but I'm going to be prepared!Good thinking! People laughed when I bought my daughter her first bike when she was 6 months old because I came across a very good bike for a fraction of the normal cost for a pre-owned version. Now she's grown out of it and passed it on to her brother and it's still in use. So I solute your preparedness, sir! :)
I would have loved to do that but it was missing so many parts I just figured a full conversion was in order. The winding knob came from an old Polaroid oscilloscope camera and the other knob is actually made from some lamp parts and JB Weld ;D
If you can obtain some 620 spools then you only need to modify the feed side of the Tourist cameras. I also spent much time grinding down the ribs in this camera before it dawned on me I only had to do one side. I develop my own film so spools are just reused.
Here's another contraption.Ye gods, Francois, that's a strange looking beastie! Well done for building it. Can't wait to see some shots from it.
It's a shift lens made from an enlarger lens. 75mm f/4.5 with a weird square aperture. It's held with magnets on the special mount I made. It's just too bad it doesn't exactly focus far enough for my taste. But with a small aperture it does reach infinity.
Just spent half the afternoon (well, maybe more than half) fining a badly calibrated Kalart rangefinder on my Crown Graphic. I had been putting it off for over 5 years since it's quite a chore but I'm pretty happy I did it. Not as hard as it seems from the instructions but just a definite pain to do. You just gotta love instructions that require a rubberband to keep the focusing lever on the cam follower ::)
I've recently made a new pinhole camera from a totally knackered Ensign, it's a 6x6 - 6x9 folder, 100mm focal length, 0.3mm pinhole and works out at F/333.............
That is scary, François... :)And the outside isn't half as scary as the inside :)
... Here's an Aki freebie that I thought was quite nice ...
^ It's as though you'd seen a previous repair of mine on a Kowa Six . I didn't just loose the springs , I melted them ! Actually ended up making springs from a box of scrap camera parts . I should see if I can find any pics from that exercise in patience :) . PeterHow in the world did you manage to melt a spring? :o
I've got a few cameras that need new coverings... Maybe I should start thinking about getting this done.
This is a picture of the repair I had to do to get the Kowa operational again . Pretty much the single most common source of camera failure . The single tooth on the main wind mechanism fails and I decided to use the carbide tooth from a wood saw blade and actually brazed it in place with an oxy-acetylene torch . Got a bit hot and the wiggly home made spring is what I came up with , still works fine . Words of encouragement from Ross Yerkes kept me from tossing the whole camera . And that's how I melted a spring ::). Peter
Just do a reverse collimation. It's really easy to do and costs less than a roll of film.
That's how I always adjust the focus on my cameras.
My usual setup involves a 35mm SLR witn a 210 zoom
The more magnification the viewing camera has, the more precise you can be with the collimation.
That's why I only work on the most basic lenses. I tried taking a zoom lens apart once, it's in a landfill somewhere now.
Now if I want to work on small fiddly camera stuff I wear +2.5 readers at leastI did resort to using some 1.25 readers for those annoyingly small springs.
Does this count?
Having lots of time on my hands, I'm getting things done I would probably never have got around to otherwise. So a new tool rack appeared today. Just for my more frequently used camera repair tools that, up until now, have lived loose on my desk. The wood was from a long since gone garden table.
Wow!
What a change!
I had a filter that had one of those oily residues that even 90% isopropyl couldn't clean. I decided to hit it with some acetone on a lens cleaning paper and it came out the cleanest I've ever seen without any effort. It could be the solution for that mirror.
Shed cameras really are the worst (or nearly). Btw Peter, someone was asking me about repairs to the older Contax rangefinder recently. Do you overhaul those as well?
Great job, Bryan! Can you elaborate how exactly you went about painting it? Do you use a primer? Do you spray paint? I think that the boxes look brilliant!
Pretty good for a first try.
I do agree that the fabric looks like it's a bit on the thick side though.
But with fabric stores still closed, you just make do with what you've got.
Funny because I'd be afraid that the paint would add too much thickness.
But I guess that if you go lightly with a spray can it could just fill the voids.
Excellent indeed! But it looks a bit scary, did you have a repair manual or did you just make notes as you went along? I have a Petri 7S that could need the same treatment, one day I might pull myself together and get it done.No manual. All the fixed lens rangefinders are generally the same construction. As long as to take a few pictures along the way. I did have an issue where all the shutter leaves just fell out but I found a picture of how they went back. Usually you can find someone who's done it before.
Good work.
Could this have been done without removing the casing?
I've got to cla my Grandpa's 1C and it scares me a bit since I never had great success repairing SLR's. Leaf shutters I'm ok with, lenses I'm ok with too, but this seems to be another ball game.
Out of curiosity, I also have an RZ67 that has a lot of peeling rubber. Does anyone have any ideas on how to restore it to cosmetic glory? It doesn't seem like there's anyone out there selling a prefab replacement, but I'm willing to make my own now that I'm stuck at home.
That's pretty neat.
Do you have white filament?
If you do you need to print at least one lithophane :)
I just found something really neat on Thingiverse that I printed using the 3D printer mom got me for Xmas.
They are film speed reminders that fit on the hotshoe.
Apart from the design being a bit too big (I had to scale down to 94%), it looks pretty good and should be really handy.
Here's the link for the project: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3119153 (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3119153)
I got an Ender 3 Pro.
I put a lot of mods on it. Some were hand printed and other ones bought. I upgraded the springs on the bed, put in an adapter for a regular sized SD card and added an Octoprint server.
You're welcome.
For the pinhole camera, you might want to take a look at the Pinh5ad camera by schlem on thingiverse. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:143882 (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:143882)
It's got some neat hooks for the rubber bands.
What program do you use for modeling?
I use FreeCAD. It's very powerful. It does have a few quirks but once you get used to it it's pretty darn good.
And best of all it plays nice with Inkscape for some things.
Nice job! Does that mean that you now have a Yashica FX3 with a Nikon Mount? :)
Sorry, I might have misunderstood, but where did the C/Y mount come from?
Is that just a straight swap or did you have to do any modifications? The housings look almost identical.
Well... I guess this is what happens when you apply the following formula:
Boredom + Lust for a new camera + 3D printer = Over-engineered madness
So, I present to you a cardboard tube can pinhole camera. With two shutters (one on the side and one on top) for two types of anamorphosis, a custom press-on lid and a built-in Manfrotto compatible tripod mount.
It's not fully completed as I still need to make some hold-downs for the lid, just in case.
Did I need to build it? Not really. Did I need another camera? Not really. Is it practical? Not the slightest.
Well... I guess this is what happens when you apply the following formula:
Boredom + Lust for a new camera + 3D printer = Over-engineered madness
So, I present to you a cardboard tube can pinhole camera. With two shutters (one on the side and one on top) for two types of anamorphosis, a custom press-on lid and a built-in Manfrotto compatible tripod mount.
It's not fully completed as I still need to make some hold-downs for the lid, just in case.
Did I need to build it? Not really. Did I need another camera? Not really. Is it practical? Not the slightest.
I have a similar frame counter problem on my old FR.
There is a small nylon gear inside that is cracked and won't hold tight against a shaft anymore.
I've tried pretty much every type of glue I can get my hands on but never managed to get gear to stick together properly...
It's split on one side. I find it pretty sad in a sense because it was my first SLR camera.
I've tried pretty much every type of glue I can get my hands on but never managed to get gear to stick together properly...
It's split on one side. I find it pretty sad in a sense because it was my first SLR camera.
Just made something that's so simple I don't know why nobody ever thought of it!
For years I've been drooling over the nice Tiffen Black Pro Mist filters, ...
What do you think?
Could the distance scale be part of a parallax compensation mechanism?
I know my old Crown Graphic has one on the eyepiece.
Also, maybe the stops are adjustable?
I don't know about the exact size of the plate holders on this one but for making a groundglass holder you might want to consider using a filmpack adapter. If it fits, those are super cheap as there hasn't been any film made for them in the last 60 years.
Else, 3D printing always saves the day ;)
If you're still near Albuquerque, you can get in touch with Ethan at Cameradactyl. He runs a printing farm and he's pretty good with stuff like that. He already knows Becky, Joe Van Cleave and me, so you shouldn't have any problems getting him to either print or laser cut something.
I have a film pack holder coming, that’s what I plan on using.
That pretty much answers your question I think. One infinity stop will likely be for using a sheet film holder, and the other for a roll film holder. You should be able to test this by comparing the distance between the rear of the body and your ground glass, and the rear of the body and the film position in the RFH.
This so reminds me of my first DIY 4x5 enlarger!
I used a Burke & James monorail and a hand made light box...
To use the longer lenses you will want to make a lens cone to get the glass further away from the negatives. That's the way they do it on my Omega D-II.
For the light you might want to look into an LED panel or something like that. But be aware that the paper relies on an incandescent bulb for the grade calibration. So drifting from that will mess things up. In my enlargers I use some warm white 100w equivalent LED's and have had no problems so far.
Nikon lenses are definitely not obvious when it comes to fixing them.
I once repaired a 50/1.8 and it threw me a few surprises.
But luckily I didn't have to dismantle the aperture for cleaning.
I just hope you didn't encounter their fabled glued on screws... These are a real pain.
Wait, that's actually a 135/3.5, right?
That said, I'd love to see a 13.5 in any format ;D
francois: how did you get on with the minox stuff? You got me curious :)Yesterday I developed the only roll I had that was taken by my grandfather. Sad news, the film was fogged beyond the point of no return.
Nice job on the mold, looks like the lensboard came out perfect.
Just an excuse to bump the thread...
I finished this GX today (finally) with some laser-cut fabric covers. Something I'm experimenting with. I modified it to use current lithium batteries instead of the obsolete ones it was made for. It has a 40/1.7 lens which I've heard good things about. I just need to get a film in it now.
That's pretty much what I can see from that. My Electro35G uses a round battery that's about the size of a CR123A, so I was really puzzled at how you could get 5.6v out of one of those.
I'm starting to wonder if there isn't a better way on mine to make a good mod other than using a rare 6v alkaline...
I could 3D print a sleeve to hold them.It won't. I wrote this sometime ago. Might be worth a read.
I just hope that the voltage won't affect the exposure meter too much...
I'm going to check it out. Thanks!I could 3D print a sleeve to hold them.It won't. I wrote this sometime ago. Might be worth a read.
I just hope that the voltage won't affect the exposure meter too much...
https://www.contax139.co.uk/replacement-battery-for-yashica-electro-35-series (https://www.contax139.co.uk/replacement-battery-for-yashica-electro-35-series)
I checked it out last night and I'm starting to wonder if replacing the lamps by LEDs would be a good idea?I could 3D print a sleeve to hold them.It won't. I wrote this sometime ago. Might be worth a read.
I just hope that the voltage won't affect the exposure meter too much...
https://www.contax139.co.uk/replacement-battery-for-yashica-electro-35-series (https://www.contax139.co.uk/replacement-battery-for-yashica-electro-35-series)
That would reduce the drain on the batteries and make them last longer but wouldn't have any effect on the voltage during exposure as the lamps are off during the exposure.I checked it out last night and I'm starting to wonder if replacing the lamps by LEDs would be a good idea?I could 3D print a sleeve to hold them.It won't. I wrote this sometime ago. Might be worth a read.
I just hope that the voltage won't affect the exposure meter too much...
https://www.contax139.co.uk/replacement-battery-for-yashica-electro-35-series (https://www.contax139.co.uk/replacement-battery-for-yashica-electro-35-series)
Do you think it's worth the hassle?Is what worth the hassle? Changing the lamps to LEDs? No, not in my opinion. The early Electros are usable with a modern 6V battery and an adapter. The battery check light may not work and the exposure lamps may be dim but they are usable. Just use it.
Finally I won!
This project has been kicking my butt in every imaginable way. Finicky fit, blind measurements, design mistakes and everything in between.
But now, it's finally over!
I've had this Burke & James Grover 4x5 for over 20 years. When I got it, it was in really bad shape. At some point it had been set on fire (there was a spot of charred paint), the bellows looked like they had been chewed by a rottweiler, it was missing some parts. But on the up side the lens on it was good. So I moved the optics to a hand made Graflex lens board. But I just couldn't leave a broken camera alone, so I restored it. But I was still missing a lens. So I decided to make an adapter.
So, I can now mount those Graflex lens boards on it. It took me 5 versions of the frame to get it right... a far cry from my usual "get it done in 3 or less" mode of operation.
Here are the photos.
Looks pretty good.The Polyurethane resin I'm using is quite thin right after it's mixed so bubbles aren't a problem. You have to work quickly, it hardens kind of fast. The mold is quite tight where the lip of the lens board is so I inject the resin into those areas with a Pipette. Then I massage the mold a little to force any air out. The only place I really had problems with bubbles was when I made the mold. The silicone material is thick and it has to be mixed thoroughly, hard not to make bubbles. One way to do away with that is to put it in a vacuum chamber after pouring the mold. I didn't have that so I do get a few bumps from those bubbles, they are easy to cut off with a razor knife.
You don't have problems with air bubbles when doing the epoxy?
I know that model makers often use pressure to shrink bubbles instead of out-gasing them using a vacuum. I figure it's something that would be fairly easy to do using an old pressure cooker and a compressor. But I don't know how well it would work with silicone.Looks pretty good.The Polyurethane resin I'm using is quite thin right after it's mixed so bubbles aren't a problem. You have to work quickly, it hardens kind of fast. The mold is quite tight where the lip of the lens board is so I inject the resin into those areas with a Pipette. Then I massage the mold a little to force any air out. The only place I really had problems with bubbles was when I made the mold. The silicone material is thick and it has to be mixed thoroughly, hard not to make bubbles. One way to do away with that is to put it in a vacuum chamber after pouring the mold. I didn't have that so I do get a few bumps from those bubbles, they are easy to cut off with a razor knife.
You don't have problems with air bubbles when doing the epoxy?
Nice job Bryan, those look great !! :)I've had that lens sitting in a drawer for years and have never used it. I don't even know what camera it came from. Doing a little searching I think it was from a No. 3A Autographic Pocket Kodak which had a 3-1/4" by 5-1/2" film format. From what I have read it's a great lens and should be able to cover up to 5X7. It's often used on 4X5. I'm looking forward to giving it a try.
How do you like the old Kodak lens? I have one of those and Ive always wondered how it would perform on 4x5. :o
Just a thought....But one other thing you may want to try for mold making is "Dental Lab Stone". Ive used it on several mold projects and its useful stuff. Amazon even sells it... ;D
I just made myself a low tech UV light box. It is a crude design and took less than half an hour to put together with a Eurobox and some cable binders, but it does the job. The first test cyanotype looks good, only a stop overexposed.
What light source are you using? Looks like LEDs?
Packard shutters are really nice for those applications.
But a bit out of my budget... but I plan on eventually making this instead (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6033871).
I’m sure my box could have been 3D printed but I’m still working in the Stone Age.Don't worry about that, lots of things are more rapidly done in wood than 3D printed plastic.
In the spirit of DIY,Nice work, it looks great! We have a lot of madrone trees up here in Washington. It’s a very hard and dense wood. If you pick up a log you’ll swear it was made of lead. It’s the best firewood, high BTU value and burns for a long time.
Last year we had a pretty hard winter and a number of trees fell. So not wanting to let good lumber go to waste. I decided to use some Madrone wood, a hardwood common here in California.
This January I came across an old Tachihara 6"x10" format back and film holders on the bay. My thought was to adapt it to fit my old 8x10 view camera, and try out this odd...panoramic format. :o
For anyone that is interested.....Below is a link to a folder on my flickr page...since when ever I try to resize stuff for here, it looks like a hot mess! ;D
https://www.flickr.com/photos/100047767@N04/albums/72177720310559844 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/100047767@N04/albums/72177720310559844)
Cheers,
Jonathan