Author Topic: Bleach Washed Fuji 100B (Read 13999 times)

Mojave · « **on:** August 26, 2010, 03:31:33 AM »

Found this online the other day and was just wondering if anybody has tried it. I did, today, but the really orange parts of the negative look solarized. Not that that is a bad thing, but I might not want it in every situation.

Here is the link to the steps on flickr:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/pacorocha/sets/72157619006319867/with/3584488369/

I didnt use the fixer like they did for the image I've posted here but Im going to try it on the next test, even though its totally dry. With this image, I followed the Filmwasters way of treating the Fuji 100C. For the most part, I like this. Again, I can see where this technique could work for me. What I dont like is how washed out it looks on the wall behind the headboard. I can barely see the lamp on the left.

Anyway, Im curious to hear what you all have to say. I really want to figure this out.

Thank you!!!

Mojave · « **Reply #1 on:** August 26, 2010, 02:16:51 PM »

I used the fixer and I dont like what that did so I think I'll leave that part out.

Has anybody else tried this technique with the 100b?

Ed Wenn · « **Reply #2 on:** August 26, 2010, 05:22:49 PM »

Hiya, there are quite a few posts on this forum about reclaiming a neg from the Fujifilm peel apart instant films. We even did a video podcast tutorial on it (although the process I use now is different from the one in the video)

http://www.filmwasters.com/forum/index.php?topic=3167.0

http://www.filmwasters.com/forum/index.php?topic=3025.0

http://www.filmwasters.com/forum/index.php?topic=2997.0

You may also want to check Bob Crowley's excellent http://new55project.blogspot.com/ blog which has lots of info on this process. It's a load of fun though isn't it!?

Good to have another 'fujineg' person on Filmwasters.

Mojave · « **Reply #3 on:** August 26, 2010, 06:10:57 PM »

Thank you so much Ed. I did see that video and thats what got me started down this path. Its excellent and its what I used for this negative.

What I was looking for more specifically was if anybody had more experience with the 100B film and not being able to easily convert the negative into a positive image. Sorry, I should have been more clear there.

As a side note, I did do searches here on the site and rather enjoyed the result I got searching for fujinegs.

Thank you again!

Ed Wenn · « **Reply #4 on:** August 27, 2010, 12:11:05 PM »

Hiya, sorry for missing the salient points of your first post. Glad the tutorial was helpful....like anything we do, it's just a starting point and the feedback we get and modifications that intrepid explorers such as yourself come up are all grist for the mill.

I've recently bought a few packs of the larger size b/w Fujifilm instant peel apart and will defintely be getting a neg from them, but so far I've not tried the process other than with the colour film....in fact I have a load of negs to reclaim this weekend from my recent holiday in Cornwall.

Good luck with the bleaching and keep posting your progress here at Filmwasters.

Mojave · « **Reply #5 on:** August 27, 2010, 02:02:51 PM »

Thanks again Ed. Im looking forward to seeing what you get. Im going to get getting some pix this weekend and will try the process again myself and will post the results here.

Mojave · « **Reply #6 on:** August 27, 2010, 07:43:42 PM »

Ok, I am definitely NOT liking the presoak in the cold water first. Its very unpredictable for me. Im probably doing it wrong but I cant get an even clearing of the white stuff off the emulsion side. Too much of the emulsion gets messed with. So, Im going to skip that part.

I have also figured out a way to better protect the emulsion side. Use duck tape or black tape on both sides of the edge of the negative and stick the sides together. Then tape it down with more tape to the glass. Just gives a little added protection.

Still working on this. Hope to have more examples soon.

Mojave · « **Reply #7 on:** August 28, 2010, 06:22:03 AM »

You all might know this already but I thought I'd post here just in case.

I discovered that the 100C can be soaked and cleaned completely of the emulsion because the negative remains on the film material but for the 100B this isnt the case. The negative is in the emulsion and if you soak it, you lose the negative.

Lesson learned. Not really sure the 100B is going to work out. Bummer. But at least I can convert the color to black and white and it looks pretty good. Well, good is a matter of opinion. Its very grainy and sky in both images came out very choppy, if thats the right word, but I like it. The effect worked for my purposes.

calbisu · « **Reply #8 on:** December 21, 2010, 01:55:14 PM »

oK. I bleached some FUJI FP100b the other day. As I have not found any other post about it I will explain how I did it. I followed the very same steps as I did for the FUJI FP100c, BUT, I found out that when I was removing the goop gently with my finger under cold water (I think it does not matter much if it´s too cold or not) there were TWO goop layers. So I removed the first one and then started to remove the second one; then gessing that I might be destroying the negative I stopped there. So you can see in my first negative that there are three holes - where the second goop layer was removed -. What I do now is to put the negative under the water tab (goop facing up) and let the first goop layer disappear (without touching it, it turns gray and disappears). You will see that it disappears by itself. Caution as the second goop layer it´s very delicate (as it´s soft), but once it dries out its more stable (still delicate). Then I used bleach as usual to remove the other part. When I scan it I do it as a Positive color. With PS I go to black and white adjustment layer and lower the yellow and red at will... So, hope it´s more or less clear. Here three shots. The first one with the holes and two more that are the same with different tone setting. I think the resulting negative has a very wide tonal range!

Ed Wenn · « **Reply #9 on:** December 21, 2010, 09:49:25 PM »

Thanks for the update, Carlos & also for the several initial follow-ups, Mojave.

I too got stuck into reclaiming a neg from the FP-100B and made the same discovery that you guys made. Something along the lines of, "Where the heck did my negative just go to?!" I did end up with one 50% usable neg, but haven't bothered scanning it.

HOWEVER, thanks to Carlos' tip about removing the top layer only by washing it and not touching it, I will definitely give this a go. One question though, I would always take the black backing off with the bleach before trying to wash off the top layer of goop. Is there any reason why you didn't do it this way round?

calbisu · « **Reply #10 on:** December 21, 2010, 11:57:45 PM »

Hi Ed! Well, nop, there's no special reason why I remove the good before I bleach the negative, let me think about any benefits about it..... mmmhh... I cannot find any. Well, if you have removed the goop first then you are able to find out any remainings when you are bleaching the negative, as it is translucent already. But then if you remove the goop first you to have wait for a WHILE till it dries out and you can bleach it.

Mojave · « **Reply #11 on:** December 22, 2010, 05:14:39 AM »

Yeah, thank you so much for the update Carlos! I didnt know how to get the image to come out right after scanning but Im going to try what you did to see if it comes out.

I did happen to notice the two layers of goop but I think I was too rough with mine because I kept losing parts of the second layer. I have several negs to clean up and cant wait to try this again.

Ed Wenn · « **Reply #12 on:** December 22, 2010, 09:51:16 AM »

Yep, you have to be super careful removing the first layer only. It took me three 'test' negs to work this out and then I ran out of raw material (they were the last 3 shots in my pack). Looking forward to trying out the 'no fingers' version of goop removal sometime soon.

calbisu · « **Reply #13 on:** December 22, 2010, 01:15:35 PM »

Two more examples, gritty examples, of course...

Francois · « **Reply #14 on:** December 22, 2010, 04:35:33 PM »

Quote from: calbisu on December 22, 2010, 01:15:35 PM

Two more examples, gritty examples, of course...

Carlos, they're not so gritty... I looked carefully and the grain is barely visible

calbisu · « **Reply #15 on:** December 23, 2010, 12:27:13 AM »

Yes, it's quite possible that I might have been engulfed by the Grittiness itself and not using properly the word

But nowadays everything looks gritty to me

calbisu · « **Reply #16 on:** January 30, 2011, 02:08:22 AM »

Ok, some more info about the Fuji FP100B bleaching process.

I went for shooting yesterday and meanwhile I was shooting 100B with the Polaroid 195 I kept storing them at my bag without ¨opening¨ them. I arrived home with 9 shots ¨unopened¨ and one still at the camera. I ¨opened¨ the 9 pola sheets about 6 hours later than they were fired, plus I extracted the one it was at the camera. As per the developing of the shots I did not notice differences from the ones that I ¨opened¨ 6 hours later from the one I waited the developing proposed time, 30 seconds. just few lines that I am not sure come as results of waiting 6 hours.

The BIG difference is if you are trying to bleach the negatives of the 100B. The one I just took from the camera and developed properly was so easy to remove the 1st layer of goop. I just opened the sheet and place the negative under the tab and the goop was removed almost instantly. Not touching it with the fingers. The ones that had been waiting for 6 hours were not so easy. I guess the goop hardened during the waiting time. So what I did is to place the negative in a bowl with water and waiting around 5 minutes. Then it was easier but still some goop from the 1st layers would not disappear. Specially at the borders, guess it got hard. That´s it, hope it helps.

The same shot, original (which I shot underexposed) the negative and the edited negative (scanned as positive color and then edited with camera raw).

Mojave · « **Reply #17 on:** January 30, 2011, 02:19:31 AM »

Ok, that bleached neg is my favorite of them all!!! If you're out shooting, how do you keep it from drying out without getting too water logged I wonder. There must be a way to do it.

calbisu · « **Reply #18 on:** January 30, 2011, 02:47:14 AM »

I guess I was not very... clear

So you shoot on the field several polas FP100B, you store them unopened. You arrive home. You open them. You soak the negative in water for about 5 minutes. After that you remove first goop with water under the tab wihtout touching it with the finger.

This time I was brief. Remember you can always let the last shot in the camera, so developing will not start until you take it out of the camera.

Mojave · « **Reply #19 on:** January 30, 2011, 03:22:22 AM »

Oh, I get it. I think. So you dont peel them apart. They wont over develop? I've heard here that they self terminate as far as development goes, so then am I right? You dont peel them apart until you get home or to some place where you can wash off the goop?

calbisu · « **Reply #20 on:** January 30, 2011, 05:32:15 AM »

You are very right. As per the 100b and 100c I have not noticed overdevelopment for not peeling them apart in due time. The 3000b, that´s another thing.

Ed Wenn · « **Reply #21 on:** January 30, 2011, 09:07:03 AM »

I've said it here before several tens of times, but I will say it again. I have not had any over development from any Fuji instant film, not from Polacolor 125i. Ever. Have left some of them for several hours before peeling.

Interesting about the different goop behaviour, though, Carlos. Thanks for the tip.

Mojave · « **Reply #22 on:** January 30, 2011, 06:46:45 PM »

So then it was Ed I heard this from.

Miller · « **Reply #23 on:** January 30, 2011, 06:59:51 PM »

Ed

While it does self terminate... I have found at times if not peeled immediately, that some of the goop will leave a residue on the picture image. This may be as the film has been stored badly (I normally buy expired).... For that reason I am always anxious about peeling 100b at a later time.

Anyway, that aside I have had no problems doing 100b negs.. Same process and wash the goop away in running cold water after removing from the glass (I have a scanner coming next week so should be able to show my results soon)...

Mojave, I use waterproof duct tape so no problemo on that front. I'm just sparing with thick bleach as it is easier to control and agitate evenly...

Rgds

Mlr

moominsean · « **Reply #24 on:** January 30, 2011, 08:23:18 PM »

the only film i've seen overdevelop is type 689. it even keeps developing after peeled. gets darker for awhile until it dries. 664 needs to be peeled in a timely fashion because it dries and the paper bubbles.

Ed Wenn · « **Reply #25 on:** January 30, 2011, 10:35:57 PM »

Miller: Wise words and duly noted. I've never had that issue myself (I also only really buy expired film), but I can see it's just a matter of time.

Sean: So maybe Type 689 was the inspiration for TIP all along, not the integral stuff they're currently making?

I actually managed 45 minutes to myself late this sunny afternoon and took a stroll round the manor with my Land Cam and some 125i. Just about to dip a couple of prints in coffee...the way you do.

Miller · « **Reply #26 on:** February 05, 2011, 08:58:02 PM »

Here is a scan at last... Personally I like the 'Greyscale' look without much playing about in P/Shop..

Mojave · « **Reply #27 on:** February 06, 2011, 04:58:20 PM »

That looks very nice Miller! Is the color Fuji or B&W?

Miller · « **Reply #28 on:** February 06, 2011, 10:41:38 PM »

Mojave

It's 100-B b/w...

Mlr

Mojave · « **Reply #29 on:** February 06, 2011, 10:48:16 PM »

I couldnt figure out how to get my negative to convert properly to positive with the black and white negative. Got any tips?

calbisu · « **Reply #30 on:** February 07, 2011, 01:12:03 PM »

Mojave; About converting the negative. First able I used to scan the negative and then in PS in Layer I would invert. But now I scan as Positive color and then I edit it, or you can even scan it in POsitive color and in grey scale. All in the scanner.

Miller; Pesonally I do not edit with the POsitive polaroids, just scan them. Do not ask me why but I feel it´s not OK to play with the POsitive. But the negative to me is as just any other negative. Like to play with it and it´s what I like about the Fuji film. Just an opinion of course.

Tkmedia; like very much the composition of your goop

One more bleached 100b love this film!

Miller · « **Reply #31 on:** February 07, 2011, 01:47:26 PM »

@ Calbisu : Just like yourself I feel the neg can be 'tweaked' with to get the desired result... Methinks my comment came across wrong and nice 'blacks' in your shot.

@ Mojave : I scan as a colour negative and reverse to positive in my limited P/S but then I use a Canon scanner and software so hey, who knows try both ways… I've also not had much time to play around with it but finding sometimes that some parts of the image give a cool solarisation.

Rgds

Mlr

Mojave · « **Reply #32 on:** February 07, 2011, 05:08:17 PM »

Thank you so much Carlos and Miller!!! I will play around with it more and see what I get. I too like that accidental solarization look, like I got with the pillows, but every negative I made after that was too much on the negative side than on the positive side.

Im excited now! Cant wait to see what happens.

tkmedia · « **Reply #33 on:** February 07, 2011, 07:48:42 PM »

thanks. I didnt get everything I wanted in the frame but I was standing in the middle of the street so had to hurry. I wanted carny street sign and the "rooms water hot and cold" on the wall to show up. oh well. That was just the positive print, it was just in re to not peeling in the field. I have a lot of goop on both sides, the neg and print. I got the same amount on 100b.

calbisu · « **Reply #34 on:** April 07, 2011, 08:42:51 AM »

Quote from: Miller on January 30, 2011, 06:59:51 PM

Ed

While it does self terminate... I have found at times if not peeled immediately, that some of the goop will leave a residue on the picture image. This may be as the film has been stored badly (I normally buy expired).... For that reason I am always anxious about peeling 100b at a later time.

Miller, Hi! Yes, this is happening to me lately with 100b and 3000b, with a recent lot of 100b the amount of goop that adheres to the picture is dramatic (and could no use anymore the "negative"). With the 3000b also there was some goop residue adhered to the picture but I could remove it by placing the Polaroid under the water for a while

and removing it gently with the fingers

Later on the POlaroid would look just normal

calbisu · « **Reply #35 on:** April 18, 2011, 02:34:51 PM »

Just couple of examples of original-bleached polaroids fuji FP100b

The volkswagen original was not underexposed and still a fair bleached negative resulted, as the original was not too shiny.

The lady with the window was deliberately underexposed and the bleached original was able to bring out much of what was dark in the original one.